Cheolwon and around the DMZ

Cheolwon, a largely clean and still somewhat preserved area in the DMZ between North and South Korea, is full of history as well as being a site for the winter crane migration. In the past couple of years I've tried twice to get on this tour and both times it was cancelled, all because of war games between the divided countries. This year the RAS was again worried that because of the escalated military difficulties between the North and the South the tour would have to be cancelled yet again, but wonderfully it wasn't.

 

The tour started out at the Seung-il Bridge said to have been designed by Kim Myeong-yeo, who also designed the chimneys of the Jinnampo smelter during the era of Japanese colonial rule. Prior to the Korean War the bridge was half-built by the North Korean Communist regime. (According to the diary of James Patterson when he was 1st Lieutenant of the US 79th Engineering Battalion in Korea in 1952, the bridge was first commenced by the Japanese). In any regard, construction was suspended during the Korea War, and after the war, South Korea continued the construction but using South Korean construction techniques, resulting in some varying building characteristics, e.g. the guardrails being further spaced and looking less aesthetic as well as the span of arches which apparently weren't intended by the original builders.

 

To spare the on-going wear and tear on the bridge, the iron bridge (Hantan Grand Bridge) to the left was built and the historical Seung-il Bridge now stands as a marker of two countries not unified but nevertheless which worked to connect opposing sides for whatever reason. Vehicular traffic ceased to cross the Seung-il Bridge on Aug 11, 1999, but walkers are encouraged to step out and across.

 

The Seung-il Bridge has a romantic story behind it, which may be but probably isn't true. The name Seung-il supposedly derived from parts of the names of the South Korean president, Lee SYNG (Seung) Man and the North Korean great leader Kim IL Sung, the leaders of the South and North Korea during the Korean War. Romantic sounding, but very unlikely to be true.

Of course I lost my notes, and so don't have the name of this valley. However, this valley has been likened by South Koreans to the American Grand Canyon ..... hm, I see little likeness.

Check points are established at key spots and all vehicles wishing to cross over into the DMZ area must stop and relate their purpose  length of stay, of course keeping within the margins of the gate curfew (I think they still exist). This area is less regulated than some because the Cheolwon area is not a standard tour destination.

 

Beyond the DMZ security checkpoint is North Korean infiltration tunnel #2. This was my first time to come to this particular infiltration tunnel. Most tours and visitors are directed to the more popular tunnel #3 that is wider and even now has a monorail for part of the distance. No such conveniences for tunnel #2. Even hard hats are required for any person entering the tunnel, but measure is taken in all of the infiltration tunnels, but very necessary here because the majority of the way down, most of us had to hunch forward so as not to hit our heads on the jagged roof of the blasted tunnel.

 

Tunnel #2 is located 106km north of Seoul. It was discovered Mar 24, 1975 after an arduous period of excavation work, which began after two soldiers of the Cheongseong (Blue Star) Unit reported hearing explosions during their sentry duty on November 20, 1973. This was the second infiltration tunnel discovered (four total have been discovered). Through this tunnel the North Koreans had the capabilities to invade the South with 16,000 armed men per hour, progressing in battle formation of double or triple columns. During the search for this tunnel, Sergeant Kim Hoyoung and seven other soldiers were killed by land mine explosions and booby traps installed by North Koreans at the interruption wall.

"It appears that North Korea built this infiltration tunnel to infiltrate and harass the South Korean rear line in the event of military emergency, so that they could achieve their ultimate goal of communizing the South by deactivating our defenses. This infiltration tunnel, which arouses our attention" and which tells us the reality is "North Korea has never relented in its absurd ambition for the communizing of the South. This serves us a reminder that we must give our full attention to the defense of our country until the Korean peninsula is reunified into a free and democratic country." [Transcribed from the sign posted outside tunnel #2. If you ask me, this smacks very much of self-righteous propaganda.]

We're not supposed to take pictures inside the tunnel or I would have taken pictures of the sign reading "Land Mine" or the large bell near this sign at the end that, in case of alarm, a person at the bottom could ring the bell for help. Nothing like 'sounding the alarm', but I think the person ringing that huge bell down here would go deaf with the echoes in the closeness of the shaft. In any regard, I just had to take a pict of the very end of the tunnel where visitors were permitted to go, because the sign says it all, "Freedom is not free!"

These are liquors from around or just after the Korean War. I can't remember the proof on these bottles
but they are extremely high proof alcohols!!!

A train that was bombed to hell and back during the Korean War.
It was transported here as a memory to the tragedy that the war created.

One of the most significant buildings in this area of the DMZ. Police headquarters was located next to it but was completely flattened and destroyed. This soviet built building never sustained any large direct hits and with its tough soviet construction was the only building left after the war still standing. The walls are now supported and buttressed from within to keep them from collapsing inward and some additional support has been added.

Obviously this place was shelled with bullets and a lot of power ... it's an amazing testimony to luck
and good construction that it still stands.



The migrating cranes! Oddly, they were almost always grouped in trios, at least during this season.
Someone on the tour said that there are some birds that pair and a third adult bird that looks after the young.
Hm, something to look into for this particular specie.
Photographer: Matt in Gusts of Popular Feeling

A very small deer unique to Korea ... And what an incredible running gait it had, flinging its hind legs high into the air and putting a large arch in its back with every leap! It was gorgeous to see!
Photographer: Matt in Gusts of Popular Feeling

Matt, blogger of Gusts of Popular Feeling, shared this map of the most important sites we visited on our RAS tour.
 It took him quite a while to research the location of these spots, and double big kudos to him for willingly
sharing his work as well as his other wonderful picts as my camera finished dying!

Crusader for Korea: Homer B. Hulbert

Homer B. Hulbert (1863-1949)

·         Born in New Haven, Vermont in 1863

·         Attended Middlebury High School, St Johnsbury Academy, Dartmouth (1884) and Union Theological Seminary (2 years) before leaving for Korea in 1886

·         Parents:

o   Father – Protestant Minister, President of Middlebury College

o   Mother – Great grand-daughter of the founder of Dartmouth

·         Family spirit – Christianity/Puritanism

·         Family precept: “Character is more fundamental than victory”

·         Character: adventurous; passionate; liked reading, music, tennis

Korea – U.S. Encounter in the 19^th Century (background information)

·         1866 (Jun) – The U.S. ship ‘Surprise’ wrecked and landed at SeonCheonPo, PyongAnNamDo, and returned safely

·         1866 (Aug) – The U.S. ship ‘General Sherman’ anchored at DaeDongGang, PyongYang, and demanded the opening of Korea. The ship was burned and sunk; all on board were killed

·         1866 (Dec) - Adminiral Shufeldt dispatched to investigate the ‘General Sherman’ case

·         1875 (Jun) - U.S. navy warship anchored off GangHwaDo to retaliate, and again demanded the opening of Korea. Hundreds of Koreans were killed vs. 1 U.S. soldier

·         1880 - U.S. dispatched Admiral Shufeldt to negotiate with the Korean gov’t for diplomatic ties

·         1882 (May 22) - ‘Treaty between U.S. and Korea’ signed at JeMulPo (Incheon), credited to Admiral Shufeldt, Chester Arthur and 21^st U.S. President

·         1883 (May)-  Lucius Foote, U.S. Minister to legation in Seoul, arrived in Korea

·         1884 - The delegation returned and recommended modern schools/education; King GoJong approved

·         1885 - First protestant missionaries arrived (Underwood, Appenzeller)

YukYoungGongWon (Royal College) was opened

·         1^st Korea  - U.S. enlightenment project was conceptualized, and so 3 teachers were to be brought from the U.S. for creating the American style school

·         U.S. education commissioner contacted Hulbert’s father, and Hulbert volunteered to go to Korea, but he had to wait for 2 years

·         Hulbert arrived at JeMulPo (Incheon) on July 4, 1886

·         The YukYoungGongWon (Royal College) was established in Sept 1886 with 35 elite students

Hulbert’s first 5 years (1886-1891) in Korea

·         Devoted to teaching and studying Korean/Korea

·         Fascinated by Korean history/cultural heritage

·         Mastered Korean (could write and read in 4 days)

·         Published ‘SaMinPilJi’ (Knowledge Necessary to All), first textbook in Korean in 1890, which is currently being registered as a Korean National Treasure

·         Laid the foundation for western-style school under GoJong’s strong patronage

·         Built trust with GoJong

 

Speaker Mr. DongJin Kim, holding a copy of Hulbert's 사민필지 (Knowledge Necessary to All),
which is now being registered as one of Korea's National Treasures  

Returned to America, then back to Korea

·         1891 – Contract terminated

·         1892 – Back to America via Europe

·         1892 Principal of Putnam Military School, Zanesville, Ohio

·         1893 – Returned to Korea as a Methodist Missionary to take charge of the ‘Trilingual Press’ and Baldwin (DongDaeNum) Church

Pioneer of Modern Education

·         1897-1900 – Principal, HanSeong Teacher’s College and Educational Advisor to the Korean Gov’t

·         1900-1905 – Instructor, National Middle School (currently GyeongGi High School)

·         Introduction of American-style education system

·         Establishment of textbook system with his own self-created textbook series ‘ChoHakJiJi”

·         Instilled Koreans with the importance of education “Education is only means for civilization and to win against Japan”

·         Mrs. Hulbert, principal of foreign school and taught at Ehwa

·         His 5 Children – all born in Seoul:  Helen (1891), Madeleine (1894), Sheldon (1895), William (1897), and Leonard (1901)

Hulbert, the Advocate of Korean Alphabet

·         He made the first Korean textbook

·         He wrote the first thesis on HanGeul (Korean Alphabet), Jan 1892

·         He was the first founder of the excellence of HanGeul as the most scientific language with its simplicity and phonetic power. Compared with 200 letters [sic] and concluded to be “certainly one of the finest alphabets in existence.” Contributed numerous theses on the excellence of Hangeul to international papers.

·         Strong campaign for usage of HanGeul in Korea. “HanGeul must bring emancipation from illiteracy in Korea.”

·         Linguist who studied spoken Korea. Contributed to Annual Report of Smithsonian Institution in 1903 with conclusion of “Korean surpasses English as a medium for public speaking.”

 True Missionary

·         Mediator between Methodists and Presbyterians as a friend of Underwood and Appenzeller

·         Assisted with the baptismal service for first converts to Protestantism (1887)

·         Established NoRyungJin Church (1906)

·         Chairman of and on the Founding Committee of the YMCA (1903)

·         Supported the poor and sufferers and spoke about true Christianity, “If missionaries wished to remain in Korea to teach Christianity, what then was Christianity to teach.”

Musician / Journalist / Writer

·         Made up musical notes of Arirang in 1896, the first paper-written music of Korean music, because as he put it, “Arirang equals rice to Koreans.”

·         Co-editor of Korean Repository

·         Founder and editor of Korea Review

·         Editor of English version of “The Independent”, the first newspaper in Korean

·         Writer of “Search for Siberian Klondike” (1903), “Sign of the Jumna” (1903). “The Face in the Mist” (1926), “Omjee the Wizard” (1927), and “The Mummy Bride”

Historian

·         Wrote “The History of Korea” (1905), the first comprehensive Korean history book

·         Wrote “The Passing of Korea” (1906), which is supposedly about all things related to Korea

·         Introduced Korean history, traditions, cultural heritage, etc via international media

·         Challenged on his distortion of Korean history in William Griffis (1843-1928) book “Hermit Nation”

·         Thought the translation of 朝鮮 should have been ‘morning radiance’ or ‘radiant morning’ instead of the rather incorrect but commonly accepted translation of ‘morning calm’

·         Believed that DaeMaDo (to the Japanese, Tsushima) was Korean soil and had been a dependency of Silla

Hidden Hero of Korean Independence

·         Was part of the foreigner night watch for King GoJong in 1895 after assassination of Queen Min

·         Denunciated Japan for colonization attempts via the Korea Review and international papers

·         Was a special envoy of the King KoJong to Theodore Roosevelt in 1905, and gave strong criticism concerning the U.S. policy in the Far East

·         Received a telegram from GoJong who said, “I did not sign the protectorate treaty with Japan.”

·         Special envoy to 9 treaty countries for Hague peace conference in 1907. Addressed in Peace Club in Hague, criticizing Japan

·         Ousted from Korea by Japan … so arrived back in New York in 1907

Rise for Justice

·         Hulbert could not stand the Japanese distortion and oppression. He resisted the Japanese almost to death to help the Japanese (1904-1907) [sic]

·         Koreans sold their property to Hulbert for a penny in order to keep property from being taken by the Japanese. Hulbert returned the property on request.

·         Japanese minister took a stone pagoda, one of Korea’s national treasures, to Japan (1907) and Hulbert demanded the return of the pagoda

Unwavering Fight for Korean Sovereignty

·         Settled in Springfield and fought for Korea via the media

·         Lectured on Korea in U.S. like Chautauqua Circuit [sic], calling for Korean independence

·         Supported Korean delegation for peace conference in Paris in 1919

·         Filed a statement on brutality with the U.S. Senate in 1919

·         Continued working for Korean independence together with Syngman Rhee and Phillip Jaisohn until 1945

Emperor’s Deposit Stolen

·         Emperor KoJong deposited $200,000 at Deutsche Asiatic Bank in 1903

·         Delegated Hulbert to withdraw the money from Deutsche in 1909. Dreamed of assisting independent patriots and Korean slaves in Ukatan, Mexico

·         Deutsche returned money to Japan via German legation in Seoul in 1908without Emperor Kojong knowing

·         U.S. Ambassador to Germany confirmed Deutsche gave money to Japan (1923)

·         Signed with Kimberland for recovery of money … without success

·         Hulbert, providing evidence, left a statement to Syngman Rhee, first Korean president, to demand and recover the money

·         [the presenter Mr. DongJin Kim is now trying to secure that money from Japan]

Return to Korea after 40 yaers (1949)

·         Invited by President Rhee for The Liberation Day (Aug 15^th) celebrations

·         Made the statement, “I would rather be buried in Korea than in Westminster Abbey”

·         Arrival in Incheon on July 29^th, but passed away on Aug 5^th, before the liberation ceremonies but getting his burial wish. He was given a National Funeral Service (SaHoiJang) and buried in YangHwaJin Foreign Cemetery, HapJeongDong, MaPoPu, Seoul

·         Posthumously he was awarded the TaeGeukJang (Country Foundation Medal), Mar 1, 1950, the first foreign (and probably the only) to ever receive the honor

How Some Koreans Viewed Dr. Hulbert

·         “Most reliable person” – Emperor GoJong

·         “True friend of Korea with intelligence and character” – Syngman Rhee

·         “If you are a Korean, you should not forget his contribution to Korea even for a day.” – Ahn JungGeun (1909)

·         “Best icon of human character from educational standpoint.” – KiSeok Kim, Seoul National University

·         “If General MacArthur saved Korea from communism, Dr. Hulbert put JoSeon (Korea) on the list of civilized races.” – HyunBok Lee, Seoul National University

·         “The most respected preceptor of Koreans.” – Joag Taek Kim, Charman of HanGeul [Korean Alphabet] Association

The Hulbert Memorial Society

·         Established in 1999

·         Purpose

o   To research Dr. Hulbert’s footprints

o   To appreciate Dr. Hulbert for his contributions to Korea

o   To preserve and follow Dr. Hulbert’s spirits (justice, peace, humanity, right patriotism)

o   To make Dr. Hulbert’s life a role model for the youth

o   To record Dr. Hulbert’s accomplishments properly in Korean history

In Korea, Book of the Month, August 2010

MY PERSONAL COMMENTS

The presentation was a close-up of Homer Hulbert’s life and contributions in Korea. The man evidently gave a lot of himself to fight not only for education but also for personal freedom and self-advancement in his surrogate country. Mr. DongJin Kim, the presenter, has obviously done a considerable amount of research on Homer Hulbert, but then he would have to as DongJin Kim is the founder and the chairman of the Hulbert Memorial Society.

A note of criticism, however, about the portrayal of Hulbert in Korea. According to the researcher Mr. Kim, Hulbert comes across as unflawed and have an impossibly impeccable education and political career in Korea. For instance, Mr. Kim could not or did not answer the question why Hulbert had to leave Korea after his initial five years of education service was up. ‘Visa was expiring’ doesn’t jive. Many, many people stayed years and years in Korea so why would Hulbert not be extended likewise. Also, there were really flexible rules about visas at that time, especially if Hulbert had his links with the Emperor as was told. 

Korean scholars, according to a contact who had just come from a discussion in Korean on Mr. Kim’s stance on Hulbert, think Mr. DongJin Kim bases a lot of his research on the hypothetical, rather than solid research data, and that DongJin Kim is too emotionally involved in his research to realize his educational dissonance. I have to admit I was impressed with DongJin’s research until he started talking about how Koreans MUST study about Hulbert and North Koreans too MUST acknowledge that Hulbert was an important personage in the educational development of Korea. Mr. DongJin Kim spoke of a trip about 3-4 years ago when it was easier to get into North Korea. On his trip he had spoken to North Korean officials about Hulbert, provided them with data about Hulbert’s historical contributions and that he would be waiting to hear from them. North Korea closed the next year and he still hasn’t heard … but I thought, “Wow, trying to force recognition of an American on the North Koreans, who refer to Americans nonchalantly all the time as “those damned Americans” and who clearly state that they don’t want either Americans or missionaries in their country, and Hulbert was both.” I was a bit shocked at this approach … But as far as the research goes, Mr. DongJin Kim really is incredibly knowledgeable about Homer Hulbert.

Snow in a Manhole!

Sunday night while most of Seoul slept (does a vibrant pulsing city really ever sleep?) the heavy gray clouds overhead burst and dumped several centimeters of snow over the city scape. I woke to scraping shovels outside my window and when I looked out, the peaked undulating rooves were no longer terra cotta or cement gray but sculpted in the white of the socio-economic status removing blanket of snow. Even the electrical lines were fattened by the thick white heavy snow acrobatically vertically positioned.

Having nothing else to do but loaf (since I quit my job and am waiting for my apartment to sell so I can get my money and leave Korea), I decided to walk in the wet, fast-melting fluff turning to soupy mess. My destination was the riverside but first I wanted some rice cake from the nearby open-air market. The rice cake shops were at the opposite end of the meandering market, and while I was sauntering through the market, like in the villa-area where I live, people were out scrapping at the snow and mounding it. But the peculiar thing is that while in the villa-area there are roads to throw the snow on throughout the day and the cars warm wheels from constant friction melts the stuff, in the narrow twisting lanes of the marketplace, there are no passing cars and neither are there many rays of golden sun to warm the shadowed alley, and so where did I see people putting the snow .....

... in a manhole!

and not only were they putting the snow in the manhole, but they were PACKING IT IN! I just can't figure that out. I seriously wonder about the plumbing over there, but I just laughed ... and took pictures. They'll have to tell me later about the plumbing!!!

Korean Beef, American Beef

This amazing article revealing some of the anti-bacterial measures taken to put more meat in the supermarket is  weightily revealing. Here in Korea, Koreans almost unanimously state that their beef is far superior to the known-to-be highly contaminated meat of the U.S. This belief has been perpetuated since the Beef Riots in 2008, and since then, restaurants, school cafeterias and other places post signs near their lunch lines or wherever that the beef served in their restaurant is Australian beef, or even the very expensive Korean beef. Well, this article rather blows the belief that Korean beef is better than U.S. beef.

 

Know What’s in Your Food

By Lee Seung-hee

South Korea is one of the most health-conscious countries in the world. A TV show here, ``Vitamin," which aims to provide nutrition and disease related information, has gained popularity since 2003 and influenced the general population to be more concerned about nutrition and aware of chronic diseases deriving from diet.

``What to eat and what not to eat" is a common interest in everyday Korean life. Once a specific food or a nutrient gains the reputation for being healthy, it really gains in popularity. For example, ox tail soup is known to alleviate arthritis and beef blood soup is good for soothing menstrual cramps.

If a specific food or nutrient gains a negative reputation, it gets stigmatized. For example, it is known that salt is blamed for elevated blood pressure and animal fat for developing plaque in blood vessels.

However, do we know what's in our food besides the nutrients? Did you know that antibiotics are fed to livestock? Korean livestock farmers used 0.91 kilograms of antibiotics for every ton of livestock in 2002 compared to the United States' 0.14 kilograms, according to a report from the Korean Animal Welfare Association (KAWA). Livestock farmers in Korea spend more money than anyone else in the world on feeding antibiotics to their pigs and cows.

Wait. Antibiotics? Are we eating sick animals that have been treated by antibiotics? No. It's a precautionary measure, just in case they get sick. But if they are not sick, why are they being fed with the exact same antibiotics that are used for clinical purposes? It's because it is almost impossible for animals to survive in a crowded farm environment without the antibiotics.

KAWA reported that the unsanitary, enclosed and artificial environment requires farmers to administer various medicines. Therefore, farmers administer antibiotics regularly even when livestock are not ill to prevent animals from getting diseases, because if one pig gets sick it can easily spread to others in the farm, and eventually farmers will lose money. It is much more economical to use antibiotics than to deal with sick or dying farm animals.

Although this model is beneficial for farmers, is it beneficial for people who are eating meat that's been tainted with antibiotics? Farmers administer antibiotics in order to improve the immune system of the animals and to ensure their survival, but the overuse of antibiotics leads to humans' development of resistance to certain diseases.

One solution seems obvious ― could we just keep the animals in a clean, un-crowded environment? In 2000, the article ``Nutrition transition of South Korea," published in the American Journal of Clinical Nutrition by Popkin, B. et al. showed the total daily meat consumption of Koreans has increased from 6.6grams per person in 1969 to 67g in 1995, while daily consumption of cereal and grain products has decreased from 558.8g to 308.9g during the same period. Such a demand has prompted farmers to grow more livestock. Due to limited land for raising livestock, overcrowding animal farms has become a common and accepted practice.

Fortunately, the Korean FDA announced a ban on the seven most frequently-used antibiotics in animal feed. The swift action was spurred by worrisome results in 2008 showing that steady use of antibiotic feed can develop into antibiotic resistance. In addition, the Ministry of Agriculture and Forestry is planning on providing subsidies to environmentally-friendly farmers that don't use antibiotics. Selected farmers will be given cash over a period of three to five years in order to support their environmentally-friendly facilities.

This is a very progressive and advanced decision made by the Korean government at a time when the U.S. continues to struggle with its antibiotic usage in meat production. Such change is desirable, and we do see many antibiotic free meats in U.S. grocery stores.

Unfortunately, in 2008, major Korean grocery stores carried some eggs and chicken that were advertised to be antibiotic free but were found to contain the antibiotic Enrofloxacin. On top of this problem, these ``antibiotic-free" products are sold at 1.5 times the price of regular eggs and chicken. Such a discrepancy results in distrusting consumers, which may damage farmers who really do practice antibiotic free farming.

Even I was cynical about purchasing antibiotic free, organic and environmentally-friendly produce while I was in Korea because I was so skeptical from various news stories that showed untrustworthy, mostly corporate farmers breaking regulations. However, when I buy organic, free range, antibiotic free produce in America, I am confident that it is organic. This is mainly because I know the USDA has a strict certification process and ensures quality through vigorous follow-ups with certified farms.

Therefore, in order to set our tables with reliable and trustworthy foods, we the consumers should be more aware of such consequences and demand more structured and strict regulation among certified antibiotic-free farms.

``Knowing is not enough, we must apply. Willing is not enough, we must do," is a famous and appropriate quote by Johann Wolfgang van Goethe. Now that we know antibiotic usage in livestock can cause harm to humans, the government has ``applied" a ban on the use of some antibiotics in livestock farming and is ``willing" to protect people from potential antibiotic resistance. It is our turn to take another step to ensure these antibiotic-free farms and products meet regulations. Purchase meat from local antibiotic free farms near you, support trustworthy farmers and increase the demand of such products. Don't eat with fear but eat with philosophy ― just know what you're eating and what's in your food.

The writer is a nutritionist and a second-year doctoral student at Johns Hopkins Bloomberg School of Public Health studying Human Nutrition. Her research interest focuses on promoting healthy eating among the low-income urban population in U.S. She can be reached at seulee@jhsph.edu.