Korean Court and Temple Foods

Royal food, which also reflects
the rules of the universe

KOREAN FOOD (Court and Temple)

Korea, a country that boasts 5,000 years of history, was ruled by royal dynasties. During the Joseon Dynasty (1392-1920), in particular, an elegant and colorful culinary culture sprouted from the court. Today royal cuisine of the Joseon Dynasty is prized as the exquisite embodiment of a style and philosophy unique to Korean cuisine that has been designated as an important intangible cultural heritage.

FOODS REFLECTING THE RULES OF THE UNIVERSE

Korean royal cuisine developed around the traditional philosophy of eumyang ohaeng - the yin and yang forces, and the five elements of the universe. The universe can be described as the balanced co-existence of a cold and dark energy, and a warm and bright energy along with a harmonized combination of tree, fire, earth, metal and water.

Cold kimchi is complemented by hot gum (soup); meat is balanced with vegetables; products from the mountains form a parallel with products from the sea; and foods are carefully selected to include the five cardinal colors (obangsaek), in which green represents trees, red represents fire, yellow represents earth, white represents metal, and black represents water.

HEALING FOODS

One of the philosophical grounds for cuisine is yaksikdongwon, meaning food and medicine are of the same root. This philosophy was the foundation of royal cuisine during the Joseon Dynasty. “Jewel in the Palace” (aka “Dae Jang Geum”) - globally celebrated Korean drama dealing with Korean royal cuisine - well portrays this aspect. The heroine Jang-geum immerses herself in creating food that enhances health, and finding ways to cure the ill through food. In one of the episodes, Jang-geum finds out the Chinese ambassador to Joseon has diabetes and prepares for him vegetable-based dishes that are good for diabetics.

Goldongban (traditional bibimbap of the royal court)

FOODS PRESENTED TO THE KING

During the Joseon Dynasty, specialties indigenous to different regions and the first harvests of the seasons were presented to the king as offerings. These offerings included rice from Yeoju and Icheon, gochujang from Sunchang, abalone from Wando, tangerines from Jejudo, honey from Inje, oysters from Seosan, dried persimmon from Sangju, and crab from Yeongdeok and Uljin. Breakfast and dinner prepared for the king was called surasang, which was a 12-cheop (dish) table consisting of 12 different dishes in addition to bap (rice), guk (soup), kimchi, jang (condiments), jjigae (stew), jeongeol (casserole cooked on the table), and jjim (a braised dish). Through the foods set on the table, the king was able to see whether his subjects were having a bumper year or a lean year.

FOOD MADE FOR BOTH CULINARY & AESTHETIC APPRECIATION

Deformed and damaged vegetables and fish could not be used for the king’s meal. Only the best of ingredients could be included in accordance with the belief that it helped the king stay clear and right-minded. The chefs of the court carefully selected ingredients that were aesthetically representative and included only the most palatable parts to ensure the best flavors and presentation. Royal cuisine avoided the use of overly salty, pungent, and strong-smelling ingredients and spices. Instead, it focused on boosting and highlighting the flavor unique to each ingredient.

TEMPLE FOODS: AN APPRECIATION FOR ALL LIVING THINGS

Korean temple food has been prepared and consume fro more than 1,700 years. To a Buddhist monk, eating is more than enjoying good taste and nutrition; it is also a process of seeking the truth. Today, temple food is gaining renewed attention for being as close to nature as possible, and for reminding people of the essence of life.

THE AVOIDANCE OF MEAT AND THE FIVE SPICES

Korean temple food is distinguished by the philosophy that all living things depend on each other for existence. Non-vegetarain ingredients such as meat, fish, chicken, and eggs are prohibited. Also banned are osinchae, which are five spicy and pungent vegetables - green onions, garlic, chives, wild chives, and heunggeo (Scilla scilloides) - the stimulating flavors considered to interfere with Buddhist practices.

A NATURE-FRIENDLY AND HEALTHY DIET

Temple foods are often known for what they lack: not only meat and osinchae but also artificial condiments. Fresh seasonal vegetables, grains, beans, and a variety of fermented foods like kimchi, sauces, and seasonings are the staples of temple foods, all of which are a great source of quality protein, vitamins, minerals, fiber, and medicinal properties. Used in place of osinchae are mild-tasting seasonings like mushroom powder, kelp powder, sanchae (Xanthoxylum piperitum) powder, perilla seed powder, and fresh bean powder.

THE SIMPLE YET RICH TASTE OF NATURE

Due to the Buddhist inclination to eat seasonal vegetables and grains as close to the natural form as possible, temple cuisine has relied on basic cooking techniques that are simple and not greasy such as seasoning, steaming, roasting, picking and wrapping. Only one or two condiments are used to enhance flavors. The resulting dishes are simple and light, bringing out the natural flavor of the ingredients. The simple-tasting and low-calorie cuisine made of 100% vegetarian ingredients has come to represent a nature-friendly and healthy diet. 

BARU BONGYANG

Baru gongyang (literally, "wooden bowl" + "offering") is the communal meal tradition of Buddhist monks originating from the asceticism of Sakhamuni Buddha 2,500 years ago. This ritual meal begins with an expression of appreciation to everyone involved in the making of the food. Then, rice, soup, side dishes, and water are placed in one of four baru bowls. Gongyang means eating, and is the assertion of determination to find the truth and practice it in life; thus, the term signifies that eating is also a part of the Buddhist discipline.

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SOURCE: e-book “Hansik” on the Visit Korea webpage.

24 Solar Terms

Traditionally, Korea has had 24 "jeolgi" seasons, like many East Asian countries. These 24 seasons were based on the lunar calendar. While the west used the solar calendar which is based on the earth's rotation around the sun and a solar year division of 4, the east used the lunar calendar based on the phases of the moon and from moon phases calculated the seasons and dates within them. [This system took into account that some years actually had 13 months and could still effectively plan agricultural and fishing success!] With this kind of calculation, time was divided into segments of four based on the vernal and autumnal equinoxes and the summer and winter solstices. And exactly between these four were the beginning of spring, summer, fall and winter, and between those divisions were the waxing and the waning periods ... totalling 24 seasons.

Sounds complicated, but the "seasons" were efficiently and scientifically calculated to harmonize the predominantly agricultural and fishing society with the subtle climactic changes in the year -- for example, frosts, cold snaps, the warm spring rains, the periods of extreme heat. Following the 24 seasons insured success in both the planting and harvesting and in maritime work.

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Every semester I get truly insightful presentations from my Public Speaking students. While Korea has a history of using the 24 seasons, instead of the typical 4 used by westerners, in the present day and age with a radical drop in agriculture and fishing, the 24-season concept is no longer needed and so for several decades has not been taught. To my huge delight, two Chinese and one Mexican students explored Chinese seasonality for their culture-related presentation. This cyclical clock apparently developed in China but of course was also used in Korea. Thank you Michelle, Xiaohui and Jiayin for providing me with information I've heard about but struggle to find in present-day literature!

This PPT largely represented Chinese culture. While Korea also used a 24-season calendar and there were some cultural foods shared between cultures, e.g. moon cakes / rice cakes on harvest moon day, the majority of seasonal foods are unique to their own specific cultures. For more on Korean "cheolgi" food, GastroTourSeoul gives a "taste" of specific foods and how that food fits on the cheolgi cycle.

Korean Temple Food Culture Experience Center

Near Anguk Station (line 3) is the Korean Temple Food Culture Experience Center. On weekends special cooking classes are offered, but for those who don't have time to sign up or are unfortunate in signing up too late for the limited 20-person participation per event, then just popping into the center to see the spectacular food display is educational in itself!

The food is displayed by seasonal foods and festive event foods. However, it's important to say that Korean Buddhist food is (1) based on the whole and nature food concepts valued in current society (making it very popular), (2) it's based on vegetarianism and the concept of living in harmony with the animal world and not having a hierarchical food chain, and (3) it has limitations on five foods (onions, garlic, chives, green onions and leeks) that excite the senses and affect those in the early stages of cultivation.

Natural food ingredients:

• Soy sauce, soybean paste, red pepper paste, and salt are often used to create the salty taste of temple food. 
• Honey, brown sugar, white sugar, and starch syrup are used for sweetness. 
• Spicy flavors are provided by ginger, red pepper powder, red peppers, green peppers, piperitum leaves or powders, and occasionally black pepper and mustard. 
• Some of the condiments used include: vinegar for the sour taste; sesame seeds, perilla seeds, sesame oil, perilla oil, and soybean oil for savoriness. 
• Kelp, shitake mushrooms, dried Cedrela sinensis branches, and white radish are flavor enhancers. 
• Chinese pepper, bang-a (Korean mint), and perilla seeds improve and balance flavors.

Three Merits and Six Tastes:

Traditionally temple food should have three merits and six tastes. The three merits are: purity (referring to cleanliness and freshness of ingredients), flexibility (from the tenderness of food); compliment tastes of all ingredients used.

The six tastes are: saltiness, sourness, sweetness, bitterness, spiciness, and astringency, all of which must be in harmony.

However, the tastes and aromas of temple food are unavoidably limited, as the usage of meat and the five pungent vegetables (onion and onion family) are prohibited. Buddhist monks and nuns have overcome this challenge by developing a variety of natural seasonings and spices. These natural seasonings and recipes created in each temple, and passed down orally, have resulted in the establishment of a unique culinary tradition.

NEW YEAR'S EVE:
braised shitake mushroom with white radish
yaksik
seasoned white radish
kimchi dumplings
japchae

On New Year's Eve, all-night prayer and practice, courageous waking meditative practice, or a Dharma assembly marking the New Year are commonly held at Buddhist temples --- though events vary by temple. On this special day, yaksik (literally "medicinal food") or sweet rice with nuts and jujubes, dumplings, assorted side dishes made of white radish, and japchae (stir-fried glass noodles and vegetables) are enjoyed.

SEOLAL (LUNAR NEW YEAR'S DAY):
Monastics at mountain hermitages prepare and exchange offerings to each other. Dumplings, rice cakes, and gangjeong (deep-fried rice puff) are commonly shared. Samja (deep-fried sweet rice cookies) and gangjeong are made by frying glutinous rice dough in boiling oil

SPRING:
deep-fried assorted mushrooms with sweet and spice sauce
stir-fried noodles and spring vegetables
temple-style vegetarian dumplings
cherry tomatoes pickled in Korean raspberry marmalade
gardenia fruit rice
shepherd's purse soybean paste stew

SPRING:
stir-fried glass noodles and bamboo shoots
seasoned Kalopanax sprouts
fried dried ???
braised banga (Korean mint) leaves
Fischers ragwort Kimchi
mugwort rice
shepherd's purse and bean sprout soup

BUDDHA'S BIRTHDAY:
water parsley ganghoe
glutinous rice cakes
parched beans
shredded white radish
water parsley bibimbap
spinach soybean paste soup

On Buddha's birthday, songpyeon (half-moon rice cakes), black beans, water parsley, and seasoned vegetables were often prepared to welcome temple visitors, as the eighth day of the fourth lunar month was a widely celebrated folk holiday even outside of Buddhist communities. Bibimbap, water parsley ganghoe, and roasted beans are also offered to visitors at Buddhist temples on Buddha's birthday.

SUMMER: 
Fresh ginseng and vegetables rolled with sliced zucchini
stir-fried sliced potatoes with perilla seeds
stuffed summer squash
sichuan pepper leaf and young summer radish kimchi
steamed butterbur with perilla seeds
green tea leaf rice
soybean paste sauce

SUMMER:
stir-fried dried acorn jelly
potato porridge
chilled ginger and eggplant salad
seasoned Korean melon
pickled radish
seasoned thistle with rice
butterbur perilla seed soup

SAMBOK (the hottest period of summer):
watermelon dipped in soybean paste
lettuce kimchi
zucchini pancakes
lotus flower tea
piperitum jangajji
noodles in cold soybean and pine nut soup

Temple monastics endure hot weather by eating cold noodles in thick soybean soup, which not only helps beat the heat, but also provides sufficient water and nutrition. Possible stomachaches arising from watermelon, another temple thirst-quencher, are avoided by slightly dipping the watermelon in soybean paste.

AUTUMN:
deep-fried ginseng
deep-fried mushroom with sweet and spicy sauce
steamed burdock
oyster mushroom and radish salad
perilla leaf chili paste pancakes
rice
mushroom and sichuan pepper leaf soup with perilla seeds

AUTUMN:
grilled burdock
lotus root and green laver pancakes
mushroom and radish dumplings
diced radish kimchi
salted seaweed
deodeok rice
taro soup

CHUSEOK (KOREAN THANKSGIVING):
three-colored songpyeon
three-color dasik (tea cookies)
sweet rice punch

Oryeo sonpyeon (half-moon rice cakes made of early-ripening rice), sweet rice punch made of newly harvested rice, and newly harvested fruits are used in Chuseok ancestral rites. At Buddhist temples, rice cakes, fruit, cinnamon punch, sweet rice punch, and tea (like the 6 offerings to the Buddha) are offered to the Buddhist altar for prayers. Mungbean pancakes and songpyeon are especially significant offerings during the Harvest Moon Festival.

WINTER:
deep-fried lotus root stuffed with tofu
whole pear stuffed with white kimchi
jujube and tofu dumplings
seasoned dried persimmon
watery seaweed salad
gulfweed and hijikia rice
dried zucchini stew

WINTER:
stir-fried mushroom and assorted vegetables with soybean paste
deep-fried neungi mushroom with sweet and spicy sauce
braised dried radish greens with soybean paste
seasoned walnut and sinchuan pepper leaf with spicy sauce
pickled radish fermented with gardenia fruit
steamed sticky rice wrapped in lotus leaves
pine mushroom soup

Foods developed by various temples:

Baekyang Temple:
Cedrela pancakes
steamed tofu topped with water parsley
sedum water kimchi
stir-fried lotus root and walnuts
seasoned dried radish
shitake mushroom and tofu rice
battered aralia sprouts and bean soup

Yeongseon Temple:
stir-fried noodles and chili pepper
seasoned sliced potato
grilled perilla leaves
pickled radish
sauteed beans seasoned with sauce
rye rice
butterbur stem soybean paste stew

Unmun Temple:
seasoned radish leaves
deep-fried shepherd's purse
mugwort pancakes
seasoned day lily
seasoned whiteman's foot
peanut glutinous rice
mugwort soup

Koun Temple:
seasoned buckwheat
radish leaves seasoned with rich soybean paste
braised burdock leaves
acorn jelly
braised peanuts
rice with assorted nutritious ingredients
taro soup

Jinkweon Temple:
grilled deodeok seasoned with soy sauce
kimchi
braised tofu
pickled cedrela
prickly ash pepper soy sauce
millet rice
neungi mushroom soup

Baekheung Hermitage:
braised tofu and chestnuts
kimchi with chili pepper seeds
grilled burdock coated with sticky rice porridge
kohlrabi salad
pickled ogapi
radish rice
Chinese cabbage and bean powder soup

OTHER FOOD CULTURES:

Mugwort Gathering Day:
mandarin oranges
gimbap (seasoned rice rolls)

When traveling to nearby mountains for gathering mugwort, gimbap (seasoned rice rolls), mandarin oranges, and cucumbers (all regularly found in temple kitchens) are packed.

TONSURE DAY FOOD:
laver
tofu pancakes
cooked glutinous rice
seaweed soup

Buddhist monks and nuns take the tonsure twice each month of the lunar calendar -- on the 14th day and the second to last day of the month. They regain energy lost due to tonsure by eating cooked glutinous rice, laver, tofu pancakes, and seaweed soup.

A monk's breakfast table:
steamed tofu roots
pine nut porridge
steamed sweet potatoes

simple meals, such as porridge or steamed vegetables, are often served on a monastic's breakfast table, as a heavy breakfast could hinder spiritual studies.

Raw food:
Eminent Buddhist monks traditionally ate a variety of raw foods when engaged in intensive meditation or during waking meditative practice. Non-glutinous rice and glutinous rice are soaked in water a day prior to serving so that they may be easily chewed. Iron is received from pine needle powder, heat from honey and jujubes, energy from Chinese matrimony vines, protein from black beans, and carbohydrates and fiber from chestnuts ... thus all essential nutrients are provided.

Good foods for fighting colds:
bonnet bellflower root jangajji
white radish jangajji
stir-fried radish greens
kimchi and bean sprouts porridge
neungi mushroom soup

Neungi mushroom soup, and kimchi and bean sprout porridge are good for preventing or fighting colds as they help raise body temperature.

Semiwon Lotus Garden

Semiwon is becoming known as quite the tourist destination. The site is marketed as 'the garden of water and flowers', and on this day it was particularly water-full .... it was raining, and thus the reason for going: not as many visitors AND the colors would be alive and bright.

Semiwon is located at the mouth of two Han Rivers, the Buk Han Kang and the Nam Han Kang, and getting there is quite easy. By subway, take the Gyeongui-Jungang Line and get off at Yangsu station, go out exit 1 (600 scenic meters if you follow the river path and not the ugly roadways). By bus, take either #167 from Cheongryangri station getting off at Yangsu-ri and walking 500 meters, or bus #2000-1 from Gangbyeong Station getting off at Yangseo Culture and Sports Park.

According to the tourism sign:

"A garden of water and flowers, Semiwon is a lotus flower garden that was created based on an old adage, "Cleanse your mind while looking at water and beautify your mind while looking at flowers." All paths in the garden are constructed with washboards to symbolize cleansing your mind while looking at the Han River. The river water that is drawn from the Han River is designed to flow through the six ponds, where lotus flowers, water lilies, and irises are growing in order to filter out heavy metals and suspended matters before it flows back into the river. Major facilities at Semiwon include the World Water Lily Garden, which has more than 100 varieties of water lilies; Monet's Garden, which was inspired by the flower paintings of French artist Claude Monet; and Sehanjeong Garden, which was created by reproducing a painting titled Sehando (Winter Scene) by Kim Jeong-hui (1786-1856, pen-name Chusa), a prominent calligrapher of the Joseon period. When lotus flowers are in full bloom between July and August, Semiwon is filled with beautiful scents."

Spring is on the way and small touches are starting to be visible ......... amidst the refuse of last year's garden.

"Cleanse your mind while looking at water and beautify your mind while looking at flowers." 

A museum filled with lotus-decorated objects. [An epiphany for me: while I've been aware of the lotus motif for a very long time, it was particularly interesting to see a museum organized not on the period theme but on an icon theme!]

And after enjoying the beauty of the lotus gardens, we left Semiwon grounds and across the street is a rather popular restaurant that specializes in lotus-leaf rice with diverse vegetable side dishes. Fabulous flavor on top of very unique presentation!