Showing posts with label Three Kingdoms Period. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Three Kingdoms Period. Show all posts

Sunday, September 3, 2017

UNESCO tentative list for S. Korea

UNESCO World Heritage Center has a transparent posting of the tentative world heritage sites for each country. As I understand it, much paperwork is needed to even apply to put one's own country's site on the tentative list, and many tentative sites remain just that ... tentative for many years. Here is the tentative list with the most recent updates being January 24, 2017. Note that South Korea added one more (Stone Buddhas and Pagodas at Hwasun Unjusa Temple) since the last updating of the UNESCO website. 

Tentative list for Republic of Korea:

Tentative list for Democratic People's Republic of Korea:


Friday, January 13, 2017

Making Ddeok

Ddeok, Koreans’ favorite traditional food for special occasions

The Ddeok Museum:

Located in the district of Jongno in Seoul, the Ddeok Museum exhibits unique items that show customs of Korea, such as ddeok (Korean rice cake), utensils for making ddeok, and traditional kitchen utensils that are now hardly found even in the countryside of Korea. The museum runs several programs of making traditional Korean food, including ddeok, to enhance the understand of Korean culture.

Ddeok (rice cake) means more than just a cake of rice to Koreans. It is a symbol to remember and celebrate special days of one’s life. 
  • On New Year’s Day, Koreans make ddeokguk (soup with thin slices of rice cake) as they believe they become a year older by eating the dish. 
ddeokguk - "birthday soup"
Also "New Year soup", as the ddeok is sticky
and therefore symbolizes luck "sticking" with you in the New Year.
  • To celebrate the 100th day after birth of a baby, baekseolgi (snow white rice cake), which symbolizes holiness, is placed on the table setting for the ceremony. 
  • On a baby’s 1st birthday, parents usually put susugyeongdan (millet balls rolled in red beans) on the table on the day of celebration. This is based on the traditional belief that the red color of red beans prevents misfortune, and these rice cakes are shared with one’s relatives or neighbors.
Beginning from the 100th day after the birth of a baby, ddeok is used to celebrate important milestones of one’s life: 
  • birthdays including hwangap (the 60th birthday)
  • weddings
  • coming-of-age
  • commemorative rites for the deceased
Ddeok is both a good meal replacement and a snack as it is made with rice, and each pieces is beautifully shaped. The history of ddeok in Korea is long and diverse: Koreans first began making ddeok back in the era of the Three Kingdoms (the 4th - 7th century) of Korea, and there are more than 200 kinds of ddeok.

However, with the introduction of the Western culture in the modern era, ddeok lost its popularity to bread and confectionery of the West. Many Koreans are now more familiar with bread than with ddeok, and they eat ddeok only for the holidays. Instead of making ddeok at home, they usually purchase it for ancestral rites. The Ddeok Museum, located on the 2nd and 3rd floors of the Institute of Traditional Korean Food building, is a private museum dedicated to preserving the tradition of ddeok. Various antiques, such as cooking utensils used to make ddeok and traditional kitchen utensils that used to be owned by the director of the museum are currently exhibited in the museum. The elderly Koreans are often filled with nostalgia when they see the relics displayed in the museum.

On the 2nd floor of the museum, mockups of beautifully shaped ddeok are exhibited by type, season and ingredient. The exhibition hall shows traditional tools used for making ddeok at home, such as the pouring board, the rice-cake mallet, and the large mortar, as well as antique households and mockups related to kimchi. On the 3rd floor, table-settings for various rites of passage from birth to the death of a person and 40 kinds of ingredients of ddeok are exhibited.


In addition to seeing the exhibitions, visitors can wear hanbok (traditional Korean costumes) and make Korean traditional food like osaek-songpyeon (five-colored half-moon rice cake), dasik (Korean tea confectionary), bulgogi (Korean barbecue), and kimchi.


Food explains its country best. Food experience in the Ddeok Museum will give visitors a special opportunity to understand Korea better.
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Information found in the e-book “A guide to Touring Industrial Destinations of Korea”

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Back in late December 2011 in Hoegi-dong, near Cheongryangni, I passed a "modern" method of making rice. Well, compared to the present-day's modern method of using rice powder and large machinery to hydrate and make the powder into soft and chewy "cake" in a self-contained production room, this was pretty old-style. In the kiosk beans were actually being ground to make the bean-cake, much like rice could be ground. The tiny shop had two machines working and baskets and baskets of ground beans ready for grinding further into cakes. Was really fascinating to see! And because the food was freshly ground, the taste was very alive. Unfortunately, shortly after I took these pictures, the shop was replaced by another. Too bad. It's a great loss to older culture to see those more traditional styles of food production disappear.



The shop had so many choices of rice (and bean) cake. I think the beans being ground
were actually the stuffing for some of the rice cake.

Monday, November 21, 2016

Hanji Museum in Wonju

Before paper, man recorded words via various materials in order to convey thoughts. Rocks, turtle shells, bronze ware and iron bowls, jukpyeon made from splitting bamboo, parchment from sheepskin, vellum made of bark, silk fabrics. Prior to the invention of paper, the base materials for writing and painting were difficult to use because of great weight, bulk, complex process in their creation, and huge expense to produce. Once paper was invented, however, knowledge began to spread quickly and unified culture rapidly developed. 

The exact period when paper was introduced to Korea is unknown, and different hypothesis range from 2nd - 7th century AD. What is known, however, and according to a very accurate record "The Chronicles of Japan" is in 1610 Koguryeo monks Damjing and Bupjeong went to Japan and taught how to color and manufacture paper, ink and millstones. This fact reveals that paper-making in Koguryeo had not only been introduced before this time but had developed at least enough to share with another country.


Paradoxically, paper which had been originally created and crafted in China and from there diffused to the West was reintroduced to China, but in an altered form, yangji (Western paper). The West had taken the concept of paper-making and used their own materials, mechanized the process and improved on mass production, and then the methods of Western paper production filtered back to China. The first factory for making yangji was established in China during the early 1800s, in Japan in 1872, and in Korea in March 1901.

When paper-making technique was passed to the West, it was during the reign of Emperor Xuanzong during the Tang Dynasty. In 751, General Gao Xianzhi, a migrant of Koguryeo and who commanded the expeditionary force of Tang, was defeated at the Talas Valley in the norther Tien Shan by the Saracenic army and many of his soldiers were captured. Through this war, the technique of paper-making became known to the Islamic culture. Muslims of the Islamic world had an altered production method; they scooped with their hands and filtered fibers with a net at a paper mill in Samarkand, Pakistan. Their culture likewise developed as, with the wide diffusion of a writing material, they were empowered to make their first Koran. From the Islamic world, the paper-making technique of the Islamic world spread out throughout Europe by the Crusades. 

"Pure-Light Dharani Sutra" which was printed on the Korean traditional mulberry paper, hanji, is the first book known to be printed with woodblocks. It was discovered in the Seokgatap at Bulguksa in Gyeongju. It has contents about long life, realizing wishes and the easy passage to eternity if the scripture is memorized for building the tower. Before the book's discovery, the oldest block printing in the world was "Hyakumantoudarni" of Japan, which was published in 770 AD. 



The Route of Paper Diffusion and Cellulose Variations


(click on images to enlarge)
 Cultures varied in their cellulose mediums

 Suroji translates as 'handmade paper. It is similarly called subuji and suchoji. After the diffusion of paper-making technique throughout the world, each country produced various types of paper from its native plants. 

The Origin of the Word, Hanji

There are many assertions about the origin of the word, hanji, and there are many possibilities. No matter its actual etymology, the present meaning is clear and is being borrowed into other languages to distinguish the unique paper type and quality of traditional Korea.
  1. "Han" is a distinguishing term for things Korean and is used as a contrast word for things Western, "yang". Other words following this distinction pattern are hanbok, hanok, haneui ...
  2. "Han" is also created from the Chinese character "Han" of "Daehanminguk".
  3. The best quality of Korean traditional paper is made in the winter when the fibers are put into "han" water, that is, cold water.
  4. "Hanji" is the specific name for Korean traditional paper while the Chinese traditional paper is huazhi and the Japanese is washi.

The History of Korean Paper, Hanji

Hanji is the Korean paper produced from mulberry bark and made in the traditional way. The technique, imported from China, was independently developed according to the period. Baechuji of Silla, manji of Koryeo and taejangji of Joseon -- all hanji, and it has been proven that hanji can last over one thousand years. It is strong, soft and glossy, and therefore is widely used for calligraphy and painting as well as general folkcrafts.


Three Kingdoms Period

The Three Kingdoms Period is the quickening period of hanji. Paper and the technique for paper-making had already been introduced from China, and during this period Korea imitated Chinese paper, finally producing their own form of paper (hanji) before the end of the period.

Unified Silla

The center for paper-making during Unified Silla was Gyeongju. Most paper produced here was used for necessary government documents. The most representative paper was called baekchuji during this time, and it was known as the best paper inside and outside of Silla.


Koryeo Dynasty

Koryeo Dynasty made huge leaps in the development of hanji. Koreans imported the new technique from China and developed the technique further, producing Koryeo-ji aka manji which was praised as the best by Chinese themselves. During this period, the government branch office, Jiso, was installed in order to stimulate and further paper production. 


"Pure-Light Dharani Sutra", excavated from Seokgatap at Bulguksa is now recognized as the first woodblock book in the world. It was discovered when Seokgatap at Bulguksa was dismantled in 1966. The sutra was wrapped in a silk cloth and put in a gold and bronze container used for crystalized sarira (cremated remains) of Sarigong and placed in the core of the second tier of Seokgatap. With exposure to air, its condition worsened and so underwent restoration and conservation from October 1988 to January 1998. This sutra is the relic which presents the development of techniques for making paper and printing from the early period in Korea.

Joseon Dynasty

The early part of the Joseon Dynasty was the final development period of the paper-making technique and the latter part was a time of stagnation. During the early period, organizations were established to produce paper, and techniques and raw materials were various. In this era the usage of paper became popular among the public. However, in the latter part of Joseon after the Japanese Invasion of 1592, the technique for paper-making declined in the continuous turmoil within the nation. Ultimately, the Buddhist temples began producing their own paper for sutra writings and they assumed the responsibility for paper production in the country.



Memoir of the Pilgrimage to the Five Kingdoms of India (Photographic edition) was the traveling journal written in 727 (26th year of King Seongdeok) by Hyecho, a Silla monk. The journal contains contents about religions, customs and cultures of India and the countries bordering western China. This book was discovered at Qian fo dong of Dunhuang, Gansu province in the northwest of China by the French Orientalist Paul Pelliot in 1908. After being published by Luo Yuzhen of China, it became known to the world.

During Japanese Colonial Period

The department for paper production under the Central Research Laboratory of Japanese Government General in Korea analyzed and valued the raw materials and products of Korea during Japanese rule. During this period, China widely distributed sunset hibiscus seeds and unified the necessary bark fibers for paper-making while Japan standardized size and form of mould-frames introducing the Japanese way. Paper-making by double-mould frame and iron board drying were imported in order to establish the Japanese method of making hand-crafted fibrous paper.

Fifty Years after Liberation

a modern hanbok made out of thick
hanji for the intent of promoting
hanji in the fashion industry
The base of hanji production was fundamentally weakened by the policy of placing priority on industrial development over agricultural security and maintenance. Political, economic and social turmoil ensued after the Korean War and the suppression of the citizens by military government and growing civil unrest. However, samjidak, the mulberry material for export was encouraged as well as the production of handmade paper. Not to mention the fact that, in 1901, the first factory for yangji had been established. This alter paper production required different kinds of machines and even chemicals for paper-making, but the paper-making process was speedier and ultimately cheaper, and it fed the growing public demand for more paper. With the increase in yangji production, Hanji decreased, and quite quickly fell out of common use. 

Because hanji-making is time-consuming and involves intensive labor, only a few artists are presently willing to produce it, and therefore training as a hanji master craftsman is rare. Little demand for hanji does not encourage hanji craftsman either, as a living must be made. In addition, many people are satisfied with the modern "hanji" which uses some of the materials for making the traditional hanji but also uses machines and chemicals. The paper quality is very compromised, but since it is produced much more cheaply, it can likewise be sold more cheaply and therefore this new form of "hanji" outsells the traditional form. 

In recent years (since 2000), the government wanting to promote and stimulate cultural traditions is now encouraging events and the development of new products that utilize hanji, one of Korea's traditional prides.  Hanji cloth to make hanji fashion clothing is one of the latest trends for stimulating hanji production and popularity.

Paper-making Process of Traditional Hanji

Cut, steam, boil, dry, strip paper mulberry bark, boil, beat, mix, scoop ... 








Never Wasteful: The Ancient Way of Recycling Old Hanji

Over the centuries Korea developed various uses of hanji, many of which pertain to craftworks in their daily lives. And when some hanji products became old, they were recycled into new and still useful craftworks, like twisting old hanji products, paper and ratty books into strands for alternative household usage. For example, saekji craftwork was done by accumulating small pieces of paper and making them into colored paper for some decorative purpose. 











Thursday, December 31, 2015

UNESCO Sites in South Korea (2015)

UNESCO World Heritage refers to both cultural and natural heritage sites registered on the World Heritage List. In November 1972, UNESCO adopted the "Convention Concerning the Protection of the World Cultural and Natural Heritage" in the General Conference during its seventeenth session. Under the Convention, the World Heritage committee established a World Heritage List that includes cultural and natural heritage with outstanding value whose conservation is recognized to be in the interest of all humanity. 

As of July 2015, Korea has eleven cultural heritage sites and one natural heritage site.

Apart from this, UNESCO also has a separate program called 'Memory of the World' and 'Intangible Heritage of Humanity'. In Korea, there are seven and eight of them respectively.



World Cultural Heritage Sites

Korea's Cultural Heritage conveys a genuine sentiment of simplicity and peacefulness. The historical background of the heritage is diverse, encompassing the history of Korea from ancient times (Dolmen sites) to the Joseon Dynasty. The sites embody a wide variety of values from tidy and neat artistic spirit to scientific rationality as witnessed in such traditional constructions as a royal palaces or temples. A total of eleven Korean cultural sites are registered on the list of World Cultural Heritage Sites including:
  1. Jongmyo Shrine (1995)
  2. Haeinsa Temple Janggyeong Panjeon, the Depositories for the Tripitaka Koreana Woodblocks (1995)
  3. Seokguram Grotto and Bulguksa Temple (1995)
  4. Hwaseong Fortress (1997)
  5. Changdeokgung Palace Complex (1997)
  6. Gyeongju Historic Areas (2000)
  7. Gochang, Hwasun and Ganghwa Dolmen Sites (2000)
  8. Royal Tombs of the Joseon Dynasty (2009)
  9. Historic Villages of Korea: Hahoe and Yangdong (2010)
  10. Namhansanseong Fortress (2014)
  11. Baekje Historic Areas (2015)

World Natural Heritage Sites

UNESCO chooses to-be World Natural Heritage Sites based on an objective evaluation of historic and academic worth, and then assists in ensuring their preservation. 
  1. The volcanic island of Jeju-do has an outstandingly beautiful natural environment that is significant for its geological features and ecological value. In 2007, Jeju-do Island was listed as a UNESCO Natural Heritage Site under the name of "Jeju Volcanic Island and Lava Tubes". This includes Mount Hallasan Natural Reserve, the Geomunoreum Lava Tube System and Seongsan Ilchulbong Peak. 

Intangible Cultural Heritage

An international assessment committee appointed by the UNESCO Secretary General reviews the list of World Intangible Heritage of Humanity every two years with the mission of safeguarding and protecting such intangible heritage as language, culture, music, dance, games, myths, rituals, customs and handicrafts. A total of eighteen examples of Korean intangible heritage are on the list, including: 
  1. The Royal Ancestral Ritual in the Jongmyo Shrine and its Music (2001)
  2. The Pansori Epic Chant (2003)
  3. The Gangneung Danoje Festival (2005)
  4. Ganggangsullae Dance (2009)
  5. Namsadang-nori Performance (2009)
  6. Yeongsanjae Buddhist Ritual (2009)
  7. Jeju Chilmeoridang-yeongdeung-gut Shaman Ritual (2009)
  8. The Cheoyongmu Dance (2009)
  9. Gagok, lyric song cycles accompanied by an orchestra (2010)
  10. Falconry, a living human heritage (2010)
  11. Daemokjang, traditional wooden architecture (2010)
  12. Weaving of Mosi (fine ramie) in the Hansan region (2011)
  13. Taekkyeon, a traditional Korean martial art (2011)
  14. Jultagi, tightrope walking (2011)
  15. Arirang, lyrical folk song in the Republic of Korea (2012)
  16. Kimjang, making and sharing kimchi (2013)
  17. Nongak, Community band music, dance and rituals in the Republic of Korea (2014)
  18. Juldarigi, traditional ritual wishing for a good harvest, a tug-of-war game (2015)

Memory of the World Register


The Korean documents declared UNESCO Memory of the World include:
  1. The Hunminjeongeum Manuscript(1997)
  2. Joseonwangjosillok, the Annals of the Joseon Dynasty (1997)
  3. Seungjeongwon Ilgi, the Diaries of the Royal Secretariat (2001)
  4. Jikji Simche Yojeol, the Second Volume of "Anthology of Great Buddhist Priests' Zen Teachings" (2001)
  5. Printing Woodblocks of the Tripitaka Koreana and Miscellaneous Buddhist Scriptures (2007)
  6. Uigwe, the Royal Protocols of the Joseon Dynasty (2007)
  7. Donguibogam, the Principles and Practice of Eastern Medicine (2009)
  8. Ilseongnok, Records of Daily Reflections (2011)
  9. Arresting the demonstrating students, archives of the May 18 Democratic Uprising against the Military Regime (2011)
  10. Nanjung Ilgi: War Diary of Admiral Yi Sun-sin (2013)
  11. Archives of Saemaul Undong (New Community Movement) (2013)
  12. Confucian Printing Woodblocks in Korea (2015)
  13. The Archives of the KBS Special Live Broadcast “Finding Dispersed Families” (2015)

Above information adapted from the Visit Korea "UNESCO World Heritage" posting.

Saturday, December 19, 2015

Gongju and Buyeo (Baekje Culture)

Dating back almost 1700 years, the Baekje Kingdom at its height was the center of arts and culture on the Korean peninsula and beyond.

King Munyeong's Gilt-bronze Incense Burner of Baekje, was molded on a Boshan incense burner. A Boshan incense burner symbolized the mountain dwelling of the gods, and such incense burners are covered in symbols portraying celestial affairs. This incense burner is mounted with the mystical phoenix, the lid is mountain shaped and filled with holes for the smoke to escape. Since its discovery in 1993 and then its designation in 1996 as a National Treasure of Korea, the incense burner became a symbol of national pride and an icon of age-old art in the Korean peninsula.

About the Baekje Kingdom

Baekje (18 BC - 660 AD) was one of the Three Kingdoms of Korea—along with Goguryeo (37 BC - 668 AD) and Silla (57 BC - 935 AD)—and its people were descendants of Buyeo tribes people of Manchuria. Baekje tribes migrated southward to what is now Seoul where the Baekje leaders set up a capital, asserting control over the local tribes people and beating back pressure from the northern kingdom of Goguryeo.

Baekje flourished in the 4th century, trading with Japan and the Chinese kingdom of Chin. Goguryeo then forced Baekje south from Seoul to Ungjin (now Kongju) in 475, so for the next 63 years Ungjin became the Baekje capital. Ungjin was near water—the Geum or “Brocade” River—and well defended by the Kongsan fortress, but it was too far from the sea and too surrounded by mountains to allow easy communication with the outside world.
Click to enlarge
King Song-wang (ruling 523 – 553) moved the capital downstream to Sabi (now Buyeo) to a place on the Geum River now known specifically as Paengma or “White Horse” (the name explained later). Sabi was nearer the sea, had a large, rich farming area, and also had the nearby riverside Sabi fortress at Puso-san.

Cultural Sharing during the Baekje Kingdom

Baekje made many contributions to the Japanese culture in the 6th century—most obviously, the teachings of Buddha and Buddha temple architecture, some of which can be still seen near Nara, Japan, at the Horyuji Temple (the world’s oldest wooden building). 

Baekje also benefited from the direct importation of Chinese culture. The Baekje upper class knew the Confucian classics, Chinese medicine, and divination.

Baekje artifacts speak of a society that was interactive with a wide range of tribes people and cultural interactions. Baekje tombs remain distinct from other tombs of contemporary kingdoms. Burial urns now housed in the Buyeo National Museum hark back to tribal culture, while Buddhist temple objects and figures testify to a strong religious flavor and the import, assimilation and development of Buddhism. The tombs give some indication of the society and economy—elite clans which evolved from tribal holdovers as well as elaborate ranks and grades of salary for officials and military leaders (as can be seen through Chinese imports used by military elites). Farmers paid taxes in silk and rice. In battles, prisoners were taken as slaves.



The Demise of Baekje

Baekje came to an end in 660 when it was overcome by combined forces from T’ang China and the neighboring Silla Kingdom, which was based in Gyeongju. The interference of Chinese forces came after a long hiatus (220 – 589 AD) during which China had been fragmented into many small kingdoms. Prior to 220 the Han dynasty had claimed large parts of northern Korea (the Lolong colony) but the fall of Han allowed the Koreans (or proto-Koreans) to develop their own kingdoms—Goguryeo, Silla and Baekje. In the early 600’s, China was reunified by the Sui (581 – 618 AD) and then the T’ang (618 – 907 AD). T’ang, which was the greatest empire the world had seen, naturally aimed to recapture the glories of the long-gone Han empire, and gaining control over Korea was part of this design.

Overcoming one of the Three Kingdoms in the Korean peninsula was not so easy as the kingdoms were adept at alliance politics, manipulating each other and foreigners in China and Japan. Koguryeo in particular was armed, and it beat back the repeated Sui and T’ang invasions in Manchuria. Since force was ineffective, the T’ang government combined forces and political manipulation with the Silla kingdom, knowing that Silla and Baekje were at odds. T’ang struck an alliance with Silla, and their combined forces destroyed Baekje in 660 AD.

Modern Buyeo Reveals the Denouement in 660 AD

The T’ang forces, purportedly numbering 130,000, approached Sabi from the north. The commanding general, Su Ting-fang, stopped when he reached the river facing the Sabi fortress on Puso-san. The diviners said that he couldn’t cross the river until he got rid of the river dragon which protected the Sabi fortress. Knowing that dragons were pushovers for white horses, General Su went fishing using the head of a white horse for bait. As the story goes, he lured the dragon to the surface, killed it, and then led the army across the river to assault the Baekje capital. Another version of the story is that a storm caused by the protective dragon raged, and so Su Ting-fang using the head of a white horse which dragons have a special attraction to, fished for the dragon amidst thunder and lightning and was able to lure and capture the live dragon, who, in exchange for its life, stilled the storm so the general's army could safely cross the river.

The Chinese were not alone in their assault. Kim Yusin, the great Silla general, had fought his way through the Baekje army led by General Kyebaek (see statue in Buyeo) and had laid siege to Sabi fortress all around the south wall. The Chinese assault across the Geum river and directly into the fortress left the Baekje people nowhere to flee. 3,000 court women unable to flee and preferring suicide to being taken captive by the horny hordes flung themselves over a cliff, now called the Nakhwa-am or “Falling Flowers Cliff”.  Though King Uija managed to get away to Ungjin (Kongju), his kingdom was crushed.

Mural on one of the walls of the Goran-sa. The mural faces the healing medicinal waters of Goran-sa.
Buyeo Town

The name Buyeo comes from the ancestral home of the Baekje people in Manchuria, and for a while it was called Nam-Buyeo or “South Buyeo”, but it is universally known as Baekje, the “Hundred Tribes”.

Cheongnim-sa was once an elaborate temple, but now all that exists is a site marked in downtown Buyeo and two important stone relics—a weathered stone Buddha (National Treasure #108) and the five-storied stone Baekje Pagoda (National Treasure #9), which is only one of two pagodas that have survived since the Three Kingdoms period. Su Ting-fang added insult to injury when he carved the story of his victory over Baekje on the base of the pagoda, hence the “Pacifying Baekje Pagoda” name which is sometimes attached to it. The shame of this inscription was such that the survivors buried the pagoda and it lay buried—and therefore better preserved—at Mireuk-sa some kilometers away until the 1890’s.

The five-storied stone Baekje pagoda (National Treasure #9),
sometimes shamefully known as the "Pacifying Baekje Pagoda".
Strangely, this Buddha looks very much like the Easter Island moai at Ahu Tahai ...

Puso-san has a hiking road from the Baekje museum that goes up the mountain and into the forest on what used to be the Sabi fortress. At the top of Puso-san is Yeongil-lu (“Greeting-the-sun” Pavillion) and the Songweol-lu (“Seeing-off-the-setting-moon” Pavillion), and the Nakhwa-am (“Falling Flowers Rock”).

One of the pavillions at the top of Nakhwa-am.
Goran-sa is the "Korean Orchid" temple below the Nakhwa-am near the water’s edge. Its name is derived from the Gorancho plant (Crypsinus hastatus), which is something like an orchid and which grows in profusion near the adjacent spring of medicinal water. This spring is where the Baekje kings got their drinking water, and the temple site was constructed to commemorate the “Falling Flowers” of Nakhwa-am. According to legend, the king enjoyed drinking water from Goran-sa and sent someone to fetch his mineral water every day. Before drinking, court ladies floated leaves on the water to prove it came from the temple. Legend also has it that if a person drinks a cup of Goran mineral water, he or she will become three years younger. [It didn't work. Several of us tried it.]


For those interested in a boat ride on the Geum “Brocade” River, the boat will take passengers past the Choryong-dae, or “Fishing-for-the-Dragon Terrace”) where Su Ting-fang is said to have caught the dragon.



King Munyeong’s Tomb in Kongju

Kongju, capital of Baekje from 475 to 538 AD, lies upstream from Buyeo on the “Brocade” River. As the Middletons point out in their Some Korean Journeys (RAS, 1975), Kongju has twice had its status as capital taken away—it lost out to Buyeo in 538 and then to Daejeon in 1931 under the Japanese Government-General.

Kongju also has a mountain (Kongsan) on the river, a fortress larger than the one in Buyeo on the mountain (Kongsan-seong), a Chinese connection (the Ming helped fight Hideyoshi’s Japanese invaders here in the 1590’s), a set of royal tombs, and a branch of the National Museum.


dragon on the tilework in King Munyeong's tomb
fanciful tilework inside King Munyeong's cave
Kongju’s greatest treasure is the Baekje tomb of King Munyeong (also spelled Muryeong) and who ruled 501 – 523 AD. Munyeong’s tomb is in the tomb complex near the river. Over the centuries the other tombs were picked clean by thieves and scrofulous antique dealers, but Munyeong’s tomb remained undiscovered until, by accident, government restorers happened on it while working on a nearby grave in 1971. Excavations revealed an undisturbed Baekje royal tomb, guarded in the entry chamber by a little stone pig and containing hundreds of jewels, decorations, pots, and a very diverse assortment of artifacts. Discovery of the tomb was to Korea what the discovery of Tuthankhamen’s tomb was to Egypt, or like the discovery of Ch’in Huang’ti’s terra cotta army was to China.

Outstanding among the tomb objects is Munyeong’s gold crown ornament, in a flame-shaped pattern hung with gold decorations and sewn, apparently onto a silk cap which did not survive the centuries. In the Kongju National Museum along with the guardian pig and the crown ornaments, are bronze mirrors, gold earrings, jade, hairpins, pots, headrests, figurines, and decorated bricks and roof tiles. Where Baekje studies prior to that time had relied on the likes of Su Ting-fang’s carved account on the Baekje Pagoda in Buyeo, Munyeong’s tomb opened up new vistas for comparisons and studies of the transmission of culture among the kingdoms and peoples of East Asia. Until recently, visitors could enter the now emptied tomb but which has intricately designed tile work; however, now that a replica of the tomb has been included in a nearby viewing room, the tomb, having survived centuries is being preserved and removed from the influx of visitors so that it can continue to survive and breathe the presence of the past to the present and future generations.
Imagery of King Munyeong wearing his Baekje crown ornaments.
The mythical, mystical creature - the guardian pig of King Munyeong's tomb
References:

Royal Asiatic Society Korea Branch detailed printout (take the tour of Buyeo and Kongju)

Visit Korea. "Gongju: The Glory of Baekje Lives On" by Robert Koehler. June 27, 2008.