Jangsaengpo Whale Museum

Jangsaengpo Whale Museum opened its doors on May 31, 2005 and is the only whale museum in Korea. The museum and corresponding Ecology Experience Hall are located in Jangsaengpo, the historical heart of whale hunting. The museum seeks to collect, preserve, and display artifacts and information about whales, which are slowly disappearing despite the moratorium on whaling in Korea since December 31, 1985.

While the museum and ecology hall are very informative and educational for kids, the Ecology Experience Hall has one major drawback. It claims "ecology" via nomenclature but it is not ecological to the handful of dolphins inside. The Ecology Experience Hall opened on November 24, 2009 because of growing popularity with the Whale Museum, and it boasts the first and so far only (thank goodness!) dolphin aquarium in Korea. I say thank goodness because the dolphins have a very tiny bathtub to swim around in 24/7. Yes, they give a few shows to break up monotony, but they are clearly unhappy. They swim in circles, mostly counter-clockwise, smacking their heads repeatedly on the water surface. This behavior disturbed me so much that I googled it and found that, yes, it is tell-tale behavior for boredom, unease, and stress. Spectators might think that the dolphins are playing but the creatures really have no where to play. They have to swim, but there's not much space for their big bodies to swim in. Spectators come in for the 15-30 minute shows, maybe play some on their smart phones while waiting, then watch, and immediately stream out. The visitor area is larger than the aquarium, and the dolphins never leave. The aquarium in the Ecology Experience Hall might be fun and entertaining for people as they flow quickly past, but it's no picnic for the several dolphins that are confined in there for life. Not much of an ecology center if you ask me.

Whales and Dolphins in Korean Waters

This list of whales was painted on a wall at the Jangsaengpo Whale Museum. I rather doubt a few of them were ever in Korean waters, but I didn't make this list. It seems that the listing is based on sightings of the creatures in Korean waters at some point in history.

In any case, the whales/dolphins/porpoises in red are the ones that typically are seen migrating off the Ulsan coast.

보리고래 - (Sel whale) 18m, 30ton
대왕고래 - (Blue whale) 30m, 179ton
쿤부리고래 - (Baird's beaked whale) 12m, 1.2ton
향고래 - (Sperm whale) 18m, 57ton
귀신고래 - (Gray whale) 16m, 35ton - (spring & late fall)
참고래 - (Fin whale) 26.8m, 75ton
밍크고래 - (Minke whale) 8.6m, 12ton (spring & late fall)
긴부리고래 - (Spinner dolphin) 2.4m, 90kg
북방긴수염고래 - (Northern right whale) 18m, 100ton
부리아드고래 - (Bryde's whale) 12m, 22ton
쇠돌고래 - (Harbor porpoise) 2m, 90kg
은행이빨부리고래 - (Gingko-toothed beaked whale) 4.9m, 2ton
상광이 -  (Finless porpoise) 1.9m, 45kg (spring)
흑등고래 - (Humpback whale) 16m, 35ton
고양이고래 - (Melon-headed whale) 2.6m, 275kg
범고래 - (Killer whale) 9.8m, 10ton
들고양이고래 - (Pygmy killer whale) 2.6m, 225kg
참돌고래 - (Common dolphin) 2.3m, 135kg (winter)
까치동고래 - (Dall's porpoise) 2.4m, 220kg
낫돌고래 - (Pacific white-sided dolphin) 2.3m, 150kg
점박이돌고래 - (Pantropical spotted dolphin) 2.6m, 120kg
혹부리고래 - (Blainville's beaked whale) 4.7m, 1ton
민부리고래 - (Cuvler's beaked whale) 7.5m, 3ton
꼬미향고래 - (Pygmy sperm whale) 3.4m, 400kg
들쇠고래 - (Short-finned pilot whale) 6.1m, 3.6ton
큰이빨부리고래 - (Stejneger's beaked whale) 5m, 1.5ton
흑범고래 - (False killer whale) 6.1m, 2.2ton
큰돌고래 - (Bottle-nose dolphin) 3.9m, 600kg
추돌고래 - (Northern right whale dolphin) 3.1m, 115kg
줄발이돌고래 - (Striped dolphin) 2.6m, 156kg
흰고래 - (Beluga / white whale) 4.5m, 1.5ton
쿤머리돌고래 - (Risso's dolphin) 4m, 500kg
쇠향고래 - (Dwarf sperm whale) 2.7m, 272kg
뱀머리돌고래 - (Rough-toothed dolphin) 2.8m, 150kg

Whale food and products

This information was found in the museum. Supposedly whale meat is only served legally in Jangsaengpo, and people flock from all parts of Korea to have the whale meat eating experience. Though it is common knowledge that whale meat is only served in Jangsaengpo, a couple of years ago there was a flower festival in Seoul and in the festival were some very strange foods like baby chicks fried whole. Whale meat was also served, and I remember being completely surprised because I knew of the Korean moratorium on whaling.

Though there is a moratoriam, whales are washed up, hit by boats, "die" in undocumented ways and there is always plenty of whale meat in Jangsaengpo. Makes me wonder... Anyway, the posting introducing the types of whale meat:

Food Made of Whale Meat 

Whale meat is famous for its 12 different tastes and colors with parts. Dishes made from whale meat vary, including assorted raw whale meat, whale stew, steamed whale meat, whale steak, canned whale meat, and whale curry.

The whale dish of Ulsan won the Bronze Prize in the 2nd Seafood Dish Competition in the 2006 Seoul World Tourism Food Exhibition. Winning the prize became the momentum to further the development of a special cuisine made from whale meat.

Foods derived from whale include edible oil, margarine, capsules, calcium, bacon, sausage, canned food, bread and cake, which are mainly derived from the whale's fat, cartilage, bone, belly and red meat.

Whale meat is selected as the leading delicacy in Ulsan, and it has become such a favorite that visitors to Ulsan are said to have been treated well only when they have tasted whale meat.

Whale meat drew national attention as the Jangsaengpo-dong, Nam-gu became famous as the largest whaling outpost in Korea, attracting whaling aficionados to Ulsan. When whaling was prohibited in 1986 and whaling disappeared, Ulsan became the only place where you can taste real whale meat in Korea.

Whale meat is good in the prevention of adult diseases because of the fat and high protein content. The meat is healthful and rich in iron and other ingredients, and it is often prescribed for dermatitis and allergy.

Jangsaengpo is famous as the place in Korea where cuisine based on whale meat was first developed. In the heydays of whaling, there were about 30 restaurants in Ulsan serving whale meat. these days, such restaurants can only be found in Jangsaengpo.

And of course there are (or were) many products made from whale meat and product:

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Location and other nearby related attractions

The museum and ecology hall are located right on the waterfront. Across the small street facing the waterfront is a string of a dozen or more restaurants all marketing whale meat in some form. I wanted a vegetarian meal but there was none to be had, so I had to take the bus back into Ulsan to get my veggies. The closest dish to vegetarian that I could have gotten was bibimbop with the raw whale meat removed. It didn't look appealing without its central attraction.

Pricey ... but that's one of the costs of novelty.

Jangsaengpo is recognized as the migration site of Gray Whales and supposedly the only spot from the peninsula from which whales can be seen. Therefore, this spot has been designated Natural Monument No. 126.

For those wanting to see whales (of course pay attention to seasons - noted in the red characters in the list above), then there are two boat routes visitors can take to go whale spotting.

The present cost for an adult to go whale-spotting is W15,000 (route on right) or W20,000 (left pictured route).
For more info, http://whalecity.kr  //  (032) 226-1990~1

For bus numbers getting here and to some nearby sites, go to Ulsan Tour of Ancient History: Munmu Tombs, Petroglyphs, Whaling.

Brief History and Politics of Jogye Temple,

The Jogye Temple was established in 1395 at the dawn of the Joseon Dynasty, and since that time the Jogye Order has emerged as the largest order of Buddhism in South Korea. In 1910 at the beginning of the Japanese occupation period, the temple Gakhwangsa was constructed by monks who desired independence for Korean Buddhism. The Japanese had their own form of Buddhism, Zen, while Seon Buddhism was the Korean style. Though both had the same origin, the cultures they were introduced into affected social and ritual differences.

Despite cultural differences between Zen and Seon Buddhism, Gakhwangsa Temple served as a spiritual backbone for Korean people during Japanese occupation. Much of Korea's traditional Buddhist heritage was destroyed during occupation, but Gakhwangsa was known to have retained some of the core spirit and history of Korean Buddhism.

In 1937 Gakhwangsan was relocated to its present address, and the following year it was renamed as Taegosa (Great Old Temple) because it was the treasure-house for maintaining Korean Buddhism traditions. Taegosa was a temple originally founded in 1341 AD by the monk Taego-Bo-U, who was instrumental in reviving Korean Buddhism during a period of decline.

After the Japanese occupation period, in 1954, the Buddhist Purification Movement was established and, in their attempts to purge the Japanese effects of Buddhism from Korean-style Buddhism,  and Buddhism in South Korea came to be separated mainly by celibacy vows. The name Jogye for the unmarried monks was created, and the Taego Temple renamed the Jogye Temple, and it became over time the central temple for the Jogye Order. In later years the separation between the celibates and the monks who could marry, a kickback from the Japanese era, led to the stratification of Buddhism, namely, the Taego Order which allowed monks to marry, and the Jogye Order which enforced vows of celibacy. Of course there were other practices that separated the two orders.

Celebrations at the Jogye Temple increase as Buddha's birthday approaches. Every year the decorations for Buddha's birthday become more and more elaborate. See pictures of Jogyesa in 2009, 2010, and 2012.

Each colorful lotus blossom represents an individual prayer.

And the prayers are many and crowd the clouds.

The name, Jogye

The name Jogye is taken from a mountain where the Sixth Patriarch of Chinese Ch'an Buddhism, Hulneng (638-713 AD), lived. Master Hulneng, though born poor and illiterate, attained enlightenment on hearing the Diamond Sutra being chanted. As the story goes, he later was recognized by the Fifth Patriarch and became his successor. The name, Jogye, therefore is metaphysically linked to the attainment of enlightenment.

The temple grounds

The main hall houses a relatively small Buddha of unknown origin. Behind the Buddha statue is a traditional painting with the central figure being Sakyamuni—the Historical Buddha—guardians, some of Buddha's disciples. Bodhisatttvas, and others flanking him. On both sides are cases containing sutras carved on wooden blocks. The central shrine is surrounded by hundreds of Buddhas; they are symbolic of many Buddhas in the universe. The order of greatness in a Buddhist temple is determined by spiritual attainment of enlightenment, as I understand it:

Buddha

bodhisattva

araha

4 heavenly kings

attendants (includes Buddha's disciples?)

To the left of the main hall is the bell pavilion where hangs the drum, the bell, the gong and the fish—instruments used to regulate temple life and call all sentient beings to listen to the liberating words of Buddha being chanted every evening. When calling all animals, first the drum is rhythmically beaten. Then the large bell calls all who suffer and live in realms of torment; in the morning it is struck 28 times, in the evening 33 times. Then the cloud-shaped gong calls all beings of the air. Finally the log-carved-into-a-fish (with its never blinking eyes symbolic of continual awareness) calls all creatures from the water. Every day of the year, a monk is in charge of sounding these instruments at 4 a.m. and 6 p.m.

In front of the main hall is a seven-storied pagoda said to contain a relic of the Buddha brought by a Sri Lankan monk in 1914. Also beside the main hall is a 500-year-old (baeksong) lacebark white pine tree reportedly brought from China. This type of tree grows and reproduces very slowly and today is very rare. This tree was so highly valued that it was moved from its previous site at Gakhwangsa Temple to its present location. In 1962 the Korean government designated it as a Natural Monument. Also in the compound is a 450-year-old Chinese scholar tree, a tree that is planted near Buddhist temples and palaces as it is believed that they convert negative energy into positive energy and happiness. The Chinese name for the tree (槐) is composed of the word 木 ("wood") and 鬼 ("demon"). In folklore, it is said that a cowherd once built a home out of this species of tree, and within a month his entire family was suddenly found dead, with no signs of foul play. It was therefore believed that demons are drawn to this tree and it is therefore not appropriate to use its wood to build homes, but it is useful for luring demons away from other wood constructions. In temples and palaces it is deemed to alter luck and bring good fortune.

Pungsujiri? (Geomancy?)

Jogyesa Temple is the only major temple within the old city walls of Seoul. In 1937 the temple Gakhwangsa was relocated within the four great walls of Seoul, something unprecedented and unthought of in the Joseon Dynasty. The temple was renamed Taegosa and, reading between the lines, it seems to be another move of the Japanese to control and subdue the Korea spirit and their sense of the religious, especially as it was located not very far from the front gate of Kyoungbokgung, the largest palace, and positioned central to all of the palace structures and precisely between the Sajik and Jongmyo Shrines. Two of the four most important Confucian ritual ceremonies were held at these two shrines: Jongmyo for memorial services to the 19 tablets of Confucian kings of the Joseon Dynasty, and Sajik Shrine for ceremonial prayers and petitions to the gods to bless earth and crops. When performed correctly, these rituals guaranteed order and success for the rule of the nation.

A crafty move to position a Buddhist temple center-most amongst the five Korean palaces and positioned precisely between the two foremost shrines of the Korean nation, which became more and more a suppressed colony.

Therefore, when looking at the order and structure of the city, selecting the site for the Taegosa Temple was a well-thought-out move on the Japanese part to further break the spirits of Koreans and to break their connections of ki (energy) and pungsujiri. Both the Japanese and Koreans highly believed in geomantic principles, so locating a Buddhist temple amidst the Confucian-planned city appears to be a determined move to break the pungsujiri and flow of connected energy to the nation.

Sungkyunkwan University Steeped in Confucianism

In 1398, the 7th year of the reign of King Taejo, Sungkyunkwan seowon (Confucian school) was transferred from Gaesong to Hanyang, now Seoul. The university as we know it today traces its history back to this date; however, Sungkyunkwan University did not exist as a university back in 1398 but rather as a Confucian school for the elite. And for nearly 400 years it functioned as an elitist school open only to a tiny crumb of the population who were both wealthy, well-connected and of proper descent, meaning no sons of concubines no matter how highly positioned the father might be. Namely, only the sons morally connected through hierarchical social structuring - firm values of Confucianism - could attend the Confucian school.

In 1895, the seowon educational criteria was expanded upon and a variety of courses in history, geography and mathematics was launched, thus, the beginning of a myeongryung. It is my understanding that the myeongryung courses were not offered in the seowon but in the large space adjacent. At this time because of the missionaries entering Korea and the concepts of Western education being introduced, a new style of education became desirable, that is, the focus on science and mathematics and social development. Therefore, a new form of entrance exam, determined semester requirements, and how lectures would be conducted in more modern education but still adhering the principles of Confucianism shaped the myeongryung.

During the Japanese colonial period, education of the masses pretty much came to a standstill. For the few who were given higher education or "elite" education, those scholars then had to travel to Japan and attend Japanese-operated universities and educational facilities there. However, after the Japanese colonial period, Kim Chang-suk had educational dreams for Korea and as an educational visionary reopened the myeongryung after the liberation of Japan and restructuring it into a modern-day university. Kim Chang-suk became the first president of what is now Sungkyunkwan University. The university is proud of this educational history and claims the full 600-year history as part of the history of Sungkyunkwan University itself, making it the oldest educational center in Korea. With this history in mind and with on-going respect given to Kim Chang-suk for founding the modern-day learning center, a statue has been erected in front of the Central Library (#08). The statue is on a hill that overlooks the campus to the south - the Millennium Building and onward to the Sungkyunkwan seowon itself.

Kim Chang-suk (1879-1962), styled name Simsan, was a scion for Confucianism and patriotism. His entire life was devoted to the annihilation of the Japanese colonial rule. He posted a letter to the Paris Peace Conference (1919) signed by 137 Confucianists leaders; he raised funds from wealthy Confucians to operate a military against Japanese colonial rule; he  was eventually arrested by the Japanese and tortured until crippled. With the demise of colonialism, he ardently pursued education with the values he upheld to be righteous, Confucianism. Even under Korean rule, the rule of Rhee Syngman, he criticized the autocratic government and was imprisoned several times. He died penniless in 1962, yet he was mourned by the whole nation and given a public funeral.

Because of the Confucian Sungkyunkwan seowon from which it took its name and because of the fierce leadership of Kim Chang-suk, the university was established on Confucian principles. In fact, with its uniqueness as a university stemming from a Confucian seowon, a course in Confucianism was mandatory and set as a core class for all students. Only until around 2000 was this core class dropped from the program and offered merely as an elective to students.

With Sungkyunkwan University's rich history being intimately entwined with the socio-political structuring of Confucianism, three of the central buildings and some of the iconography around campus either allude to Confucian principles or to great Confucian scholars or principle social players.

Sungkyunkwan University campus map with Sungkyunkwan seowon (in low right)
tap to enlarge

In a salute to the early principles of which the university stems, three of the central buildings are named after famous Confucians:

• Toegye Hall of Humanities (#12) is named after Yi Hwang (1501-1570), a child prodigy who later wrote poetry and philosophy. He immersed himself in the study of Neo-confucianism, graduated from Sungkyunkwan seowon and later became daesaseong (head instructor) of Sungkyunkwan seowon in 1552. 

• Dasan Hall of Economics (#11) is named after Jeong Yak-yong (1792-1830), pen name Dasan, meaning "mountain of tea". Dasan was considered one of the greatest thinkers of his time. He attended Sungkyunkwan, wrote highly influential books, held significant administrative positions, and was noted as a poet. His philosophical position is often linked with the Silhak (practical learning school).

• Hoam Hall (#13) derives its name from Lee Byung-cheol (1910-1987), founder of the Samsung Group and one of Korea's most successful businessmen. Hoam basically is 'ho' lake and 'am' large rock. Lee Byung-cheol took Hoam as his art or pen name as the name literally means "filling up space with clear water as lakes do, and being unshakable as a large rock". 

The Millennium Building (#07) otherwise known as the 600th Anniversary Building (built in 1999) is to commemorate the founding philosophy of the university. This building houses the president's office and the main core of the administration. In the basement is a university museum which has court music instruments, aged documents, among other artifacts as well as a gallery of early pictures of Korea by Japanese Fujita Ryosaku, an archaeologist who took pictures of ancient stone constructions, including Seokguram, in the Koreas. Several of his pictures excavating Seokguram and other sites are in the museum photo gallery.

This new logo was fashioned around 2005 when many of the universities in Seoul suddenly refashioned their logo/school emblem. The previous logo was also of a gingko leaf but much less stylized and only dual-colored. Overnight the university shuttle buses were painted with the new logo, all etch-glassed doors were replaced (imagine a lot of doors!). Classroom signs had logos as did classroom podiums; these were replaced last but within a couple of weeks, the old logos were simply a thing of the past!

The logo of Sungkyunkwan University also reflects the principles of Confucianism. The curve of the "S" standing for Sungkyunkwan (University) is part of the gingko leaf that symbolizes the spirit of the university. This gingko leaf plays a uniquely significant part in Confucian history as Confucius is said to have taught his students under a gingko tree, and gingko trees were planted in all Confucius shrines and schools of Korea. Even in the Sungkyunkwan seowon, there are two very large and very old gingko trees, one about 500 years old. They are of massive size and the only remaining feature of the original seowon, which was destroyed by fire. Sungkyunkwan was in fact destroyed by fire twice, one time during the Japanese invasion of Korea in 1592, and the trees do in fact show residual evidence of having been damaged by fire in some time past.

One of the two trees, both male as only males could enter and attend a seowon and the same evidently applied to tree gender, is believed to have been planted by Yun Tak, the daesaseong, around 1519 in the 14th year of King Jungjong. Together the trees have been designated as Natural Monument No. 59. Even during Japanese occupation, they were appreciated for their great age and similarly appointed as natural monuments by the Japanese.

Layout of Sungkyunkwan seowon

Sungkyunkwan has dual purpose although they - Sungkyunkwan University and Sungkyunkwan seowon - are not really affiliated. Sungkyunkwan University focuses on education while Sungkyunkwan seowon focused on education and the ceremonial; the ceremonial is the primary function of the seowon at present.

Three buildings at the Sungkyunkwan seowon are of special note to the above map and play an important part in the ceremonies currently held. 

Bicheondang - Built in 1664, the name of Bicheondang implies "enlightening the great way" as cited from the famous Confucianist Chu Xi. This building, as well as Myeongnyundang, was a site for the state examination. The present building was reconstructed in 1988 on the site of the original, which burned down during the Korean War (1950-1953).

Myeongnyundang - The lecture hall was the setting for lessons about Confucianism to students. It was established in 1398 but was destroyed during the Japanese Invasion of Korea in 1592. In the 39th year of the Syeon Dynasty (1606), it was reestablihed. Myeongnyundang was used as the place to carry out the test for the students of Confucianism.

On the W1000 bill is the famed Confucian lecture hall, the Myeongnyundan

Daeseongjeon - Memorial tablets of Confucius and his followers are enshrined in Daeseongjeon. The calligraphy on the board over the gate is the work of Seokbong Han Ho, one of the greatest calligraphers during the Joseon Dynasty period. Originally built in 1398, this building burned down during the invasion of 1592 and was rebuilt in 1602. The shrine, also known as Munmyo Shrine, is an excellent example of the architecture of the time. (Treasure no. 141)

Notice the "spirit walk" on which humans are not to trod but is reserved for the entering and exiting of spirits
 during Confucian rites and ceremonies for welcoming and venerating the spirits.

Jongyeounggak - although not numbered on the map, this building is recognized as Korea's oldest library. The building no longer contains books because of the humidity not being regulated within the building; nevertheless, this building still ranks highly as historically important.