Showing posts with label national treasure. Show all posts
Showing posts with label national treasure. Show all posts

Friday, November 29, 2019

Heavenly Nymphs - 'bicheon'

"Celestial Nymphs, Heavenly Maidens to Transmit the Buddha's Voice: Playing Instruments and Scattering Flowers in Praise of the Buddha"

Celestial nymphs (bicheon) are a type of heavenly being who give offerings and praise to the Buddha by playing instruments, dancing and sprinkling flowers. Though unseen by ordinary people, they fly at will with their supernatural powers. Wherever Buddhas teach or bodhisattvas reside, celestial nymphs fly over them and sprinkle flowers or play instruments. How were these attractive celestial nymphs, who float in the air with their heavenly robes fluttering, introduced to Korea from India through China? Let’s see where these celestial nymphs are found in a temple compound, and further explore the music and instruments they play.

Celestial nymphs are mythological beings that symbolize the beauty and peace of the Buddha realm, the ideal world of Buddhism. As an artistic expression of our desire to fly as well, celestial nymphs can be compared to the angels of Western mythology. However, unlike Western angels who need wings, celestial nymphs of the East, especially those depicted in Buddhism, have much more freedom. The idea that one can fly without wings is a somewhat novel concept by itself. Perhaps celestial nymphs are just an expression of our own inner desire to fly without the aid of wings.

Originating in the Indian districts of Gandhara and Mathura, the concept of celestial nymphs was introduced to China via the Silk Road and then to Korea. A depiction of male and female celestial beings sprinkling flowers is one of the oldest examples of Indian art. In Indian mythology they were considered low ranking devas, and the females were called apsaras or devatas. The most often depicted image of celestial nymphs, afloat in the air with celestial robes fluttering, is reminiscent of the legendary Daoist fairies, but in fact, originally, they were not considered that beautiful. In Indian mythology, depictions of celestial nymphs evolved from images of gandharvas or kinnaras, which may have been animals or birds; nobody is quite sure. They often had a human head and a bird-like body or a horse head with a human body. They evolved into more of a fairy image in China and Korea where imported Buddhist thought coexisted with China’s concept of Daoist hermits. The celestial nymphs depicted in the Dunhuang grottoes had already been transformed into the elegant and charming images of Daoist legends. These beautiful Chinese-style celestial nymphs were introduced to Korea in the late 4th century during Korea’s Three Kingdoms Period, along with Buddhism. After some changes in style, celestial nymphs were established in Korea as what we now call bicheon.

Korea’s Celestial Nymphs Transformed into Beautiful Fairies

Already transformed in China into attractive Daoist fairies, in Korea, celestial nymphs were depicted as beings who could freely soar into the sky or descend to earth draped in fluttering celestial robes. They first appeared in Korea in the murals of Goguryeo dynasty tombs, and on a queen’s pillow discovered in the Muryeong Royal Tomb of the Baekje kingdom. During the Unified Silla era, celestial nymphs appeared as decorative motifs on the nimbi and pedestals of Buddha statues, and on metal artworks such as temple bells and sarira utensils. 

Celestial nymphs in Goguryeo’s ancient tombs have nimbi, their half-naked bodies are elegantly curved, and their robes and wide waistbands, depicted in sophisticated artistic techniques, convey the freedom and feeling of soaring. They look free and unhindered. In murals they convey a sense of the Buddha realm through their total freedom. 

This evolution of Korea’s celestial nymphs continued on the Bronze Bell of Sangwonsa Temple (National Treasure no. 36). The most exquisite of Korean flying celestial nymph images are found on this temple bell, located on Mt. Odaesan. Though rather small in size, the Bronze Bell of Sangwonsa Temple has a multitude of celestial nymphs on its surface, giving the impression they are dancing in sequence. They are depicted playing a lute and a wind instrument called a saenghwang. Their robes flutter upward from the ascending air currents, and the vegetal design on their waistbands heightens their allure. Another temple bell similar in stature to the Bronze Bell of Sangwonsa Temple is the Bell of King Seongdeok (National Treasure no. 29), aka Emille Bell, which is housed in the Gyeongju National Museum. Production of the bell was begun by Silla’s King Gyeongdeok to honor his father King Seongdeok, but it was completed in 771 by his successor, King Hyegong. The bell is known for its aesthetic beauty and graceful form, along with its clear, deep sound. 

Unlike the celestial nymphs on the Bronze Bell of Sangwonsa Temple, those on the Bell of King Seongdeok are presenting offerings to the Buddha, probably because the bell was crafted to pray for the eternal repose of the deceased King Seongdeok. Seated on opposite sides of the dangjwa, the bell’s striking point, two exquisite celestial nymphs captivate even modern designers. Holding lotuses in their open palms, they are kneeling on lotus pedestals. Their cascading robes and necklaces fluttering in the wind, they make offerings while encircled by large and small floral scrolls from heaven. Artworks that are dazzling typically lack loftiness, and lofty artworks typically lack luxuriousness. However, the celestial nymphs on the Emille Bell are both lofty and luxurious. They exude stillness in the midst of movement, and hint at movement in their stillness. 

Although these celestial nymphs are typically inscribed on cold, hard surfaces, such as bells and walls, their free and joyful postures evoke thoughts of subtle music and beautiful scenes of the Pure Land. Singing of the limitless freedom and beauty of the Buddha realm, and the inexhaustible truth of the Buddha, celestial nymphs are eternal symbols that embody the ideals of modern Buddhists. 

Why the Bell of King Seongdeok is called the Emille Bell 

On exhibit in the Gyeongju National Museum, the Bell of King Seongdeok (National Treasure No. 29) is also called the “Emille Bell,” based on a heartbreaking legend. Silla’s King Gyeongdeok wanted to craft a bell for Bongdeoksa Temple to honor his deceased father, King Seongdeok. Although several bells were made, their sound never earned the king’s approval. To augment their sincere devotion, monks began to solicit donations from subjects. One day, a woman from an impoverished family donated her daughter as she had nothing else to give, and legend says the child was put into the molten bronze to make a new bell. When the bell was rung, everyone heard “Emille… Emille…” as if the child was calling her mother. And that’s why it came to be called the “Emille Bell.” Is it true that a child was sacrificed to make a bell? Buddhists don’t even kill insects as Buddhism prohibits all killing. So how could Buddhists make a temple bell, which is supposed to save sentient beings, by sacrificing a child? A scientific analysis of the metal in the bell revealed no phosphorus, which would have been present if human bones had been added. Sometimes legends are just legends. The flying celestial holding an incense burner is clearly and earnestly praying for King Seongdeok to be reborn in the Pure Land.

The Bell of King Seongdeok aka the Bell of Emille (National Treasure No. 29) - Source

Celestial Nymphs Depicted in Temple Compounds Praise the Buddhas Who Live in the Buddha Realm

Although mostly found as decorative design on temple bells, celestial nymphs are also found on the ceilings, main altars and canopies of Dharma halls, and on stone lanterns, monks’ stupas and decorative paintings on the walls of Dharma halls. On the underside of canopies placed above Buddha statues we also see various carved designs of dragons, flames, precious jewels and phoenixes. Surrounding the canopies are celestial nymphs seeming to emerge from the ceiling. These dazzling sculptures give a dramatic effect to the inner space of Buddha halls. Let us find out more about the celestial nymphs adorning these places.

Celestial nymphs are divided into three types: those that play instruments, those that fly and those that make offerings. 

Instrument-playing celestials play various instruments; flying celestials are either descending from heaven or flying horizontally; those making offerings to the Buddha are holding lotuses or incense burners. Temple bells from the 8th century typically feature instrument-playing celestials sitting lightly on clouds with their robes fluttering upward in graceful curves. Temple bells from the late 8th century and 9th century typically feature celestials making offerings while kneeling on lotus pedestals or instrument-playing celestials. In addition to temple bells, celestial nymphs are also found on Dharma halls, pagodas and monks’ stupas. Some noteworthy celestial nymphs adorning Dharma halls are found: on the altar of the Main Buddha Hall at Beomeosa Temple in Busan; on the ceiling of the Main Buddha Hall at Yongjusa Temple in Hwaseong; and those emerging from the ceiling of the Main Buddha Hall of Songgwangsa Temple in Wanju. In the Main Buddha Hall of Yongjusa, celestial nymphs are depicted flying through the air.


Celestial nymphs on the canopy of the Main Buddha Hall at Yongjusa Temple in Hwaseong. With one leg bent back and the other stretched out, two nymphs fly over the heads of Buddha statues, their robes fluttering.
A celestial nymph, adorning the canopy of the Pure Land Hall at Hwa-amsa Temple in Wanju,
flies in dynamic fashion holding a flower in her hand. 

On the ceiling, two celestial nymphs are depicted flying over the heads of Buddha statues and surrounded by flying phoenixes and floating wish fulfilling-gems, symbols of auspicious energy. With one leg bent back and the other stretched out, their postures suggest movement while their robes and arm bands flying upward evoke dramatically the sense of flight. The luxurious flowers adorning their robes and arm bands symbolize devout faith to the Buddha. The whole scene depicts an aesthetically beautiful fantasy or dream. 

The celestial nymphs on the Main Buddha Hall of Yongjusa Temple, though small in size, exude magical power that draws onlookers into the Buddha realm. The stone lantern in front of Ven. Na-ong’s (aka Boje Jonja) stupa at Silleuksa Temple in Yeoju features outstanding bas-relief images of celestial nymphs. On each plane of the octagonal lantern chamber, carved from agalmatolite, an arch-shaped window is cut, and the rest of the plane features elaborate inscription of celestial nymphs and dragons. The face of one celestial nymph holding a lotus bud is damaged, but her graceful body and softly fluttering robes make it easy to imagine her in flight. Her voluptuous body entwined in thin, soft cloth is captivating to the point that we can almost feel her bodily warmth. 

Other noteworthy depictions of celestial nymphs are: those inscribed under the roofstone of National Preceptor Hongbeop’s stupa, retrieved from the Jeongtosa Temple Ruins and now displayed in the National Museum of Korea; Seon Master Cheolgam’s stupa at Ssangbongsa Temple in Hwasun; a monk’s stupa at Godalsa Temple Ruins in Yeoju; the Three-Story Pagoda at Jinjeonsa Temple Ruins in Yangyang. When we see depictions of a celestial nymph, we should look beyond their physical form. With knowledge of their significance, you might feel their free and joyful movements as well as listen to their sublime music resounding through the universe. You might even visualize a scene from the Pure Land with celestial nymphs flying about. Wherever featured in a temple compound, celestial nymphs symbolize our veneration and exultation to the Buddha and the Pure Land.

Celestial Music in Praise of Buddhas’ Merits Instruments Played by Celestial Nymphs

The music played by celestial nymphs expresses the profound joy of Dharma, and the deep sound of liberation that transcends this mundane life confined in a physical body. Playing various wind or string instruments, they lead us to the world of nirvana.

Music has always been closely related to Buddhism as it can effectively praise, adorn and present offerings to the Buddha. Many Buddhist scriptures, including the Lotus Sutra, often feature musical gods like kinnaras and gandharvas, as well as performances of celestial music and music to entertain. However, in principle, temples prohibit music intended to entertain. This includes all music that does not guide one to higher realms of thought; including dancing and singing, as well as gongs and drums. 

The Buddha said, “Singing is not allowed except on two occasions. One is to praise the virtues of great monks and the other is to chant the Impermanence Sutra.” In this way the Buddha warned against music for the sake of one’s enjoyment. A monastic’s foremost task is to cultivate themselves physically and mentally in order to attain enlightenment and to edify sentient beings. “Enchanting music” is an obstacle to Buddhist practice. 

The reason the Buddha allows offerings of music but prohibits singing and dancing is because he has great compassion for people, and those who offer music to the Buddha receive blessings according to their wishes. By integrating passages from various sutras, we can conclude that any singing and dancing should be for the sake of Buddhism’s Three Jewels, and meant to praise the Buddha. Playing music to glorify the Buddha is to achieve great merit and a way to attain the path to Buddhahood.

Instruments for Offerings of Sound 

Celestial nymphs praise the Buddha, play celestial music, sprinkle fragrant flowers and reside in the heavenly realm of abundant joy. That’s why Buddhists believe they can instantly reach the Pure Land of the Buddha if they can even grasp the hem of their fluttering robes. A bipa (a kind of lute) is the instrument most often held by celestial nymphs. Most of the instruments they hold are ancient musical instruments from central Asia. Each nymph seems to be playing alone, but in actuality they are all playing together as an ensemble to express the joy of Dharma. They play blissful music of the Buddhist paradise as described in the scriptures of the Pure Land tradition. 

Of the four heavenly kings that protect temples,
the one in charge of the north holds a bipa (a kind of lute) in his hand.

If you have no idea of what a bipa is, think about the four heavenly kings enshrined in the Gate of Heavenly Kings. One of them is holding a bipa in his hand. Why does this king, the one who protects the BuddhaDharma, holds bipa instead of a sword, arrow, spear or vajra? It is because the bipa enjoyed great popularity in ancient central Asia, where most people lived a nomadic lifestyle and rode horses. As a bipa could be played while riding horseback, many warriors played them. That’s probably why that one king, clad in warrior attire, is holding a bipa. Some noteworthy celestial nymphs playing a bipa are depicted on the pillars of the Main Buddha Hall at Beomeosa Temple in Busan, and on the ceiling of the Main Buddha Hall at Jangnyuksa Temple in Yeongdeok. 

Flute-playing celestial nymphs are inscribed
on the main altar at Gwallyongsa Temple in Changnyeong.

Other instruments used to make offerings of music are the piri (a kind of flute), haegeum (a string instrument resembling a fiddle), janggu (hourglass-shaped drum), saenghwang and bara (spherical hand drum). Most of these are depicted in the Main Buddha Hall of Naesosa Temple in Buan. Every instrument depicted on the ceiling has fluttering robes dangling from it. Beautiful celestial nymphs are also inscribed on the main altar of Gwallyongsa Temple in Changnyeong.


Celestial Nymphs Playing Instruments and Dancing 

Buddhism says we can attain Buddhahood by praising and presenting offerings to the Buddha. In Buddhist art, offerings of music are done by either celestial nymphs or ordinary musicians dancing and playing music. Most human musicians have either the features of heavenly beings or bodhisattvas with haloes, or ordinary people in colorful attire and round hats. Celestial nymphs playing instruments are often depicted on the ceilings of Buddha halls, on pagodas enshrined with Buddha’s cremains, on sarira utensils, and on the platform of an eminent monk’s stupa. 

The nymphs on the ceiling of the Main Buddha Hall at Songgwangsa Temple in Wanju are featured in various scenes playing instruments or dancing. Also seen are traditional Korean elements such as some dance movements in the style of the mask dance and in a woman playing the daegeum (a kind of flute) and wearing a shaman’s hat decorated with a feather. At Silleuksa Temple in Jecheon two symmetrically positioned celestial nymphs are depicted, a style hinting at Chinese influence. 

The stupa for Jijeung Daesa at Bongamsa Temple in Mungyeong features celestial nymphs kneeling with joined palms, as well as others playing various instruments. Some outstanding depictions of celestial nymphs inscribed on stone pagodas include: instrument-playing nymphs on the three-story stone pagoda at Baekjangam Hermitage (affiliated with Silsangsa Temple in Namwon) and the Four-Lion-Three-Story Stone Pagoda at Hwaeomsa Temple. The celestial nymphs inscribed on the base of the Four-Lion-Three-Story Stone Pagoda at Hwaeomsa Temple are meant to offer praise to the Buddha’s sarira which are enshrined within. As can be seen, celestial nymphs play various instruments, dance and sing to praise the Buddha and present offerings of music to the Buddha realm. 

Friday, February 1, 2019

Kansong Art Museum at the DDP

Selected priceless artifacts from the Kansong Art Museum are currently on display at the DDP, Dongdaemun Plaza or Dream Design Play. The Kansong Art Museum was first opened in 1938 as Bohwagak, the first private art museum in Korea. The collector "Kansong" Jeon Hyeong-pil, born 1906, died in 1962 and so the museum name was changed to Kansong Art Museum and since 1971 has only opened twice a year for a brief time in the spring and again briefly in the fall. "Gansong" Jeon Hyeong-pil (1906-1962), a young wealthy landowner during the colonial period, collected the art treasures of Korea's past to keep them within Korea rather than see them be taken most notably to Japan, the then colonizing country of Korea.

The Kansong Art Museum is the home to 12 national treasures, 10 treasures, and 4 Seoul tangible cultural assets, and according to the Joongang Daily, the Kansong Art Museum since January 2014 has posted a few of its treasures online to share the glorious history of the Korea's rich past. If one clicks on the pictured art treasures at the Kansong Art Museum and Culture Foundation site, one can read about the treasure, and in many cases even learn what Jeon Hyeong-pil paid for the artifact.

To give a little background to Jeon Hyeong-pil, before the age of 25 he inherited a huge fortune, and being a man of leisure and having what can be regarded as a keen interest in art, he began to collect art treasures. During the 1930s and 1940s is when he collected the majority. Legendary stories evolved from his purchases, one in particular in 1935 concerns the now famous National Treasure No. 68, the Celadon Prunus Vase with inlaid Cloud and Crane Design, which was in the process of being sold to a Japanese. Jeon Hyeong-pil paid a huge sum (according to the museum web site: 20,000 won) which was equivalent to 20 decent houses of the time!

National Treasure No. 68, the Celadon Prunus Vase with inlaid Cloud and Crane Design
"Kansong", Jeon Hyeong-pil's pen-name, is also known as promoting the Korean language when the Japanese colonial rulers decreed that all Koreans must speak Japanese and the Japanese language became the language of education in the limited number of schools. Jeon Hyeong-pil purchases and supported Posung High School, the first private school established by a Korean citizen. It was through this high school and another purchase, the Hannam printing press that Mr. Jeon promoted great resistance against the colonial rulers. 
1906 July 29 - born
1921 March - graduated from Eouidong Primary School (now Hyojae Elem Sch)
1926 March - graduated from Whimoon High School
1930 March - graduated from law school, Waseda University, Japan
1934 - opened Bukdanjang in Seongbuk-dong and set up Geosan Stupa
1935 - purchased Celedon Prunus vase with inlaid cloud and crane design (Nat'l Treasure No 58) from Maeda Sayichiro
1936 - Hannam Bookstore and Publishing Company
1936 - purchased Blue and White Porcelain Bottle with Chrysanthemum Design in Underglaze Iron and Copper (Nat'l Treasure No. 294) at Gyeongseong Art Club, the Mori Koichi's collection auction
Blue-and-white Porcelain Bottle with Chrysanthemum Design in Underglaze Iron and Copper (Nat'l Treasure No. 294)

"The elongated neck of this elegant bottle and the globular body reflect the spirit of the age. The body is painted in blue, brown, and red by using cobalt, iron and copper oxides as pigments. This extremely rare bottle, painted in three different pigments, is recognized for its exceptional quality utilizing every color pigment and carving technique of the era.

Kansong purchased this masterpiece through heated bidding battle against Japanese art dealers in Gyeongseong Art Club in 1936. The final bidding price was record breaking, 14,580 won!

1937 - purchased Nat'l Treasure No. 65, 66, 74, 270, and Treasure No. 238, 286, 349, 1955, 1954
1938 - opened the first private art museum, Museum Bohwagak, in Bukdanjang
1940 - established the school foundation Dongsung, taking over the Posung Middle School
1940 - collected the Huminjeongeum Hyeraebon (Nat'l Treasure No. 70)
1945 Oct - 1946 Sept - worked as principal of Posung Middle School
1947 - selected as member of Historic Assets Preservation Committee
1950 June 25 - outbreak of the Korean War
1954 - delegated to first and second subcommittee member of the Cultural Properties Protection Committee
1956 - awarded with Education Service Commendation
1960 January - established the Art and Archaeology Society
1962 Jan 26 - "Kansong" passed away
1962 Aug 15 - posthumous honors of Order of Cultural Merit conferred on "Kansong"
1964 Nov 13 - posthumous honors of Order of Civil Merit Republic of Korea on "Kansong"
1965 - establishment of The Center for the Study of Korean Arts
1971 - Bohwagak renamed Kansong Art Museum, and project exhibition opened to the public every spring and autumn

Kansong Art Museum opens every May and October for a brief time. Be sure to visit this museum with exceptional masterpieces!

Saturday, December 19, 2015

Gongju and Buyeo (Baekje Culture)

Dating back almost 1700 years, the Baekje Kingdom at its height was the center of arts and culture on the Korean peninsula and beyond.

King Munyeong's Gilt-bronze Incense Burner of Baekje, was molded on a Boshan incense burner. A Boshan incense burner symbolized the mountain dwelling of the gods, and such incense burners are covered in symbols portraying celestial affairs. This incense burner is mounted with the mystical phoenix, the lid is mountain shaped and filled with holes for the smoke to escape. Since its discovery in 1993 and then its designation in 1996 as a National Treasure of Korea, the incense burner became a symbol of national pride and an icon of age-old art in the Korean peninsula.

About the Baekje Kingdom

Baekje (18 BC - 660 AD) was one of the Three Kingdoms of Korea—along with Goguryeo (37 BC - 668 AD) and Silla (57 BC - 935 AD)—and its people were descendants of Buyeo tribes people of Manchuria. Baekje tribes migrated southward to what is now Seoul where the Baekje leaders set up a capital, asserting control over the local tribes people and beating back pressure from the northern kingdom of Goguryeo.

Baekje flourished in the 4th century, trading with Japan and the Chinese kingdom of Chin. Goguryeo then forced Baekje south from Seoul to Ungjin (now Kongju) in 475, so for the next 63 years Ungjin became the Baekje capital. Ungjin was near water—the Geum or “Brocade” River—and well defended by the Kongsan fortress, but it was too far from the sea and too surrounded by mountains to allow easy communication with the outside world.
Click to enlarge
King Song-wang (ruling 523 – 553) moved the capital downstream to Sabi (now Buyeo) to a place on the Geum River now known specifically as Paengma or “White Horse” (the name explained later). Sabi was nearer the sea, had a large, rich farming area, and also had the nearby riverside Sabi fortress at Puso-san.

Cultural Sharing during the Baekje Kingdom

Baekje made many contributions to the Japanese culture in the 6th century—most obviously, the teachings of Buddha and Buddha temple architecture, some of which can be still seen near Nara, Japan, at the Horyuji Temple (the world’s oldest wooden building). 

Baekje also benefited from the direct importation of Chinese culture. The Baekje upper class knew the Confucian classics, Chinese medicine, and divination.

Baekje artifacts speak of a society that was interactive with a wide range of tribes people and cultural interactions. Baekje tombs remain distinct from other tombs of contemporary kingdoms. Burial urns now housed in the Buyeo National Museum hark back to tribal culture, while Buddhist temple objects and figures testify to a strong religious flavor and the import, assimilation and development of Buddhism. The tombs give some indication of the society and economy—elite clans which evolved from tribal holdovers as well as elaborate ranks and grades of salary for officials and military leaders (as can be seen through Chinese imports used by military elites). Farmers paid taxes in silk and rice. In battles, prisoners were taken as slaves.



The Demise of Baekje

Baekje came to an end in 660 when it was overcome by combined forces from T’ang China and the neighboring Silla Kingdom, which was based in Gyeongju. The interference of Chinese forces came after a long hiatus (220 – 589 AD) during which China had been fragmented into many small kingdoms. Prior to 220 the Han dynasty had claimed large parts of northern Korea (the Lolong colony) but the fall of Han allowed the Koreans (or proto-Koreans) to develop their own kingdoms—Goguryeo, Silla and Baekje. In the early 600’s, China was reunified by the Sui (581 – 618 AD) and then the T’ang (618 – 907 AD). T’ang, which was the greatest empire the world had seen, naturally aimed to recapture the glories of the long-gone Han empire, and gaining control over Korea was part of this design.

Overcoming one of the Three Kingdoms in the Korean peninsula was not so easy as the kingdoms were adept at alliance politics, manipulating each other and foreigners in China and Japan. Koguryeo in particular was armed, and it beat back the repeated Sui and T’ang invasions in Manchuria. Since force was ineffective, the T’ang government combined forces and political manipulation with the Silla kingdom, knowing that Silla and Baekje were at odds. T’ang struck an alliance with Silla, and their combined forces destroyed Baekje in 660 AD.

Modern Buyeo Reveals the Denouement in 660 AD

The T’ang forces, purportedly numbering 130,000, approached Sabi from the north. The commanding general, Su Ting-fang, stopped when he reached the river facing the Sabi fortress on Puso-san. The diviners said that he couldn’t cross the river until he got rid of the river dragon which protected the Sabi fortress. Knowing that dragons were pushovers for white horses, General Su went fishing using the head of a white horse for bait. As the story goes, he lured the dragon to the surface, killed it, and then led the army across the river to assault the Baekje capital. Another version of the story is that a storm caused by the protective dragon raged, and so Su Ting-fang using the head of a white horse which dragons have a special attraction to, fished for the dragon amidst thunder and lightning and was able to lure and capture the live dragon, who, in exchange for its life, stilled the storm so the general's army could safely cross the river.

The Chinese were not alone in their assault. Kim Yusin, the great Silla general, had fought his way through the Baekje army led by General Kyebaek (see statue in Buyeo) and had laid siege to Sabi fortress all around the south wall. The Chinese assault across the Geum river and directly into the fortress left the Baekje people nowhere to flee. 3,000 court women unable to flee and preferring suicide to being taken captive by the horny hordes flung themselves over a cliff, now called the Nakhwa-am or “Falling Flowers Cliff”.  Though King Uija managed to get away to Ungjin (Kongju), his kingdom was crushed.

Mural on one of the walls of the Goran-sa. The mural faces the healing medicinal waters of Goran-sa.
Buyeo Town

The name Buyeo comes from the ancestral home of the Baekje people in Manchuria, and for a while it was called Nam-Buyeo or “South Buyeo”, but it is universally known as Baekje, the “Hundred Tribes”.

Cheongnim-sa was once an elaborate temple, but now all that exists is a site marked in downtown Buyeo and two important stone relics—a weathered stone Buddha (National Treasure #108) and the five-storied stone Baekje Pagoda (National Treasure #9), which is only one of two pagodas that have survived since the Three Kingdoms period. Su Ting-fang added insult to injury when he carved the story of his victory over Baekje on the base of the pagoda, hence the “Pacifying Baekje Pagoda” name which is sometimes attached to it. The shame of this inscription was such that the survivors buried the pagoda and it lay buried—and therefore better preserved—at Mireuk-sa some kilometers away until the 1890’s.

The five-storied stone Baekje pagoda (National Treasure #9),
sometimes shamefully known as the "Pacifying Baekje Pagoda".
Strangely, this Buddha looks very much like the Easter Island moai at Ahu Tahai ...

Puso-san has a hiking road from the Baekje museum that goes up the mountain and into the forest on what used to be the Sabi fortress. At the top of Puso-san is Yeongil-lu (“Greeting-the-sun” Pavillion) and the Songweol-lu (“Seeing-off-the-setting-moon” Pavillion), and the Nakhwa-am (“Falling Flowers Rock”).

One of the pavillions at the top of Nakhwa-am.
Goran-sa is the "Korean Orchid" temple below the Nakhwa-am near the water’s edge. Its name is derived from the Gorancho plant (Crypsinus hastatus), which is something like an orchid and which grows in profusion near the adjacent spring of medicinal water. This spring is where the Baekje kings got their drinking water, and the temple site was constructed to commemorate the “Falling Flowers” of Nakhwa-am. According to legend, the king enjoyed drinking water from Goran-sa and sent someone to fetch his mineral water every day. Before drinking, court ladies floated leaves on the water to prove it came from the temple. Legend also has it that if a person drinks a cup of Goran mineral water, he or she will become three years younger. [It didn't work. Several of us tried it.]


For those interested in a boat ride on the Geum “Brocade” River, the boat will take passengers past the Choryong-dae, or “Fishing-for-the-Dragon Terrace”) where Su Ting-fang is said to have caught the dragon.



King Munyeong’s Tomb in Kongju

Kongju, capital of Baekje from 475 to 538 AD, lies upstream from Buyeo on the “Brocade” River. As the Middletons point out in their Some Korean Journeys (RAS, 1975), Kongju has twice had its status as capital taken away—it lost out to Buyeo in 538 and then to Daejeon in 1931 under the Japanese Government-General.

Kongju also has a mountain (Kongsan) on the river, a fortress larger than the one in Buyeo on the mountain (Kongsan-seong), a Chinese connection (the Ming helped fight Hideyoshi’s Japanese invaders here in the 1590’s), a set of royal tombs, and a branch of the National Museum.


dragon on the tilework in King Munyeong's tomb
fanciful tilework inside King Munyeong's cave
Kongju’s greatest treasure is the Baekje tomb of King Munyeong (also spelled Muryeong) and who ruled 501 – 523 AD. Munyeong’s tomb is in the tomb complex near the river. Over the centuries the other tombs were picked clean by thieves and scrofulous antique dealers, but Munyeong’s tomb remained undiscovered until, by accident, government restorers happened on it while working on a nearby grave in 1971. Excavations revealed an undisturbed Baekje royal tomb, guarded in the entry chamber by a little stone pig and containing hundreds of jewels, decorations, pots, and a very diverse assortment of artifacts. Discovery of the tomb was to Korea what the discovery of Tuthankhamen’s tomb was to Egypt, or like the discovery of Ch’in Huang’ti’s terra cotta army was to China.

Outstanding among the tomb objects is Munyeong’s gold crown ornament, in a flame-shaped pattern hung with gold decorations and sewn, apparently onto a silk cap which did not survive the centuries. In the Kongju National Museum along with the guardian pig and the crown ornaments, are bronze mirrors, gold earrings, jade, hairpins, pots, headrests, figurines, and decorated bricks and roof tiles. Where Baekje studies prior to that time had relied on the likes of Su Ting-fang’s carved account on the Baekje Pagoda in Buyeo, Munyeong’s tomb opened up new vistas for comparisons and studies of the transmission of culture among the kingdoms and peoples of East Asia. Until recently, visitors could enter the now emptied tomb but which has intricately designed tile work; however, now that a replica of the tomb has been included in a nearby viewing room, the tomb, having survived centuries is being preserved and removed from the influx of visitors so that it can continue to survive and breathe the presence of the past to the present and future generations.
Imagery of King Munyeong wearing his Baekje crown ornaments.
The mythical, mystical creature - the guardian pig of King Munyeong's tomb
References:

Royal Asiatic Society Korea Branch detailed printout (take the tour of Buyeo and Kongju)

Visit Korea. "Gongju: The Glory of Baekje Lives On" by Robert Koehler. June 27, 2008.

Sunday, November 8, 2015

Touring Bongjeongsa (Andong) and Bogyeongsa (Pohang)

Dongguk University International Seon Center offered a weekend templestay at an Andong and a Pohang temple. I had never participated in a templestay because I always felt like it was targeting to foreigners to "teach" them how to do mundane little things like sweep the ground for two hours as without work no one eats, or to make a lotus lantern, or how to do 108 Buddhist bows. Seriously, I am not interested in being shepherded around with foreigners who "need to be taught" like attending a Buddhist temple is a giant lesson. However, when I saw the call for interested participants to join the templestay program hosted by a Seon center, I thought, "Now here's a chance to go to a temple and have a more authentic experience about how Buddhists practice". There were only five foreigners who went with about 35 Koreans, not all of whom were Buddhists, so it was a chance to emulate, ask questions and quietly learn. 

Bongjeongsa in Andong, of the 16th branch of the Chogye Order

Background: Said to have been founded in 672 during the reign of King Munmu of Unified Silla. According to legend, the Buddhist monk Uisang, the national preceptor of Silla, chose the site after a paper phoenix he released at nearby Buseoksa floated to the Bongjeongsa current site and landed heralding propitious blessings on the grounds.

Among the 10 buildings at the main temple, five have been designated as treasures — one National Treasure, three Treasures and one Provincial Treasure.
  • National Treasure #15 - Geukrakjeon (Nirvana Hall) of Bongjeongsa is one of the rare specimens of Goryeo wooden architecture still standing in Korea, and is in fact considered Korea's oldest wooden building -- built in 1363. 
헌식대 - (literally, 'contributing' + 'food' + 'platform') the stone table in a Buddhist courtyard for giving blessed offerigns after a ceremony to animals, the action is symbolic of the compassion of Buddhism

In the corner of the temple's yard
a few grains of rice are placed on top of a small stone altar.
During barugongyang, monks took small bites of their food
to share with squirrels and birds.
All sentient beings share together.

  • Treasure #55 - Daeungjeon, the main temple hall with its stunning original murals, represents the building styles of the early Joseon Dynasty. It is noted for its column-head brackets and curved bracketing, a style imported from Song China, with whom the Goryeo rulers maintained regular contact with. Later in the Goryeo dynasty this bracketing style evolved into a multi-clustered bracketing inherited from the Yuan, which clustered brackets on column heads as well as between the columns of the beams. 
  • Treasure #448 - Hwaeom Gangdang, a study hall constructed in 1588 during the mid-Joseon Dynasty
  • Treasure #449 - Gogeumdang, a small worship hall constructed in 1616
  • Provincial Treasure #325 - Manseru, a meeting hall containing the four Buddhist instruments for waking and calling the sentient beings

Inside the unusually spacious Manseru, the hall containing
the four Buddhist instruments, three of which are pictured.

Bogyeongsa in Pohang, of the 11th branch of the Chogye Order

Bogyeongsa was founded in 603 AD during the 25th year of King Jinpyeong's reign of the Silla period. Monk Daedeok Jimyeong studied Buddhism in China and returned home with an octangular treasure mirror (bokyeong in Korean and meaning 'scripture'). Upon his return, he showed the mirror to the Buddhist king and told him, "If you discover an auspicious site on an east coast mountain, bury the palmyeongbogyeong (the eight destiny-or-precept scripture-mirror) and build a Buddhist temple. You will be able to prevent Japanese pirates from invading and you will unify the Three Kingdoms." The delighted king took the mirror and sailed north along the coast. Passing Pohang he saw Mt. Naeyeonsan covered with five-colored clouds. On the slopes under the five-colored clouds the king buried the scripture/mirror in a pond and filled the pond with earth, forming the foundation of Bogyeongsa. 
No one seems to really "know" where the great mirror-scripture was buried, but when we first arrived, another participant and myself walked around in the rain and thought that perhaps the area under the kimchi pots. It looked like an area that could have once been a pond that was filled in, but we weren't taking into consideration the hundreds of years that would change the look. Fun to speculate though.
Supposedly the scripture-mirror is under the Daewungjeon, the Buddha Hall, built in 1677 and which houses the three Buddha statues -- Amitabha (Infinite Life) Buddha in the center (아미타블) , Mahasthamaprapta (Bodhisattva of Great Wisdom - 대세지보살), and Avalokiteshvara (Bodhisattva of Great Compassion - 관세음보살).

Jeokkwangjeon (the Hall of Great Peace and Light) was built in 1740 and is grounded on the Flower Adornment Sutra, which is dedicated to Vairochana Buddha (Manifestation of Dharma), who radiates the light of truth in every direction of the universe. In Seon Buddhism, this is the Hall of the Three Bodies of a Buddha -- Dharmakaya (Vairochana) or the Dharma-body Buddha in the center, Sambhokaya (Rocana) or the Delight-body Buddha on the left, and the Nirmanakaya (Sakyamuni) or the Transformation-body Buddha on the right.

Myungbujeon (the Hall of Ksitigarbah Bodhisattva) or the Hall of the Bodhisattva of Hell built in 1678. It is also known as the Judgment Hall where ten kings are enshrined to judge the fates of the deceased according to their earthly deeds.

Palsangjeon (the Hall of Eight Aspects of Sakyamuni Buddha life) was built in 1678. It has eight Aspects of Sakyamuni Buddha's life. Eight scenes from the life of the Buddha who came to this world to deliver all living things:
  1. Depiction of Maya's pregnancy - foretelling dream, or the announcement of Buddha's Imminent birth
  2. The birth of Buddha in the Lumbini grove
  3. His four scenes of human existence (aging, sickness, dead body, and asceticism).
  4. His great renunciation (leaving the palace in search of Truth)
  5. His ascetic practice on a snowy mountain.
  6. His temptation and enlightenment under the bodhi tree.
  7. His first turning of the wheel of the Dharma at Deer Park in Baranes.
  8. His entering parinirvana under the twin sara tree.
The Hall of Disciples and Arhats - a recapitulation of the sermon on Vulture Peak Mountain with ten major disciples and sixteen Arhats.

Other unique structures:

Bell Pavilion where the four Buddhist instruments for Buddhist services are — a Dharma bell, a cloud-shaped brass, a wooden fish-shaped gong, and a great bell. All are for waking the sentient beings and calling them to worship.

Cheongwang-mun (the gate of the heavenly guardians), built in 1686 for the protection of both the temple and Buddha-Dharma.

Mountain Spirit Shrine - symbolizes the worshiping of the mountain spirit, an influence of Taoism. This is a typical aspect of Korean Buddhism, a coexistence of Buddhism, and the beliefs of folklore and shamanism.

Wonjin-gak, built in 1677, and enshrines the national master Venerable Wonjin in the Goryeo dynasty and 16 other great monks who studied in the temple.

Religious and cultural treasures in Bogyeongsa:
  • Treasure #11-1 - Bogyeongsa Bronze Bell crafted in 1667 by artisan monk Sa In.
  • Treasure #252 - National Master Wonjin's epitaph
  • Treasure #430 - Bogyeongsa stupa (budo) for the monk Venerable Wonjin; built in 1224
  • Treasure #1609 - Bogyeongsa Scroll Painting of Buddha (a long hanging Buddha scroll painting)
  • Provincial Treasure #203 - Five-story stone pagoda
  • Provincial Treasure #408 - Sarira stupa of the stone monument where sariras of great masters are enshrined
It was at this great temple with its many buildings that our Dongguk University Seon Center group gathered for templestay. Despite the rain, we were guided around the temple to familiar ourselves with the many buildings and told which buildings were used for different kinds of meditation. So many buildings, so the next morning at 3:30a.m. when we three foreign girls tried to find the correct building for the before sunrise call to meditation, rudely we arrived late because we went to the wrong temple ... in the rain and mud ... and it was already unpleasant getting up at 3:30a.m. 



We gathered to chant (well, listen to chanting) ...



... and meditate some more before we did the 108 bows (I still don't know the significance of this or the 108 beads, but I do know my legs felt like jelly afterwards!) ...


... We had Dharma talks ...


... and did personal meditation with legs crossed (if we could) for an hour. 
One of our foreign friends -- dang, the dude must have a sleeping disorder promptly, he promptly fell asleep, in almost any position, and snored. It was hard not to laugh ... and we were supposed to be absolutely silent so as not to disturb others in mediation!


... and of course we enjoyed delicious Buddhist temple food! Not pictures but well tasted!

Bogyeongsa is a beautiful temple hidden among trees on gently ascending slopes. Entering through the first gate, the one-pillar gate of Buddhism, is also entering into the valley of waterfalls. Flowing down Mt. Naeyeonsan to the back of Bogyeongsa are 12 waterfalls, the first seven are easily accessible along a trail paralleling the temple and snaking up the mountain behind.

Ssangsaeng or Twin Waterfall

Waterfall #7 among the 12 waterfalls - Yeonsan Waterfall, at 30 meters
Because it rained all weekend, the waterfalls were beautiful and very powerful! My weekend breath-taking moments!
Mr Kim, the Seon center director was delighted to show us this Korean beauty spot!
Waterfall #7 flowing down Mt. Naeyeonsan 
Meditating in front of Yeonsan Waterfall on Mt Naeyeonsan, Pohang

Sources: