Showing posts with label Baekje. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Baekje. Show all posts

Friday, November 29, 2019

Heavenly Nymphs - 'bicheon'

"Celestial Nymphs, Heavenly Maidens to Transmit the Buddha's Voice: Playing Instruments and Scattering Flowers in Praise of the Buddha"

Celestial nymphs (bicheon) are a type of heavenly being who give offerings and praise to the Buddha by playing instruments, dancing and sprinkling flowers. Though unseen by ordinary people, they fly at will with their supernatural powers. Wherever Buddhas teach or bodhisattvas reside, celestial nymphs fly over them and sprinkle flowers or play instruments. How were these attractive celestial nymphs, who float in the air with their heavenly robes fluttering, introduced to Korea from India through China? Let’s see where these celestial nymphs are found in a temple compound, and further explore the music and instruments they play.

Celestial nymphs are mythological beings that symbolize the beauty and peace of the Buddha realm, the ideal world of Buddhism. As an artistic expression of our desire to fly as well, celestial nymphs can be compared to the angels of Western mythology. However, unlike Western angels who need wings, celestial nymphs of the East, especially those depicted in Buddhism, have much more freedom. The idea that one can fly without wings is a somewhat novel concept by itself. Perhaps celestial nymphs are just an expression of our own inner desire to fly without the aid of wings.

Originating in the Indian districts of Gandhara and Mathura, the concept of celestial nymphs was introduced to China via the Silk Road and then to Korea. A depiction of male and female celestial beings sprinkling flowers is one of the oldest examples of Indian art. In Indian mythology they were considered low ranking devas, and the females were called apsaras or devatas. The most often depicted image of celestial nymphs, afloat in the air with celestial robes fluttering, is reminiscent of the legendary Daoist fairies, but in fact, originally, they were not considered that beautiful. In Indian mythology, depictions of celestial nymphs evolved from images of gandharvas or kinnaras, which may have been animals or birds; nobody is quite sure. They often had a human head and a bird-like body or a horse head with a human body. They evolved into more of a fairy image in China and Korea where imported Buddhist thought coexisted with China’s concept of Daoist hermits. The celestial nymphs depicted in the Dunhuang grottoes had already been transformed into the elegant and charming images of Daoist legends. These beautiful Chinese-style celestial nymphs were introduced to Korea in the late 4th century during Korea’s Three Kingdoms Period, along with Buddhism. After some changes in style, celestial nymphs were established in Korea as what we now call bicheon.

Korea’s Celestial Nymphs Transformed into Beautiful Fairies

Already transformed in China into attractive Daoist fairies, in Korea, celestial nymphs were depicted as beings who could freely soar into the sky or descend to earth draped in fluttering celestial robes. They first appeared in Korea in the murals of Goguryeo dynasty tombs, and on a queen’s pillow discovered in the Muryeong Royal Tomb of the Baekje kingdom. During the Unified Silla era, celestial nymphs appeared as decorative motifs on the nimbi and pedestals of Buddha statues, and on metal artworks such as temple bells and sarira utensils. 

Celestial nymphs in Goguryeo’s ancient tombs have nimbi, their half-naked bodies are elegantly curved, and their robes and wide waistbands, depicted in sophisticated artistic techniques, convey the freedom and feeling of soaring. They look free and unhindered. In murals they convey a sense of the Buddha realm through their total freedom. 

This evolution of Korea’s celestial nymphs continued on the Bronze Bell of Sangwonsa Temple (National Treasure no. 36). The most exquisite of Korean flying celestial nymph images are found on this temple bell, located on Mt. Odaesan. Though rather small in size, the Bronze Bell of Sangwonsa Temple has a multitude of celestial nymphs on its surface, giving the impression they are dancing in sequence. They are depicted playing a lute and a wind instrument called a saenghwang. Their robes flutter upward from the ascending air currents, and the vegetal design on their waistbands heightens their allure. Another temple bell similar in stature to the Bronze Bell of Sangwonsa Temple is the Bell of King Seongdeok (National Treasure no. 29), aka Emille Bell, which is housed in the Gyeongju National Museum. Production of the bell was begun by Silla’s King Gyeongdeok to honor his father King Seongdeok, but it was completed in 771 by his successor, King Hyegong. The bell is known for its aesthetic beauty and graceful form, along with its clear, deep sound. 

Unlike the celestial nymphs on the Bronze Bell of Sangwonsa Temple, those on the Bell of King Seongdeok are presenting offerings to the Buddha, probably because the bell was crafted to pray for the eternal repose of the deceased King Seongdeok. Seated on opposite sides of the dangjwa, the bell’s striking point, two exquisite celestial nymphs captivate even modern designers. Holding lotuses in their open palms, they are kneeling on lotus pedestals. Their cascading robes and necklaces fluttering in the wind, they make offerings while encircled by large and small floral scrolls from heaven. Artworks that are dazzling typically lack loftiness, and lofty artworks typically lack luxuriousness. However, the celestial nymphs on the Emille Bell are both lofty and luxurious. They exude stillness in the midst of movement, and hint at movement in their stillness. 

Although these celestial nymphs are typically inscribed on cold, hard surfaces, such as bells and walls, their free and joyful postures evoke thoughts of subtle music and beautiful scenes of the Pure Land. Singing of the limitless freedom and beauty of the Buddha realm, and the inexhaustible truth of the Buddha, celestial nymphs are eternal symbols that embody the ideals of modern Buddhists. 

Why the Bell of King Seongdeok is called the Emille Bell 

On exhibit in the Gyeongju National Museum, the Bell of King Seongdeok (National Treasure No. 29) is also called the “Emille Bell,” based on a heartbreaking legend. Silla’s King Gyeongdeok wanted to craft a bell for Bongdeoksa Temple to honor his deceased father, King Seongdeok. Although several bells were made, their sound never earned the king’s approval. To augment their sincere devotion, monks began to solicit donations from subjects. One day, a woman from an impoverished family donated her daughter as she had nothing else to give, and legend says the child was put into the molten bronze to make a new bell. When the bell was rung, everyone heard “Emille… Emille…” as if the child was calling her mother. And that’s why it came to be called the “Emille Bell.” Is it true that a child was sacrificed to make a bell? Buddhists don’t even kill insects as Buddhism prohibits all killing. So how could Buddhists make a temple bell, which is supposed to save sentient beings, by sacrificing a child? A scientific analysis of the metal in the bell revealed no phosphorus, which would have been present if human bones had been added. Sometimes legends are just legends. The flying celestial holding an incense burner is clearly and earnestly praying for King Seongdeok to be reborn in the Pure Land.

The Bell of King Seongdeok aka the Bell of Emille (National Treasure No. 29) - Source

Celestial Nymphs Depicted in Temple Compounds Praise the Buddhas Who Live in the Buddha Realm

Although mostly found as decorative design on temple bells, celestial nymphs are also found on the ceilings, main altars and canopies of Dharma halls, and on stone lanterns, monks’ stupas and decorative paintings on the walls of Dharma halls. On the underside of canopies placed above Buddha statues we also see various carved designs of dragons, flames, precious jewels and phoenixes. Surrounding the canopies are celestial nymphs seeming to emerge from the ceiling. These dazzling sculptures give a dramatic effect to the inner space of Buddha halls. Let us find out more about the celestial nymphs adorning these places.

Celestial nymphs are divided into three types: those that play instruments, those that fly and those that make offerings. 

Instrument-playing celestials play various instruments; flying celestials are either descending from heaven or flying horizontally; those making offerings to the Buddha are holding lotuses or incense burners. Temple bells from the 8th century typically feature instrument-playing celestials sitting lightly on clouds with their robes fluttering upward in graceful curves. Temple bells from the late 8th century and 9th century typically feature celestials making offerings while kneeling on lotus pedestals or instrument-playing celestials. In addition to temple bells, celestial nymphs are also found on Dharma halls, pagodas and monks’ stupas. Some noteworthy celestial nymphs adorning Dharma halls are found: on the altar of the Main Buddha Hall at Beomeosa Temple in Busan; on the ceiling of the Main Buddha Hall at Yongjusa Temple in Hwaseong; and those emerging from the ceiling of the Main Buddha Hall of Songgwangsa Temple in Wanju. In the Main Buddha Hall of Yongjusa, celestial nymphs are depicted flying through the air.


Celestial nymphs on the canopy of the Main Buddha Hall at Yongjusa Temple in Hwaseong. With one leg bent back and the other stretched out, two nymphs fly over the heads of Buddha statues, their robes fluttering.
A celestial nymph, adorning the canopy of the Pure Land Hall at Hwa-amsa Temple in Wanju,
flies in dynamic fashion holding a flower in her hand. 

On the ceiling, two celestial nymphs are depicted flying over the heads of Buddha statues and surrounded by flying phoenixes and floating wish fulfilling-gems, symbols of auspicious energy. With one leg bent back and the other stretched out, their postures suggest movement while their robes and arm bands flying upward evoke dramatically the sense of flight. The luxurious flowers adorning their robes and arm bands symbolize devout faith to the Buddha. The whole scene depicts an aesthetically beautiful fantasy or dream. 

The celestial nymphs on the Main Buddha Hall of Yongjusa Temple, though small in size, exude magical power that draws onlookers into the Buddha realm. The stone lantern in front of Ven. Na-ong’s (aka Boje Jonja) stupa at Silleuksa Temple in Yeoju features outstanding bas-relief images of celestial nymphs. On each plane of the octagonal lantern chamber, carved from agalmatolite, an arch-shaped window is cut, and the rest of the plane features elaborate inscription of celestial nymphs and dragons. The face of one celestial nymph holding a lotus bud is damaged, but her graceful body and softly fluttering robes make it easy to imagine her in flight. Her voluptuous body entwined in thin, soft cloth is captivating to the point that we can almost feel her bodily warmth. 

Other noteworthy depictions of celestial nymphs are: those inscribed under the roofstone of National Preceptor Hongbeop’s stupa, retrieved from the Jeongtosa Temple Ruins and now displayed in the National Museum of Korea; Seon Master Cheolgam’s stupa at Ssangbongsa Temple in Hwasun; a monk’s stupa at Godalsa Temple Ruins in Yeoju; the Three-Story Pagoda at Jinjeonsa Temple Ruins in Yangyang. When we see depictions of a celestial nymph, we should look beyond their physical form. With knowledge of their significance, you might feel their free and joyful movements as well as listen to their sublime music resounding through the universe. You might even visualize a scene from the Pure Land with celestial nymphs flying about. Wherever featured in a temple compound, celestial nymphs symbolize our veneration and exultation to the Buddha and the Pure Land.

Celestial Music in Praise of Buddhas’ Merits Instruments Played by Celestial Nymphs

The music played by celestial nymphs expresses the profound joy of Dharma, and the deep sound of liberation that transcends this mundane life confined in a physical body. Playing various wind or string instruments, they lead us to the world of nirvana.

Music has always been closely related to Buddhism as it can effectively praise, adorn and present offerings to the Buddha. Many Buddhist scriptures, including the Lotus Sutra, often feature musical gods like kinnaras and gandharvas, as well as performances of celestial music and music to entertain. However, in principle, temples prohibit music intended to entertain. This includes all music that does not guide one to higher realms of thought; including dancing and singing, as well as gongs and drums. 

The Buddha said, “Singing is not allowed except on two occasions. One is to praise the virtues of great monks and the other is to chant the Impermanence Sutra.” In this way the Buddha warned against music for the sake of one’s enjoyment. A monastic’s foremost task is to cultivate themselves physically and mentally in order to attain enlightenment and to edify sentient beings. “Enchanting music” is an obstacle to Buddhist practice. 

The reason the Buddha allows offerings of music but prohibits singing and dancing is because he has great compassion for people, and those who offer music to the Buddha receive blessings according to their wishes. By integrating passages from various sutras, we can conclude that any singing and dancing should be for the sake of Buddhism’s Three Jewels, and meant to praise the Buddha. Playing music to glorify the Buddha is to achieve great merit and a way to attain the path to Buddhahood.

Instruments for Offerings of Sound 

Celestial nymphs praise the Buddha, play celestial music, sprinkle fragrant flowers and reside in the heavenly realm of abundant joy. That’s why Buddhists believe they can instantly reach the Pure Land of the Buddha if they can even grasp the hem of their fluttering robes. A bipa (a kind of lute) is the instrument most often held by celestial nymphs. Most of the instruments they hold are ancient musical instruments from central Asia. Each nymph seems to be playing alone, but in actuality they are all playing together as an ensemble to express the joy of Dharma. They play blissful music of the Buddhist paradise as described in the scriptures of the Pure Land tradition. 

Of the four heavenly kings that protect temples,
the one in charge of the north holds a bipa (a kind of lute) in his hand.

If you have no idea of what a bipa is, think about the four heavenly kings enshrined in the Gate of Heavenly Kings. One of them is holding a bipa in his hand. Why does this king, the one who protects the BuddhaDharma, holds bipa instead of a sword, arrow, spear or vajra? It is because the bipa enjoyed great popularity in ancient central Asia, where most people lived a nomadic lifestyle and rode horses. As a bipa could be played while riding horseback, many warriors played them. That’s probably why that one king, clad in warrior attire, is holding a bipa. Some noteworthy celestial nymphs playing a bipa are depicted on the pillars of the Main Buddha Hall at Beomeosa Temple in Busan, and on the ceiling of the Main Buddha Hall at Jangnyuksa Temple in Yeongdeok. 

Flute-playing celestial nymphs are inscribed
on the main altar at Gwallyongsa Temple in Changnyeong.

Other instruments used to make offerings of music are the piri (a kind of flute), haegeum (a string instrument resembling a fiddle), janggu (hourglass-shaped drum), saenghwang and bara (spherical hand drum). Most of these are depicted in the Main Buddha Hall of Naesosa Temple in Buan. Every instrument depicted on the ceiling has fluttering robes dangling from it. Beautiful celestial nymphs are also inscribed on the main altar of Gwallyongsa Temple in Changnyeong.


Celestial Nymphs Playing Instruments and Dancing 

Buddhism says we can attain Buddhahood by praising and presenting offerings to the Buddha. In Buddhist art, offerings of music are done by either celestial nymphs or ordinary musicians dancing and playing music. Most human musicians have either the features of heavenly beings or bodhisattvas with haloes, or ordinary people in colorful attire and round hats. Celestial nymphs playing instruments are often depicted on the ceilings of Buddha halls, on pagodas enshrined with Buddha’s cremains, on sarira utensils, and on the platform of an eminent monk’s stupa. 

The nymphs on the ceiling of the Main Buddha Hall at Songgwangsa Temple in Wanju are featured in various scenes playing instruments or dancing. Also seen are traditional Korean elements such as some dance movements in the style of the mask dance and in a woman playing the daegeum (a kind of flute) and wearing a shaman’s hat decorated with a feather. At Silleuksa Temple in Jecheon two symmetrically positioned celestial nymphs are depicted, a style hinting at Chinese influence. 

The stupa for Jijeung Daesa at Bongamsa Temple in Mungyeong features celestial nymphs kneeling with joined palms, as well as others playing various instruments. Some outstanding depictions of celestial nymphs inscribed on stone pagodas include: instrument-playing nymphs on the three-story stone pagoda at Baekjangam Hermitage (affiliated with Silsangsa Temple in Namwon) and the Four-Lion-Three-Story Stone Pagoda at Hwaeomsa Temple. The celestial nymphs inscribed on the base of the Four-Lion-Three-Story Stone Pagoda at Hwaeomsa Temple are meant to offer praise to the Buddha’s sarira which are enshrined within. As can be seen, celestial nymphs play various instruments, dance and sing to praise the Buddha and present offerings of music to the Buddha realm. 

Sunday, September 3, 2017

UNESCO tentative list for S. Korea

UNESCO World Heritage Center has a transparent posting of the tentative world heritage sites for each country. As I understand it, much paperwork is needed to even apply to put one's own country's site on the tentative list, and many tentative sites remain just that ... tentative for many years. Here is the tentative list with the most recent updates being January 24, 2017. Note that South Korea added one more (Stone Buddhas and Pagodas at Hwasun Unjusa Temple) since the last updating of the UNESCO website. 

Tentative list for Republic of Korea:

Tentative list for Democratic People's Republic of Korea:


Friday, September 1, 2017

UNESCO Heritage Sites in Korea

Thank you, Duyong, for sharing your PowerPoint presentation. This was a very exemplary lesson plan that your designed for foreigners to have raised awareness regarding the many UNESCO sites within Korea and what their value means to the nation. Really well put together!




























Thursday, December 31, 2015

UNESCO Sites in South Korea (2015)

UNESCO World Heritage refers to both cultural and natural heritage sites registered on the World Heritage List. In November 1972, UNESCO adopted the "Convention Concerning the Protection of the World Cultural and Natural Heritage" in the General Conference during its seventeenth session. Under the Convention, the World Heritage committee established a World Heritage List that includes cultural and natural heritage with outstanding value whose conservation is recognized to be in the interest of all humanity. 

As of July 2015, Korea has eleven cultural heritage sites and one natural heritage site.

Apart from this, UNESCO also has a separate program called 'Memory of the World' and 'Intangible Heritage of Humanity'. In Korea, there are seven and eight of them respectively.



World Cultural Heritage Sites

Korea's Cultural Heritage conveys a genuine sentiment of simplicity and peacefulness. The historical background of the heritage is diverse, encompassing the history of Korea from ancient times (Dolmen sites) to the Joseon Dynasty. The sites embody a wide variety of values from tidy and neat artistic spirit to scientific rationality as witnessed in such traditional constructions as a royal palaces or temples. A total of eleven Korean cultural sites are registered on the list of World Cultural Heritage Sites including:
  1. Jongmyo Shrine (1995)
  2. Haeinsa Temple Janggyeong Panjeon, the Depositories for the Tripitaka Koreana Woodblocks (1995)
  3. Seokguram Grotto and Bulguksa Temple (1995)
  4. Hwaseong Fortress (1997)
  5. Changdeokgung Palace Complex (1997)
  6. Gyeongju Historic Areas (2000)
  7. Gochang, Hwasun and Ganghwa Dolmen Sites (2000)
  8. Royal Tombs of the Joseon Dynasty (2009)
  9. Historic Villages of Korea: Hahoe and Yangdong (2010)
  10. Namhansanseong Fortress (2014)
  11. Baekje Historic Areas (2015)

World Natural Heritage Sites

UNESCO chooses to-be World Natural Heritage Sites based on an objective evaluation of historic and academic worth, and then assists in ensuring their preservation. 
  1. The volcanic island of Jeju-do has an outstandingly beautiful natural environment that is significant for its geological features and ecological value. In 2007, Jeju-do Island was listed as a UNESCO Natural Heritage Site under the name of "Jeju Volcanic Island and Lava Tubes". This includes Mount Hallasan Natural Reserve, the Geomunoreum Lava Tube System and Seongsan Ilchulbong Peak. 

Intangible Cultural Heritage

An international assessment committee appointed by the UNESCO Secretary General reviews the list of World Intangible Heritage of Humanity every two years with the mission of safeguarding and protecting such intangible heritage as language, culture, music, dance, games, myths, rituals, customs and handicrafts. A total of eighteen examples of Korean intangible heritage are on the list, including: 
  1. The Royal Ancestral Ritual in the Jongmyo Shrine and its Music (2001)
  2. The Pansori Epic Chant (2003)
  3. The Gangneung Danoje Festival (2005)
  4. Ganggangsullae Dance (2009)
  5. Namsadang-nori Performance (2009)
  6. Yeongsanjae Buddhist Ritual (2009)
  7. Jeju Chilmeoridang-yeongdeung-gut Shaman Ritual (2009)
  8. The Cheoyongmu Dance (2009)
  9. Gagok, lyric song cycles accompanied by an orchestra (2010)
  10. Falconry, a living human heritage (2010)
  11. Daemokjang, traditional wooden architecture (2010)
  12. Weaving of Mosi (fine ramie) in the Hansan region (2011)
  13. Taekkyeon, a traditional Korean martial art (2011)
  14. Jultagi, tightrope walking (2011)
  15. Arirang, lyrical folk song in the Republic of Korea (2012)
  16. Kimjang, making and sharing kimchi (2013)
  17. Nongak, Community band music, dance and rituals in the Republic of Korea (2014)
  18. Juldarigi, traditional ritual wishing for a good harvest, a tug-of-war game (2015)

Memory of the World Register


The Korean documents declared UNESCO Memory of the World include:
  1. The Hunminjeongeum Manuscript(1997)
  2. Joseonwangjosillok, the Annals of the Joseon Dynasty (1997)
  3. Seungjeongwon Ilgi, the Diaries of the Royal Secretariat (2001)
  4. Jikji Simche Yojeol, the Second Volume of "Anthology of Great Buddhist Priests' Zen Teachings" (2001)
  5. Printing Woodblocks of the Tripitaka Koreana and Miscellaneous Buddhist Scriptures (2007)
  6. Uigwe, the Royal Protocols of the Joseon Dynasty (2007)
  7. Donguibogam, the Principles and Practice of Eastern Medicine (2009)
  8. Ilseongnok, Records of Daily Reflections (2011)
  9. Arresting the demonstrating students, archives of the May 18 Democratic Uprising against the Military Regime (2011)
  10. Nanjung Ilgi: War Diary of Admiral Yi Sun-sin (2013)
  11. Archives of Saemaul Undong (New Community Movement) (2013)
  12. Confucian Printing Woodblocks in Korea (2015)
  13. The Archives of the KBS Special Live Broadcast “Finding Dispersed Families” (2015)

Above information adapted from the Visit Korea "UNESCO World Heritage" posting.

Saturday, December 19, 2015

Gongju and Buyeo (Baekje Culture)

Dating back almost 1700 years, the Baekje Kingdom at its height was the center of arts and culture on the Korean peninsula and beyond.

King Munyeong's Gilt-bronze Incense Burner of Baekje, was molded on a Boshan incense burner. A Boshan incense burner symbolized the mountain dwelling of the gods, and such incense burners are covered in symbols portraying celestial affairs. This incense burner is mounted with the mystical phoenix, the lid is mountain shaped and filled with holes for the smoke to escape. Since its discovery in 1993 and then its designation in 1996 as a National Treasure of Korea, the incense burner became a symbol of national pride and an icon of age-old art in the Korean peninsula.

About the Baekje Kingdom

Baekje (18 BC - 660 AD) was one of the Three Kingdoms of Korea—along with Goguryeo (37 BC - 668 AD) and Silla (57 BC - 935 AD)—and its people were descendants of Buyeo tribes people of Manchuria. Baekje tribes migrated southward to what is now Seoul where the Baekje leaders set up a capital, asserting control over the local tribes people and beating back pressure from the northern kingdom of Goguryeo.

Baekje flourished in the 4th century, trading with Japan and the Chinese kingdom of Chin. Goguryeo then forced Baekje south from Seoul to Ungjin (now Kongju) in 475, so for the next 63 years Ungjin became the Baekje capital. Ungjin was near water—the Geum or “Brocade” River—and well defended by the Kongsan fortress, but it was too far from the sea and too surrounded by mountains to allow easy communication with the outside world.
Click to enlarge
King Song-wang (ruling 523 – 553) moved the capital downstream to Sabi (now Buyeo) to a place on the Geum River now known specifically as Paengma or “White Horse” (the name explained later). Sabi was nearer the sea, had a large, rich farming area, and also had the nearby riverside Sabi fortress at Puso-san.

Cultural Sharing during the Baekje Kingdom

Baekje made many contributions to the Japanese culture in the 6th century—most obviously, the teachings of Buddha and Buddha temple architecture, some of which can be still seen near Nara, Japan, at the Horyuji Temple (the world’s oldest wooden building). 

Baekje also benefited from the direct importation of Chinese culture. The Baekje upper class knew the Confucian classics, Chinese medicine, and divination.

Baekje artifacts speak of a society that was interactive with a wide range of tribes people and cultural interactions. Baekje tombs remain distinct from other tombs of contemporary kingdoms. Burial urns now housed in the Buyeo National Museum hark back to tribal culture, while Buddhist temple objects and figures testify to a strong religious flavor and the import, assimilation and development of Buddhism. The tombs give some indication of the society and economy—elite clans which evolved from tribal holdovers as well as elaborate ranks and grades of salary for officials and military leaders (as can be seen through Chinese imports used by military elites). Farmers paid taxes in silk and rice. In battles, prisoners were taken as slaves.



The Demise of Baekje

Baekje came to an end in 660 when it was overcome by combined forces from T’ang China and the neighboring Silla Kingdom, which was based in Gyeongju. The interference of Chinese forces came after a long hiatus (220 – 589 AD) during which China had been fragmented into many small kingdoms. Prior to 220 the Han dynasty had claimed large parts of northern Korea (the Lolong colony) but the fall of Han allowed the Koreans (or proto-Koreans) to develop their own kingdoms—Goguryeo, Silla and Baekje. In the early 600’s, China was reunified by the Sui (581 – 618 AD) and then the T’ang (618 – 907 AD). T’ang, which was the greatest empire the world had seen, naturally aimed to recapture the glories of the long-gone Han empire, and gaining control over Korea was part of this design.

Overcoming one of the Three Kingdoms in the Korean peninsula was not so easy as the kingdoms were adept at alliance politics, manipulating each other and foreigners in China and Japan. Koguryeo in particular was armed, and it beat back the repeated Sui and T’ang invasions in Manchuria. Since force was ineffective, the T’ang government combined forces and political manipulation with the Silla kingdom, knowing that Silla and Baekje were at odds. T’ang struck an alliance with Silla, and their combined forces destroyed Baekje in 660 AD.

Modern Buyeo Reveals the Denouement in 660 AD

The T’ang forces, purportedly numbering 130,000, approached Sabi from the north. The commanding general, Su Ting-fang, stopped when he reached the river facing the Sabi fortress on Puso-san. The diviners said that he couldn’t cross the river until he got rid of the river dragon which protected the Sabi fortress. Knowing that dragons were pushovers for white horses, General Su went fishing using the head of a white horse for bait. As the story goes, he lured the dragon to the surface, killed it, and then led the army across the river to assault the Baekje capital. Another version of the story is that a storm caused by the protective dragon raged, and so Su Ting-fang using the head of a white horse which dragons have a special attraction to, fished for the dragon amidst thunder and lightning and was able to lure and capture the live dragon, who, in exchange for its life, stilled the storm so the general's army could safely cross the river.

The Chinese were not alone in their assault. Kim Yusin, the great Silla general, had fought his way through the Baekje army led by General Kyebaek (see statue in Buyeo) and had laid siege to Sabi fortress all around the south wall. The Chinese assault across the Geum river and directly into the fortress left the Baekje people nowhere to flee. 3,000 court women unable to flee and preferring suicide to being taken captive by the horny hordes flung themselves over a cliff, now called the Nakhwa-am or “Falling Flowers Cliff”.  Though King Uija managed to get away to Ungjin (Kongju), his kingdom was crushed.

Mural on one of the walls of the Goran-sa. The mural faces the healing medicinal waters of Goran-sa.
Buyeo Town

The name Buyeo comes from the ancestral home of the Baekje people in Manchuria, and for a while it was called Nam-Buyeo or “South Buyeo”, but it is universally known as Baekje, the “Hundred Tribes”.

Cheongnim-sa was once an elaborate temple, but now all that exists is a site marked in downtown Buyeo and two important stone relics—a weathered stone Buddha (National Treasure #108) and the five-storied stone Baekje Pagoda (National Treasure #9), which is only one of two pagodas that have survived since the Three Kingdoms period. Su Ting-fang added insult to injury when he carved the story of his victory over Baekje on the base of the pagoda, hence the “Pacifying Baekje Pagoda” name which is sometimes attached to it. The shame of this inscription was such that the survivors buried the pagoda and it lay buried—and therefore better preserved—at Mireuk-sa some kilometers away until the 1890’s.

The five-storied stone Baekje pagoda (National Treasure #9),
sometimes shamefully known as the "Pacifying Baekje Pagoda".
Strangely, this Buddha looks very much like the Easter Island moai at Ahu Tahai ...

Puso-san has a hiking road from the Baekje museum that goes up the mountain and into the forest on what used to be the Sabi fortress. At the top of Puso-san is Yeongil-lu (“Greeting-the-sun” Pavillion) and the Songweol-lu (“Seeing-off-the-setting-moon” Pavillion), and the Nakhwa-am (“Falling Flowers Rock”).

One of the pavillions at the top of Nakhwa-am.
Goran-sa is the "Korean Orchid" temple below the Nakhwa-am near the water’s edge. Its name is derived from the Gorancho plant (Crypsinus hastatus), which is something like an orchid and which grows in profusion near the adjacent spring of medicinal water. This spring is where the Baekje kings got their drinking water, and the temple site was constructed to commemorate the “Falling Flowers” of Nakhwa-am. According to legend, the king enjoyed drinking water from Goran-sa and sent someone to fetch his mineral water every day. Before drinking, court ladies floated leaves on the water to prove it came from the temple. Legend also has it that if a person drinks a cup of Goran mineral water, he or she will become three years younger. [It didn't work. Several of us tried it.]


For those interested in a boat ride on the Geum “Brocade” River, the boat will take passengers past the Choryong-dae, or “Fishing-for-the-Dragon Terrace”) where Su Ting-fang is said to have caught the dragon.



King Munyeong’s Tomb in Kongju

Kongju, capital of Baekje from 475 to 538 AD, lies upstream from Buyeo on the “Brocade” River. As the Middletons point out in their Some Korean Journeys (RAS, 1975), Kongju has twice had its status as capital taken away—it lost out to Buyeo in 538 and then to Daejeon in 1931 under the Japanese Government-General.

Kongju also has a mountain (Kongsan) on the river, a fortress larger than the one in Buyeo on the mountain (Kongsan-seong), a Chinese connection (the Ming helped fight Hideyoshi’s Japanese invaders here in the 1590’s), a set of royal tombs, and a branch of the National Museum.


dragon on the tilework in King Munyeong's tomb
fanciful tilework inside King Munyeong's cave
Kongju’s greatest treasure is the Baekje tomb of King Munyeong (also spelled Muryeong) and who ruled 501 – 523 AD. Munyeong’s tomb is in the tomb complex near the river. Over the centuries the other tombs were picked clean by thieves and scrofulous antique dealers, but Munyeong’s tomb remained undiscovered until, by accident, government restorers happened on it while working on a nearby grave in 1971. Excavations revealed an undisturbed Baekje royal tomb, guarded in the entry chamber by a little stone pig and containing hundreds of jewels, decorations, pots, and a very diverse assortment of artifacts. Discovery of the tomb was to Korea what the discovery of Tuthankhamen’s tomb was to Egypt, or like the discovery of Ch’in Huang’ti’s terra cotta army was to China.

Outstanding among the tomb objects is Munyeong’s gold crown ornament, in a flame-shaped pattern hung with gold decorations and sewn, apparently onto a silk cap which did not survive the centuries. In the Kongju National Museum along with the guardian pig and the crown ornaments, are bronze mirrors, gold earrings, jade, hairpins, pots, headrests, figurines, and decorated bricks and roof tiles. Where Baekje studies prior to that time had relied on the likes of Su Ting-fang’s carved account on the Baekje Pagoda in Buyeo, Munyeong’s tomb opened up new vistas for comparisons and studies of the transmission of culture among the kingdoms and peoples of East Asia. Until recently, visitors could enter the now emptied tomb but which has intricately designed tile work; however, now that a replica of the tomb has been included in a nearby viewing room, the tomb, having survived centuries is being preserved and removed from the influx of visitors so that it can continue to survive and breathe the presence of the past to the present and future generations.
Imagery of King Munyeong wearing his Baekje crown ornaments.
The mythical, mystical creature - the guardian pig of King Munyeong's tomb
References:

Royal Asiatic Society Korea Branch detailed printout (take the tour of Buyeo and Kongju)

Visit Korea. "Gongju: The Glory of Baekje Lives On" by Robert Koehler. June 27, 2008.