Spirit of Kwangju

Back in May 2015, Robert Koehler led a tour to Gwangju, the queen of southwest Korea, a city proud of its history of arts, culture and political activism (particularly the Gwangju Democratic Movement of May 1980), which many already know about. What is lesser known are some of the early modern historical sites, particularly Yangnim-dong, where American missionaries with the American Southern Presbyterian Mission established a base at the turn of the 20th century and played a significant role in the culture, social and spiritual development in the tumultous times of poverty, sickness, colonialism, and social, religious, governmental instability.

The neighborhood is still the home to missionary homes, mission churches and a historic mission school. Also is a missionary grave yard where 22 American Southern Presbyterian missionaries and their family members are buried, including the pioneering American missionary Rev. Eugene Bell. On one side of a building in the area is a Last Supper scene but replacing the traditional view of the 12 disciples are 12 of the leading church members of the time.

An interpretation of Leonardo da Vinci's "Last Supper" from left to right:

Martin L. Swinehart - 서로득선교사 (1874-1957)

절대고독의 시인 / 김현승 - (1913-1975)

Robert Manton Wilson - 우월순선교사 (1880-1963)

광주의 어머니 / 조아라 - (1912-2003)

Eugene Bell - 배우지선교사 ((1868-1925) 

Elisabeth J. Shepping - 서서평선교사 (1880-1934)

Owen Clement Carrington - 오원선교사 ((1867-1909)

Wiley Hamilton Forsythe - 포사이드선교사 (1873-1918)

오방/ 최흥종 - (1880-1966)

Herbert Augustus Codington - 고허번선교사 (1920-2003)

중국의 3대 작곡가 / 정율성 - (1914-1976)

검은 머리의 차이꼬프스키/ 정추 - (1923-2013)

Too little is said about missionaries who laid the foundation for literacy, medicine and much social reform in Korea. So seeing a building that actually salutes the missionary class is something rather novel in today's high-tech society filled with comforts and conveniences but which now pays little regard to the spiritual.

24 Solar Terms

Traditionally, Korea has had 24 "jeolgi" seasons, like many East Asian countries. These 24 seasons were based on the lunar calendar. While the west used the solar calendar which is based on the earth's rotation around the sun and a solar year division of 4, the east used the lunar calendar based on the phases of the moon and from moon phases calculated the seasons and dates within them. [This system took into account that some years actually had 13 months and could still effectively plan agricultural and fishing success!] With this kind of calculation, time was divided into segments of four based on the vernal and autumnal equinoxes and the summer and winter solstices. And exactly between these four were the beginning of spring, summer, fall and winter, and between those divisions were the waxing and the waning periods ... totalling 24 seasons.

Sounds complicated, but the "seasons" were efficiently and scientifically calculated to harmonize the predominantly agricultural and fishing society with the subtle climactic changes in the year -- for example, frosts, cold snaps, the warm spring rains, the periods of extreme heat. Following the 24 seasons insured success in both the planting and harvesting and in maritime work.

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Every semester I get truly insightful presentations from my Public Speaking students. While Korea has a history of using the 24 seasons, instead of the typical 4 used by westerners, in the present day and age with a radical drop in agriculture and fishing, the 24-season concept is no longer needed and so for several decades has not been taught. To my huge delight, two Chinese and one Mexican students explored Chinese seasonality for their culture-related presentation. This cyclical clock apparently developed in China but of course was also used in Korea. Thank you Michelle, Xiaohui and Jiayin for providing me with information I've heard about but struggle to find in present-day literature!

This PPT largely represented Chinese culture. While Korea also used a 24-season calendar and there were some cultural foods shared between cultures, e.g. moon cakes / rice cakes on harvest moon day, the majority of seasonal foods are unique to their own specific cultures. For more on Korean "cheolgi" food, GastroTourSeoul gives a "taste" of specific foods and how that food fits on the cheolgi cycle.

Hanok: Traditional Residence Architecture in Seoul

Among the fine traditional Korean houses which have been transported from elsewhere to form the Namsangol Hanok Village, at the foot of Namsan, stands a house built by master craftsman Lee Seung-eop. The house originally stood in Samgak-dong, next to Gwangyo Bridge over Cheonggyecheon stream, but in the course of development and redevelopment, the house recognized as a fine specimen of middle-class architecture, was dismantled and reconstructed in a collection of other hanok to create the Namsangol Hanok Village. The house was originally known as 'Hongmun (Red Gate) Seot-gol (Standing Town), Ibyeokdong-daek (residence of Ibyeokdong)'.

This remarkably fine house with unusual embellishments was built for his own use by Lee Seung-up, the master builder who worked on rebuilding Gyeongbok Palace in the latter half of the 19th century. Gyeongbok Palace, which had fallen into disrepair over many decades, was ordered to be restored by Heungseon Daewongun (1820-1899), the father who ruled in stead of young King Kojong (1852-1919).

Approximately a decade after master carpenter Lee Seung-eop constructed this house, he encountered financial hardships and was forced to sell, whereupon in 1889 the yangban grandfather (Kyoungju Lee clan) of Lee Sang-oak, our tour guide but of no direct relationship to builder Lee, purchased the house. Three generations of Lee (Yi) lived in the house: Yi Chaeyun (1837-1917), Yi Chong'ik (1889-1966), and Yi Yong'u (1917 - ??? [the book was published in 1998]). 

Lee Sang-oak, our guide, was born in this house, as were his two sisters and elder brother. He lived there until 1964 (he was about 20) when the house was sold to P'unghan Company and remodeled. From 1970 - 1996 Cho Heung Bank used the residence as a small bank museum. During that time, in 1977, Seoul city government designated the residence as City Cultural Asset No. 20. And finally in 1996, the house was sold to the City of Seoul along with four other residences around the city and all five were relocated to the north side of Namsan with the intent of making a park for the preservation of traditional architecture.

Guide Lee Sang-Oak told us stories of his growing up, the foods and cultural events enjoyed by the family, the symbolism and in particular the pungsujiri (geomantic principles) employed in the architecture, and other insights about the construction of the home, its impact on King Kojong (story later!), and details about personal life. Whoever really considers the stories the walls can tell if someone is willing to patiently listen!

Dr. Lee Sang-Oak and Brother Anthony, friends that go way back, explaining the topography of Seoul and why the original location of his house was so propitious. Located in front of the "Red Gate" entrance to his former house/courtyard.

Dr Lee Sang-Oak explaining the functions of the various parts of the house ... and how they were originally, and then after "renovation". Basically, as one historian puts it, "the city butchered his house". To give examples, brick walls are now plastered, whitewashed walls, the ondol passageways are minuscule and nonfunctional now, the traditional three-steps leading to the house were reduced to the convenient one. [Three steps up meant as a person approached house of prestige or standing, the visitor had to look up and be struck by the grandeur created by height.

Evidently the Namsangol Falconer's Organization has an operator here. There was always a stream of kids around the guy with his kestrel and his falcon. He didn't mind if people touched the larger bird either ... and the bird didn't seem to mind either!

For W5,000 a person could have the kestrel fly and land on his or her hand.

Petting was encouraged!

"Commercial" over, now back to Dr. Lee Sang-Oak. Dr. Lee showed up the geomantic symbols. The whole house had symbols hidden on walls, corners. roof beams, and more.

Pungsujiri (geomatric symbols here): the inverted swastika for Buddhistic thought, bats, trigrams like those found on the Korean flag (each trigram represents a humor: earth, air, etc), clouds, patterned windows for well wishes, ...

 

Originally this was the men's residence and was just a single room. Now it's divided into guest residence rooms for privacy.

Even the bird looks at the woman in hanbok gliding around the grounds.

A bit of entertainment for the foreigners and kids who visit the hanok village: "Walk Like a Yangban". Walking like a yangban was to walk confidently (thus, the wide appearing tiles for "authentic" practice),

The Red Moon Gate, the single entrance to the house: Originally the gate stood tall and proud like this one. What's interesting is that when there were no high-rises, King Kojong could look out of Gyeongbokgung and see ... the Red Moon Gate, and supposedly, discomfited he asked, "Whose gate is that?" And once he found out ... the Lee family was asked, which means told, to lower the gate so that King Kojong wouldn't see a gate taller than himself in the near distance. Of course they lowered the house ... and had to bend way down in order to enter, which conveyed indirectly humility to the king.

A spring look at Dr. Lee's former residence.

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About our guide and the author of the book on his first home:

Book: A Traditional Residential Architecture in Seoul: A Study of the Yi Byeokdong Residence of Hongmun-dong (1998), Hollym University Press.

Sang-Oak Lee earned his B.A. and M.A. from Seoul National University, an additional M.A. from the University of Illinois, and a Ph.D. in Linguistics with a doctoral fellowship from Harvard University. He is now an emeritus professor at Seoul National University, where he was for many years a professor in the Department of Korean Language and Literature.

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The essentials about the house -- from Dr. Lee Sang-Oak's book (pp 10-13).

The Powerful Korean Passport

 And just how many countries can the Korean passport holder gain access to without having to get a visa? 147 overall! The Korea Foundation Newsletter, in their October publication, shows the Korean passport has gained country border permeability and breaks that mobility range down into countries per continent. It also states that "The Korean passport belongs to the world's powerful group of passports, and is ranked one of the most powerful passports in Asia." 

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VISA POLICY OF SOUTH KOREA (Wikipedia, last updated 24 Oct 2018)

VISA POLICY MAP:
Map of countries with visa-free entry or visa waiver agreements with South Korea.

Visa-free entry

Holders of passports issued by the following 117 jurisdictions do not require a visa to enter South Korea for up to the limit listed below:^[

180 days  Canada 90 days  European Union citizens (except Cyprus and Portugal)1 2  Antigua and Barbuda  Australia  Bahamas  Barbados  Brazil  Chile  Colombia  Costa Rica  Dominica  Dominican Republic  Ecuador  El Salvador  Grenada  Guatemala  Haiti  Hong Kong  Iceland  Israel  Jamaica  Japan  Kuwait  Liberia  Liechtenstein  Macau  Malaysia  Mexico  Morocco  New Zealand  Nicaragua  Norway  Panama  Peru  Saint Kitts and Nevis  Saint Lucia  Saint Vincent and the Grenadines  Serbia  Singapore  Suriname   Switzerland  Taiwan  Thailand  Trinidad and Tobago  Turkey  United Arab Emirates  United States  Uruguay  Venezuela 1 - For British passport holders, only British citizens and British National (Overseas) enjoy visa-free entry. 2 - Except for French passports issued in New Caledonia. 60 days  Lesotho  Portugal  Russia 30 days  Albania  Andorra  Argentina  Bahrain  Bosnia and Herzegovina  Brunei  Cyprus  eSwatini  Fiji  Guyana  Honduras  Kazakhstan  Kiribati  Marshall Islands  Mauritius  Micronesia  Monaco  Montenegro  Nauru  New Caledonia3  Oman  Palau  Paraguay  Qatar  Samoa  San Marino  Saudi Arabia  Seychelles  Solomon Islands  South Africa  Tonga  Tunisia  Tuvalu   Vatican City 3 - For French passports issued in New Caledonia.

showDate of visa changes

South Korea Government plans to introduce electronic travel authorization system for visa-free foreign visitors.

Special policy

If traveling by air to Jeju Island via Seoul, Busan, Cheongju, Muan and Yangyang, citizens of China who are traveling as part of a tourist group with an authorized travel agent may stay in mainland South Korea for up to 5 days. They may remain in Jeju for 15 days.

Nationals of  North Korea seeking to visit South Korea must submit the North/South Korea visitation verification certificate and the Departure card to the Immigration Officer at the immigration port and go through immigration inspection.

Non-ordinary passports

  South Korea

  Visa-free access for diplomatic and service category passports

  Visa-free access for diplomatic passports

Holders of diplomatic or service category passports of the following countries may enter without a visa:

Algeria D O  Angola D O S  Armenia D O  Azerbaijan D O S  Bangladesh D O  Belarus D O S  Belize D O  Benin D O  Bolivia D O  Cape Verde D O  Cambodia D O S  China D S  India D O  Indonesia D S  Iran D O S

Gabon D O  Georgia D O  Kyrgyzstan D O  Laos D O  Lebanon D O  Moldova D O S  Mongolia D O  Mozambique D O  Myanmar D O  Pakistan D O S  Philippines D S  Tajikistan D O  Turkmenistan D  Uzbekistan D

_{D: diplomatic passports
O: official passports
S: service passports}

Holders of diplomatic or service category passports of the following countries enjoy an extended length of stay when compared to ordinary passports:

Austria: 180 days  Argentina: 90 days  Cyprus: 90 days  Egypt: 90 days  Kazakhstan: 90 days  Paraguay: 90 days  Russia: 90 days

In addition, holders of laissez-passers issued by the  United Nations are visa exempt for 30 days.

Visa waiver agreements for diplomatic and service passports were signed with Vanuatu in December 2017 and Tanzania in July 2018 and are yet to be ratified.

Transit

In general, travelers in transit do not require a visa to transit through South Korea for less than 24 hours (for Incheon Airport) or when departing on the same calendar day (for all other airports) as long as they stay within the transit area.

Citizens of the following countries, however, must hold a Korean visa for transit:

Egypt  Sudan  Syria  Yemen

The South Korean government has special visa waiver policies for passengers in transit, which are listed below.

Transit Tourism Program

Travelers who are in transit through Incheon International Airport can participate in an organized transit tour group within Seoul. The service is free but an entry-procedure fee of KRW 10,000 or USD 10 applies. The tour can be registered in advance or joined after the traveler's arrival, and the shortest tour lasts for an hour while the longest will not exceed 5 hours.

Nationals of the following countries, as well as stateless persons and refugees, are not eligible for this service:

Afghanistan  Bangladesh  Cameroon  Cuba  Egypt  Gambia

Ghana  Iran  Iraq  Kyrgyzstan  Macedonia  Myanmar

Nepal  Nigeria  Pakistan  Palestine  Senegal  Somalia

Sri Lanka  Sudan  Syria  Uzbekistan  Yemen

30-day visa exemption

Non visa-exempt nationals who are in transit through South Korea are visa-exempt for 30 days, provided they hold a physical visa or a residence permit issued by the following countries, and meet one of the routing requirements:

• They are directly arriving in South Korea from one of these countries and going to a third country, or directly leaving South Korea to one of these countries after arriving from a third country; or,
• They are arriving in South Korea from one of these countries and have transited in a fourth country for less than 72 hours before entering South Korea, and continuing to a third country; or,
• They are leaving South Korea after arriving from a third country to one of these countries and will be transiting in a fourth country for less than 72 hours.

Australia  Canada  New Zealand  United States

_{1 - Holders of e-visas or e-resident permits are only permitted visa-free entry if they depart from Australia.}

In addition, holders of  Chinese passports who also hold a physical visa or a residence permit issued by an EEA member state or Switzerland, or a group visa issued by Japan and traveling with the tour group, can also enjoy visa-free transit for 30 days.

This policy does not apply to the following nationalities:

Afghanistan  Bangladesh  Cameroon  Cuba  Egypt  Gambia

Ghana  Iran  Iraq  Kosovo  Kyrgyzstan  Macedonia

Myanmar    Nepal  North Korea  Nigeria  Pakistan  Palestine

Senegal  Somalia  Sri Lanka  Sudan  Syria  Uzbekistan

Yemen

Nationality evaluation

Under article 20 of the Nationality Act, North Koreans and Sakhalin Koreans are eligible for the evaluation of nationality. The evaluation is used to determine whether one possesses South Korean nationality based on the Nationality Act of South Korea.

As a part of the evaluation process, the applicant's personal history, family ties, migration history and current nationality (if any) will be examined by the Ministry of Justice. Successful applicants will be allowed to acquire South Korean nationality (in case of North Koreans) or have their South Korean nationality reinstated (for first-generation Sakhalin Koreans). Descendants of first-generation Sakhalin Koreans may be eligible for South Korean nationality through either express naturalization or reinstatement.

Jeju Island

All ordinary passport holders except the following can stay visa-free 30 days in Jeju Province.

Afghanistan  Bangladesh  Cameroon  Cuba  Egypt  Gambia  Ghana  Iran  Iraq  North Korea  Kosovo  Kyrgyzstan

Macedonia  Myanmar  Nigeria  Pakistan  Palestine  Senegal  Somalia  Sri Lanka  Sudan  Syria  Uzbekistan  Yemen

However, the above-mentioned nationalities are eligible if holding a Certificate of Invitation issued by Jeju Island Immigration Office, or have previous visited South Korea for 3 times since 1996 or once since 2006 while holding permanent residence permits issued by Australia, Canada, New Zealand or the United States.

APEC Business Travel Card

Holders of passports issued by the following countries who possess an APEC Business Travel Card (ABTC) containing the "KOR" code on the reverse that it is valid for travel to South Korea can enter visa-free for business trips for up to 90 days.

ABTCs are issued to nationals of:

Australia  Brunei  Chile  China  Hong Kong  Indonesia  Japan  Malaysia  Mexico

New Zealand  Papua New Guinea  Peru  Philippines  Russia  Singapore  Taiwan  Thailand  Vietnam

South Korean visas

South Korea provides visas to cover various approved activities in country.

Working Holiday Visa (H-1)

The Working Holiday Visa (H-1) is issued to young-adult foreigners in some countries which have reciprocal agreements with South Korea. Holders are allowed to stay in the country for up to one year and engage in some employment activities as well as some educational activities. However, the main purpose of the trip is intended to be vacation. People between the ages of 18 and 25 or 30, depending on the country, are eligible for a South Korean working holiday visa. A working holiday visa holder cannot be employed in certain jobs such as receptionist, dancer, singer, musician, acrobat, or in places of entertainment where they may endanger good morals and manners.

Overseas Study (D-2) visa...

Corporate Investment (D-8) visa...
Foreign Language teaching (E-2) visa...
Residency (F-2) visa...