Bangudae Petroglyphs, Ulsan

Two of my students put together this phenomenal presentation on the Bangudae Petroglyphs of Ulsan, and with their permission I am able to share their research. Thank you, Tae Ho and Sun-Hyung! I am so impressed with your 'sacred site' research!

For more on the mysteries of Bangudae, reference Duncan Caldwell's "Save the Prehistoric Whales". Duncan Caldwell is a archeologist, ethnologist, painter, poet, writer, lecturer, in short, a Renaissance Man!

Or visit the National Museum of Korea:

Bangudae Petroglyphs in Ulsan 
(National Treasure No. 285)

The carvings and line drawing on the rocky wall of Bangudae enable us to get a glimpse of the life of prehistoric people by means of vivid portrayals of their hunting, fishing, and festive activities. Among the whales, turtles, tigers, deer, and other animals represented here, some appear as being captured in nets or cages. One can also see people in boats and warriors dancing with their genitals exposed. It is assumed that the petroglyphs functioned as a sort of prayer for bounteous harvest and success in hunting and fishing.

Hallasan: Holy Mountain

(YouTube) Ascending South Korea’s Most Respected Mountain (4:34)

• Halla Mountain is a holy mountain based on folklore: 

• Halla Mountain functions as the Mother Nature of Jeju Island

• To climb the mountain one needs humility and respect, not just strength and perseverance, because even the spirits who visit her are captivated by her grandeur.

• Halla Mountain is South Korea's most spiritually divine mountain. Known also as Yeongjusan, "mountain high enough to pull the galaxy," which means it is high enough to draw the aura of the whole universe.

• Jeju Island was created by Seoulmoondae Halmani, a goddess who gathered clumps of earth in her skirt and then flung them into the sea creating Jeju Island and the largest flung clump became Halla Mountain, the holy mountain where 500 of her sons were placed. A group of rocks known as the 500 Generals on the Yeongsil Trail (on the southwestern part of the mountain) are the sons of Seoulmoondae Halmani. And according to legend, with the death of the goddess her sons turned to stone to eternally mourn the passing of their mother.

• The white deep on the mountain is the symbol of fortune on Jeju Island. On the deer the spirits descend to play on its back. 

• The mountain rewards those who respect her, and the traveler who climbs to the top of the mountain on a dark night and calls to the stars with heartfelt gratitude for their long journey, as legend has it, the person will be blessed with health and longevity.

The Many Names of Hallasan

Halla Mountain is a mountain steeped in folklore, and has a variety of names stemming from legends and circumstances:

Hallasan —  Han represents the universe, and la means "pull". Both words mean that the mountain is high enough to pull the universe. According to the old legend, if anyone were to climb up the mountain, see a star and call out noinseong (노인성), they could live a longer life.

Jinan —  The name represents a mountain that is located at the back side of a town and protects the town's residents. Jeju people called Hallasan Jinan because Hallasan blocked winds that were blowing from the Pacific Ocean and also protected the residents.

Dumuak — Dumuak is another name for Hallasan. The name represents the bold head mountain. According to a legend, a hunter accidentally ripped God's belly button. God expressed his anger by ripping off the peak of Hallasan. The remaining part of the mountain became Baengnokdam (백록담) and the ripped part of the mountain became Sanbangsan (산방산).

Wonsan — Wonsan became the name of Hallasan because the center of the mountain is the highest point and the mountain looks like a circular cone. On a very clear day, Hallasan is visible from the mainland.

Yeongjusan — Yeongjusan was believed to be a habitat for a plant species that made people immortal. According to a legend, immortal wizards of Korea used to live in Hallasan. They were immortal because of this special plant. Qinshi Huang wanted the plant to live forever and ordered his men to get the plant (200 AD).

Buak — Buak became the name of Hallasan, because of the peak of the mountain. The crater of the mountain looks like a big pond. According to a legend, a white deer used to drink the water here.

Jeju, Island of Samshinsan or "Islands of the Blest"

The extinct volcano (5850 feet of 1950 meters) which last erupted in AD 1007 dominates Jeju Island. Ancestry on Jeju is unknown, but a mix of indigenous Koreans, Chinese from the north, Malayans from the south, and perhaps Japanese from the east is likely. During Neolithic times a unique culture developed on the island, and legends speak of the great mountain being the dwelling place of a race of giants and various mountain spirits.

But what really made Jeju "known" to the world is based on a legend of mythical discovery. By the end of the first millennium BC, Jeju-do had entered the realm of Chinese mythology as one of the islands of Samshinsan, or Islands of the Blest, also called the Three Holy Mountains. These legendary isles were said to have the sacred fungus of immortality growing in great abundance. 

This sacred fungus was probably the Amanita muscaria mushroom, also called Fly Agaric, which figures prominently in the shamanic and religious mythologies of lands from far eastern China, India, and Siberia all the way to the Celts of Europe and the Laplanders of Scandinavia. Known as Soma in ancient India, this brilliant red mushroom with white spots is familiar to people of European descent because of its association with children's fairy tales, magical dwarfs, and the cape of Santa Claus.

Anthropological studies of the mythology and sacramental use of this potent psychotropic (vision-inducing) mushroom have shown its extensive associations with the emergence of proto-religious traditions throughout the world. (Readers interested in this fascinating subject should consult the writings of ethnobotanist Terence McKenna.) 

These hallucinogenic mushrooms were once found growing in the forests of Halla San, in the Yeong-shil or "Spirit Place" wilderness that is the ritual gateway to the sacred peak. One of the three Samshinsan holy islands was known as Yeongju, which is the first of several historical names of Jeju-do. Yeongju San, meaning "Mountain of the Blessed Isle," was believed by the ancient Chinese to form a sort of bridge between heaven and earth. At a later date, when the Milky Way galaxy was believed by Neo-Confucian societies to form the connecting link between the heavens and the earth, Yeongju San became Halla San, "The Peak That Pulls Down the Milky Way." This image of heavenly energy flowing down upon Jeju-do offers one explanation for the supernatural phenomena mentioned in the ancient myths of the island.

In the middle of the volcanic crater atop Halla San lies a small lake called Baengnok-dam, or White Deer Lake. Legends mention this lake as the abode of angelic presences and the site where benevolent wizards would descend to ride on white deer along the shores of the lake.

And some pictures of Hallasan taken at the National Museum of Korea, Hallasan Branch:

Jeju Island in painted glass in the domed ceiling of the National Museum of Korea, Jeju Branch

A collection of attractions and memories posted in the National Museum of Korea, Jeju Branch

Olle trail experience - the biking/hiking/touring trail that circumnavigates Jeju Island, National Museum of Korea, Jeju Branch

Map of the rocks of Jeju Island [Korea has quite the igneous record around the country, with Jeju, Ulleungdo, and southern coastal jagged shorelines attracting the most interest.]

Distribution map of the dang (shamanic shrines) of Jeju Island, National Museum of Korea, Jeju Branch

Some pictures at the peak of Hallasan with its crater quite full because of heavy rains the previous day. How lucky we were to see the water in a seasonally dry crater!

Coming out of the tree line and approaching the peak!

Looking back .... we're even above the clouds! What a feeling of space and surrealness!

Looking back as the clouds rise and what appears to be people keeping strides just ahead of the billows.

The crater of Hallasan!

A closer look :)

The descent .... wish we could have taken pictures of the three roe deer we saw! We probably wouldn't have stopped to look for them if we hadn't heard their barking which sounded like loud, terrified injured dogs!

The onmipresent beggars at the peak and at the rest stations.

Crows will eat anything. I fed these guys walnuts, the only thing I hadn't yet eaten on the trip up. These guys seemed quite happy ... a bunch of beggars, and demanding ones at that!

Candid shot of a greedy sucker!

Traditional Tea at Sudeoksa Temple

Sudeoksa Temple is a Jogye Order temple, nestled at the foot of Mt. Deoksungsan near Yesan, Chungcheongnam-do. It stands tall in  huddle of mountains with Mt Gayasan to the north, Oseosan to the west, Yongbongsan to the southeast, and the with the incredible gentle slopes, valleys and broad fields allowing panoramic views this area is known as "little Geumgangsan". In this setting Sudeoksa is the main monastery of Seon Buddhism and has produced many spiritual leaders.

Wandering around this temple for a while and seeing the massive and wide variety of trees (evidently this place was little touched by the Korean War), my friend and I decided our highlight of the day was finally stopping at a traditional tea shop completely surrounded by forests that were wet with rain.  No other buildings were in sight and the tea shop was all of wood decor with floor to ceiling windows, a very homey atmosphere and the rich aroma of homemade long-brewed teas. We settled on ginger-lemon tea for me, completely homemade, and a earthy brew of a root tea decorated with nut shavings for my friend. Perfect, tranquil, I want to return with a book on another rainy day! 

Shaman Festival, Gyeryongsan

Hippie Korea tour group organized a trip to the "princess festival" (as translated online ) at Gyeryongsan, Gyeryongsan has been regarded as a sacred mountain since ancient times, and documented as such since the Silla Dynasty. During the Joseon Dynasty XX temple on Gyeryongsan positioned strategically and geomantically-speaking between Mt. Myohyang to the north and Jiri Mts to the south was dedicated to the mountain, which thus became its national guardian. The mountain also created a unique aspect of Korean Buddhism, the "sanshin prayer" which is making hopes and expressing wishes to the mountain god. For civilians, the mountain god was the object of praying for fertility and the birth of a son, and for shamans the mountain god is an objective source of energy. Shamanic practices have been central to this mountain culture and, until the Japanese colonial period when many traditional Korean cultural expressions were prohibited, were conducted annually here. 

After the colonial period, shamanic practices were quickly reinstated and Gyeryongsan is arguably one of the strongholds of Korean shamanism. However, with the influences of modernism and on-going dynamic culture changes the people of Gyeryongsan Jarak Village have changed their ceremony and incorporated it into a festival that invites tourism. That said, it is still a type of national ceremony.

So a busload of international people descended on the festival, and the locals were delighted. Several special farmers' dances had been prepared, but the best dancing was done by a group of elderly villagers, mostly men over 60, who pounded out the beat with great enthusiasm, although always in sync. They had real character! I've heard a lot of farmers' drum groups but these guys far excelled all others because they played like they felt the music, and they danced raucously while playing like the act of sharing music was a wild and enervating experience. Well, I'm convinced it was for them, and by extension to all the viewers as well! And like in all Korean traditional performances, there is no barrier between the performers and the audience, and so the audience was naturally expected to participate in the dancing, and yes the drinking of makgeolli too ... which large numbers did!

The festival performance included role play between historical characters, had a reenactment of a gut (exorcism), included a women's dance representing the dignity and properness of the upperclass, and between performances the audience was fed ddeok for comensal eating and plied with makgeolli for the same purpose.

The entrance to the festival site with jangseung appropriately standing to fend off evil. In traditional times the jangseung, the yin-yang couple, were positioned along the roads the led into villages. They were the sentinels of the village and thought to ward off evilness with their ugly faces.

best drumming group ... really warming the audience up!

By popular request at the end of this particular day at the festival, the elderly-men (mostly) drummers were requested to pound out their invigorating beats again!

A beautiful display of real food for this country festival!  Of late, I've been seeing plastic foods and sweets because of food expense and the subsequent waste of ceremonial food so this display is quite impressive.

The pig, especially a smiling pig, brings good luck to shamanic festivals.

The large basin in front of the pig is filled with makgeolli, and people with petitions come up and dip a bill of money, typically W10,000, into the makgeolli and paste it onto the pig. Unfortunately the wind was blowing and the bills kept flying off the pig ..... does this mean that luck or one's wishes fly away? Hmm, didn't ask.

A very rich display of wealth for the ceremony presented here! Plus, displaying the lucky smiling pig!
Fortune will shine on this village!

The Royal Tombs of Joseon Dynasty

Jinny Hwang Inhee presented on the Royal Tombs of Joseon. She is an expert and has made an in-depth study of the Joseon Dynasty royal tombs, and in her expressive slide show she explained many of the characteristic features of the tombs. Jinny Hwang Inhee, a graduate from the Civics Education Department, Ewha Womans University, spoke in Korean and Kim Jaebum, a RAS Council member, provided English translation. Jinhee is a writer and an educator. Since 2013 she has been serving as President of the Durumari History Education Institute.

A write-up of her presentation is as follows: 

The Joseon Dynasty, the last period in Korean history before the Japanese annexation, was founded by General Yi Seonggye in 1392 and forcibly annexed to the Japanese Empire in 1910. While the dynasty lasted for 519 years, 27 kings and 45 queens reigned, including the last two with the title of “Emperor” with their empresses in the Daehan / Korean Empire. In all, 42 Joseon royal tombs including two in Gaeseong, presently North Korea, are preserved, virtually all that were built. The 40 of them located in South Korea are registered by UNESCO as a World Cultural Heritage not only for the aesthetic value of their sculpture but also for the entirety of their preservation. 

It is also amazing to note that the royal ancestral rituals jerye have been observed continuously for 623 years. The main Jeonju Yi family Jongyagwon had to overcome difficulties following the demise of the dynasty to continue the ritual at the graves, while that held at the main shrine of Jongmyo, which is now held once on the first Sunday of May each year, is also a UNESCO World Cultural Heritage.

JOSEON DYNASTY

• last of the Korean traditional dynasties
• founded by General Yi Seonggye in 1392
• 27 kings & 45 queens
• from 1392 - 1910, a span of 519 years
• royal tombs - a graveyard exclusive for kings and queens

Joseon Royal Tombs

• 42 tombs in total = 40 in South Korea + 2 in Gaeseong, present-day North Korea
• the 40 tombs in South Korea are UNESCO World Culture Heritage, and they are protected for their aesthetic value and must be preserved in their entirety
• all within 44 kilometers of Seoul, the capital

• 2 in Yeoju, Gyeonggi-do

• ? in Yeongweol, Gangwon-do 

(click to reach the interactive map on the location of the 42 royal tombs)

FUNERAL

Ancestral Rites

• Jongyagwon, for the main Jeonju Yi family
• rites at royal tombs continued even during Japanese occupation
• Jongmyo Jerye 

• 1st Sunday of May each year

• UNESCO World Cultural Heritage

• continued for over 600 years

King or Queen Dies

• establish gukjangdogam
• place corpse in jaegung and keep it at binjeon
• observe rites and mourn for 5 months
• no preservatives or cooling facilities
• cultivate juniper for incense

Constructing Tombs

• select site
• form mound and excavate 3 meters deep
• make room for stones or lime walls
• stone sculptures to decorate
• build jeongjagak at entrance
• erect hongsalmun gate 

(read more about tombs and their terms)

Burial and Rites

• 5 months after demise
• take soul in shinju back to the palace
• rites in honjeon every morning and evening for 3 years
• move shinju to Jongmyo
• royal name, the myoho, is given
• queen's soul to Jongmyo 3 years after king's death

Location and Feature

• best location: big mountain to the north, low hills to the south, views to the east and west
• features differ between each era based on:

• state law

• extent of royal power

• political circumstances

• economic conditions

• topography of the site

Basic Structure

• jaeshil at entrance
• geumcheongyo bridge
• baewi

Chamdo: Path for Worship

• long stone path for hongsalmun
• left: shindo - soul, tomb owner
• right: eodo - lower status on up to ancestors
• soul-tablet in yellow cloth on shindo

Staircases

• left: luxurious patterns for souls
• right: without ornaments for kings
• down staircase behind the palace
• soul to neungchim to fall quietly to sleep, no stairway to come down

Jeongjagak

• exclusive for royal tombs (if at other tombs, people arrested and killed as traitors)
• entrance and exit:

• direction decided and must connect to chamdo

• enter from the east: sunrise, beginning, birth, spring, etc.

• leave toward the west: death, extinction

Smaller Annexes

• subokbang - on right before jeongjagak; for tomb keeper and night duty
• suragan - royal kitchen on left; prepare food and offerings
• bigak - a little further inside and on the right; tombstone etching on whose tomb

Sachoji or Gang

• hill behind jeongjagak
• unique style of Joseon royal tombs
• 2 meanings of gang:

• tank for storing vigor streaming into the soil

• demonstrate dignity as power

• hiking precluded - somewhat open to the neungchim at the front

Museogin and Munseogin

• stages divided by stones on top of sachoji
• lower stage: museogin and maseok - have warrior-shaped generals with swords
• middle stage: munseogin and maseok - have officials, most of whom are scholars
• interpretation: "The pen is mightier than the sword" meaning literary preference over military 
• reign continues posthumously
• variations in garments by king:

• museogin placed only in royal tombs

• civilian graves considered treacherous

Neungchim

• top stage - burial mound neungchim
• gokjang:

• walls and roof tiles surrounding 3 sides

• sun, moon, stars

• resemble palace buildings' back walls

• royal tombs as epitomes of the palace

Seogmul and Honyuseok

• seogmul - in front of gokjang

• yangseok - sheep = obedience; repel evil

• hoseok - tiger = loyal; patron neungchim

• honyuseok - in front of neungchim

• for offerings in ordinary graveyards

• "stone where the soul plays"

Goseok and Mangjuseok

• goseok - stones supporting honyuseok look like drums

• guimyeon - faces of ghost or goblin

• mangjuseok - on each side of honyuseok: "observing stone poles" with several hypothesis about their use:

• sign for soul from body to find neungchim

• device to harmonize yin and yang

• instrument to hold vigor from being scattered 

• columns a division between this world and the next

Seho and Jangmyeongdeung

• seho embossed on stone poles

• shape of ear with holes

• developed into animal shapes

• some not like tigers but wizards

• jangmyongdeung to honyuseok

• to pray for souls of the departed

• shape altered in each era

Conclusion

• scale gradually shrank - later kings were more pragmatic
• initial period of the kingdom:

• conscripted manpower 5,000 for each tomb

• construction work - up to 5 months

• mobilized personnel to carry food

• construction bothered people

• great agony on people in Gyeonggi where a large number of royal tombs have been built

• their endeavor and perseverance enables us to possess World Cultural Heritage today

Books Published:

Other notes:

• gukjangdogam - nation-wide royal funeral 

• In inclement weather when the body began to smell, the court spread juniper branches.

• 일월성신 - sun, moon, star decorations on the wall that surrounds the tombs

• 선장릉 - When UNESCO came to evaluate the tombs as a future UNESCO World Culture Heritage site, the Korean government didn't want to show the 선장릉 because there was no body inside. Eventually they did and it was highly regarded, especially as it was on very valuable land.

• The Silla and Koryeo Dynasty tombs were traditionally built on flat ground, but in the Joseon Dynasty, tombs were built on the top of artificial mounds.

• Today, there are three places where royal ancestor worship are held - the dates:

• 1st Sunday of May (solar calendar)

• each ancestor's memorial day

Concerns Regarding Upcoming Olympics at Pyeongchang

The following article "Pyeongchang Legacy May Be Huge Piles of Debt" was taken from Korean JoongAng Daily, Novermber 9, 2017. Already the government is worrying about the unexpectedly low number of tickets to the Olympic games being sold to help pay for the venue and construction are still unreserved. 

According to another article I read about a month ago, the government is said to have expected 1 million people to pay for tickets to the Olympics, with 750,000 of those being Koreans who live in country. However, those projected numbers are far from being achieved! 

France is boycotting the Olympics, North Korea at the time still didn't hadn't had their qualification games so their attendance was uncertain, and then the international community had issues with attending. South and North Korea are heavily featured in the news and the political situation between the two countries is unstable, making visitors to South Korea very nervous. International communities also held campaigns against coming to S Korea also because South Koreans eat dog; petitions circulated with international people signing to boycott the Olympics because of, not really the practice of eating dog, but because of how dogs were killed in order to achieve maximum flavor in the vigor-embewing dog meat. Other petitions also circulated boycotting the South Korean winter Olympics because South Korea destroyed a 500+ year old sacred forest where the king's meat was once procured in order to build a ski-jump for the Olympic competitors. There were other sites in S Korea where the ski jump could have been built, slightly below optimum elevation but still acceptable to meet Olympic regulations, but S Korea opted to destroy a sacred forest that the government had designated as sacred less than 10 years previous. International communities were outraged, particularly on the grounds that the host countries of the Olympics must comply with environmental standards in order to (1) be hosts of the Olympics, and (2) get compensatory funds by an Olympic foundation. Obviously South Korea broke the rules and this was loudly aired online via outraged international communities.

This information is just background for readers to understand a bit more some of the dynamics affecting the low number of tickets sold thus far to people to watch the games first-hand. From this article, it's apparent that there are post-Olympic financial consequences of hosting the Olympics also.

As the 2018 PyeongChang Winter Olympics rapidly approach, experts are increasingly voicing concerns that the legacy of the games may not be the passion and unity that the organizing committees are promising, but instead the costly, unused facilities that are likely to dot the northeast of the country.  

Four Olympic venues are yet to come up with post-Olympic plans, raising concerns that the Winter Olympics will join a growing list of international events that have ultimately gone on to cost Korea huge amounts of money.  

When the Asian Games was hosted in Incheon in 2014, about 1.72 trillion won ($1.54 billion) was spent on building 16 new venues. The majority of that is still left as debt, and Incheon has to pay between 10 billion and 150 billion won every year from 2015 to 2029.  

Not only that, the Korean Grand Prix, hosted for the first time in 2010, had to stop in 2013 as the accumulated deficit stacked up to 190 billion won.  

Excluding the PyeongChang Olympic Stadium, where the opening and closing ceremony will be held, there are a total of 12 venues for the Olympics. Of those, six of them are newly constructed and the remaining six were repaired, with the total bill racking up to about a trillion won. Including the newly-built Jeongseon Alpine Centre, which cost 203.4 billion won, Gangneung Ice Arena, costing 134 billion won, and Gangneung Oval, costing 126.4 billion won, five of the venues cost more than 100 billion won each.  

But three venues - Jeongseon Alpine Centre, Gangneung Hockey Centre and Gangneung Oval - are yet to announce a post-Olympics plan. Originally, the Gangneung Oval was expected to be broken down after the Olympics, but last year, Gangwon and the organizing committee agreed to maintain the facility.  

Daemyung Group, owner of the Daemyung Killer Whales Ice Hockey team, was originally going to take charge of the Gangneung Hockey Centre, but the company dropped out once it was revealed that the facility had a five-year operating cost of 10 billion won.  

At the Jeongseon Alpine Centre, 55 percent of the facility is expected to be restored back to its natural state. Since it’ll no longer be able to be used as a ski resort, it’s more difficult to come up with a post-Olympics plan.  

According to the Korea Industrial Strategy Institute Foundation, the annual maintenance cost of the main venues is expected to be 31.3 billion won. The foundation projects the facilities will be able to earn about 17.1 billion won a year, leaving a 14.2 billion won deficit.  

The PyeongChang Olympic Stadium is going to be the biggest problem. It cost a total of 63.5 billion won to build the stadium but it will be broken down after only four days of use throughout the Olympics and the Paralympics next year. This means that the stadium cost 15.8 billion won per day.  

Upon completion of the event, only 5,000 seats of 35,000 seats and three of seven floors will be kept. Though there hasn’t been a set plan for post-Olympic usage, the stadium is expected to be transformed into a concert hall or memorial park.  

Since Gangwon hasn’t come up with post-Olympics plans, they are asking the central government to manage the venues. To do so, they are pushing for a revision in the National Sports Promotion Act.  

“There’s a high possibility that the government will once again have to deal with the negative effects from the local government hosting such a big event,” said Lee Dae-taek, professor of physical education at Kookmin University. “Gangwon needs to be more responsible.”  

Chung Hee-joon, a sports sociology professor at Dong-A University, also pointed out that, “Hoenggye, where the Olympic Plaza is located, is a small town with only a population of 4,000. It’s difficult to make a post-Olympics plan.”  

To fix this, the organizing committee may have to study the success of low cost and high-efficiency events like the Gwangju Universiade and 6th CISM World Games Military Games, Korea.  

The 2015 Summer Universiade in Gwangju was by far the most successful event in Korea financially, as they only constructed three of the 69 facilities and used existing venues for the remaining events.  

The podiums were provided by the Incheon Asian Games organizing committee at no cost and the seats at the stadiums were folding chairs. Rather than flower bouquets, winners were awarded the event’s mascot dolls and tents were used as waiting rooms for players.  

This allowed savings of 199.9 billion won in operating and equipment expenses.  

The 6th CISM World Games Military Games in Mungyeong installed 350 caravans as athletes’ accommodation. Throughout the tournament, the total budget was 165.3 billion won with equipment expenses of 18.7 billion won. 

BY SONG JI-HOON, PARK RIN [kang.yoorim@joongang. co.kr]

Donggureung, Hongneung, Yureung - Royal Tombs

Jihoon Suk, a new member of the Royal Asiatic Society and a recent MA graduate in Korean Modern History from Yonsei, led a tour of some of the royal tombs. Since he grew up in the precincts of Donggureung and has seen the changes since childhood, he had great commentary on the development and "exportation of modern culture" on the tombs and their appearances today as compared to just 20 years ago.

 

Royal Tombs of Donggureung, UNESCO World Heritage

The largest royal tomb cluster of the Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910), Donggureung refers to nine tumuli east of Seoul where seven kings and their ten queen consorts, spanning almost the entire dynasty, are buried. They include Geonwolleung for the found King Taejo (r. 1392-1398), Mongneung for the 14th ruler, King Seonjo (r. 1567-1608), and Wolleung for the 21st monarch, King Yeongjo (r. 1724-1776).

Located at an extraordinarily auspicious site, the cluster was initially called Dongoreung (eastern five tombs) and then Dongchilneung (eastern seven tombs). The current name dates to 1855 when Sureung was added to inter the posthumously named King Munjo (1809-1830).

The 40 Joseon royal tombs, except for two in North Korea, were collectively inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List in June 2009 in recognition of their traditional Korean architectural style, beautiful landscaping in harmony with the natural settings, the rituals held at the royal grave sites, comparable examples of which are hard to find in any other country, and rich documentary heritage related to the tombs.

East Nine Royal Tombs, Guri

Historic Site No. 193

After the demise of King Taejo, the founder and the 1st monarch of the Joseon Dynasty in 1408, King Taejong, the 3rd monarch of the dynasty, built a royal tomb for King Taejo at this location. Throughout the Joseon Dynasty, other kings and queens were buried here also. As a result, there are a total of 9 royal tombs in this site.

• Geonwolleung - the tomb of King Taejo, 1st monarch
• Hyeolleung - the tomb of King Munjong, 5th monarch and Queen Hyeondeok
• Mongneung - the tomb of King Seonjo, 14th monarch, Queen Uiin and his 2nd Queen Inmok
• Hwireung - the tomb of Queen Jangnyeol, 2nd Queen of King Injo, 16th monarch
• Sungreung - the tomb of King Hyeongjong, 18th monarch and Queen Myeongseong
• Hyeongeung - the tomb of Queen Danui, queen to Gyeongjong, 20th monarch
• Wolleung - the tomb of Yeongjo, 21st monarch, and his 2nd Queen Joengsun
• Sureung - the tomb of posthumous Emperor Munjo and Empress Sinjeong
• Gyeongneung - the tomb of Emperor Heonjong, 24th monarch, Empress Hyohyeon and the 2nd Empress Hyojeong

In accordance with pungsu (geomancy), Donggureung has Mt. Geoman as the guardian mountain jusan at the rear, and most of the burial mounds are located halfway up the hill. Donggureung also features topographical elements, including a symbolic blue dragon on the left and a white tiger to the right and the opposite mountain overlooking the site of the burial mounds to the south. Donggureung with the area of 196-ha shows various types of burial mounds. These are:

• Dalleung, the grave mound of a king or queen alone on a hill
• Ssangneung, the grave mounds with the king and queen side by side on the hill
• Dongwonigangneung, the separated mounds with king and queen placed on adjacent hills running from the same guardian mountain
• Hapjangneung, the bodies of the king and queen buried under the same mound
• Sanyeolleung, the triple parallel mounds of a king and his queens on the same hill

Stele for King Taejo at Geonwolleung Royal Tomb, Guri

Treasure No 1803

The stele for King Taejo at the Geonwolleung Royal Tomb in Guri was erected in 1409 (the 9th year of the reign of King Taejong of the Joseon Dynasty) to commemorate the life and achievements of Yi Seong-gye (1335-1408), who later became King Taejo, the founder of the Joseon Dynasty. The stele bears an inscription recounting the story of King Taejo's life and the foundation of the Joseon Dynasty. With its excellent preservation of dragon-shaped capstone, main body and tortoise-shaped pedestal, it is told that the stele had become an example to the other stele dedicated for the kings of early Joseon Dynasty and also to the monuments of later times.

The epitaphs on the front and back of the stele were composed by Seon Seun (1352-1430), a renowned scholar and civil official of the early Joseon Period, and Byeon Gye-ryang (1389-1430), a great write of the same period. The name of the stele was written by Jeong Gu (1350-1418), a noted official and calligrapher, and the epitaphs were beautifully inscribed by the hand of Seong Seok-rin (1338-1423), a master calligrapher of the early Joseon period.

Although the tortoise-shaped pedestal was reconstructed at a later date, this stele exhibits the representative features of steles of the early Joseon Period, and attests to the shift from the traditional Goryeo structure to a new style of stele that incorporated the tradition of the Ming Dynasty.

It is also an invaluable cultural heritage that provides profound insights for research on Korean history, cultural history, and calligraphic history.

Hongneung and Yureung Royal Tombs, Namyangju

Historic Sites No. 207

UNESCO World Heritage (June 30, 2009)

This historic site is home to Hongneung, the tomb of Emperor Gojong (1852-1919), the 26th monarch of the Joseon Dynasty, buried together with Empress Myeongseong from the Min clan (1852-1895), and Yureung, the tomb of Emperor Sunjong (1874-1926), the 27th monarch of the Joseon Dynasty, buried with both of his Empresses, Empress Sunmyeonghyo (1872-1904) from the Min clan and Empress Sunjeonghyo (1894-1966) from the Yoon clan. 

In accordance with pungsu (geomantic principles), Hongneung and Yureung were built in front of Myojeok Mountain as a main mountain to protect the burial ground, since its topography reflects a blue dragon to the left and a white tiger to the right and faces another mountain at a distance.

Unlike the royal tombs of the predecessors, Hongneung and Yureung are imperial royal tombs which clearly show the changes that took place in the royal burial system during the Joseon Period. Those changes are, in front of the burial mound, a Chimjeon instead of Jeongjagak is placed and stone statues of civil and military officials, animal figures of giraffes, elephants, lions, haetaes, camels and horses are erected in order along the Spirit Road - Royal Road, the stone path from the Chimjeon to the Hongsalmun on both sides. The Spirit Road - Royal Road also became wider and Jaesil, ritual preparation chamber, became larger than those of past royal tombs.

There are more royal tombs located within this historic site. These are: 

• Yeongwon, the tomb of King Yeongchin, son of Emperor Gojong, and his Queen
• Hoeinwon, the tomb of Imperial Prince Gu, son of King Yeoungchin
• the tomb of King Uichin, son of Emperor Gojong
• the tomb of Princess Deokhye, daughter of Emperor Gojong

Yeongwon - Hoeinwon Royal Tomb

Yeongwon is the tomb of Crown Prince Ulmin (1897-1970), also known by his imperial title Yeongchinwang), the last crown prince of the Korean Empire, and his wife Crown Princess Uimin (1901-1989). When the crown prince died in 1970, his burial place (Yeongwon) was prepared near Hongneung, the tomb of his father Emperor Gojong. His wife was buried alongside him in Yeongwon upon her death in 1989. To the east of Yeongwon is Hoeinwon, the tomb of their second son Lee Gu (1931-2005). Built in the traditional style of royal tombs of the Joseon Dynasty, Yeongwon comprises a tomb keeper's house, a red-spiked gate, a T-shaped wooden shrine, and a stele pavilion. The mound is surrounded by retaining stones, other stone structures including statues of a ram, tiger and horse, stone pillars, a rectangular stone table, a stone lantern, and statues of civil and military officials.