A See-scape of Seoul

Korean is known for its "Miracle on the Han (River)", the time when Korea had a world-startling burst of financial advancement back in the 1970s and 1980s. In 1988 Korea held the Olympics which basically "put the country on the map" and made the tiny nation known to the western world. In this time of great economic development architecture developed from simple shacks quickly assembled after the Korean War [David Hyoungbok Lee in "Who Will Answer..." states that people were in fear of putting much effort in their building constructions as they were continually expecting a break in the fragile truce between the two Koreas, but then too, destruction of the country was so complete that there was little to use for building materials] to two-storey frames and brick buildings in the late 1970s and 1980s. By the 1993 World Expo more and more constructions were multi-storied with an ever-burgeoning number of high-rises and apartment complexes. The apartment buildings rose from shorter storied buildings to 14-storeys and gradually like a child's advancing age and ability to stack blocks the apartment buildings shot increasingly upward to 20 and 25-storeys and sometimes beyond.

However, with the development of the buildings and quality of materials employed in construction, evidence of the "haves" and the "have-nots" becomes strikingly apparent around Hoegi, Cheongryangri and Chegi-dong, where decent hovels from the 1960s and perhaps 1970s lie in the shadows of the wealthy. The government is continually designating such areas like these as "새마을" or New Towns where residents must develop (if they own property which very few do) or move. Hoegi, Cheongryangri and Chegi-dong areas will not remain forever as a reminder of Korea's poorer past; they too will be developed and the people without money sufficient for the higher rents in the "vastly improved areas" will be forced further and further to the precincts of Seoul suburbia in search of a home that they with their slender means might be able to afford.


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The following pictures were taken 16 June 2012. As I frequently pass by this place, I've noticed gradual changes since the picts above were taken. First one house got knocked down and the neighboring people built a type of extended cellar from their house using part of the then-empty space. Another neighbor extended their living quarters with a wrap-around porch made from all sorts of discarded boards, doors and other wind-blocking materials. Now those houses too are gone.

And to the left of the pictures above were several more ramshackle houses, one flew the flag of the shaman or mudeung. When taking the pict on June 16th, 2012, kitchen appliances seem to have been flung out of the houses, windows have disappeared and walking space is filled with all sorts of household trash and debris. And ... the mudeung flag no longer flies. It's sad to see all of the old slip away and become neutered by the synthetic and cold veneer of modernity.

As I've heard, once 75% of the people in an area sell to a New Town construction, the remaining 25% have no choice but to sell, and at very low rates. The secret is to be in the 70-75% range as those people can command the highest returns on their land and houses. The following people just get gypped.

The larger house is where the mudeung flag used to fly from.

Swimming and Chiropractics for a Low-key Holiday

This year, festive Christmas holidays have somehow eluded me, not to say that I didn't enjoy the grilled-cheese sandwiches and pina coladas that my friends and I gorged on Christmas day was bad, or that spending my holidays on the floor due to ribs being out was terrible. I very much prefer spending quality time with friends instead of slaving over food prep [the philosophy behind hours and hours prepping for ONE meal that gets devoured in 20 minutes is unfathomable to me!], and grilled-cheese sandwiches did hit the spot. As for being flopped out on the floor, hey, it's warm and a great place to flop with a pile of books and a steady supply of herbal teas .... so, while Christmas holidays haven't been traditional or packed full of activities, the days have been low-key but relaxing.

Two things though have made the holidays meaningful (considering my 4 dislocated ribs): the swimming pool and a rather unusual chiropractic office in Seoul.

The Swimming Pool
Last week the pool 400 meters from my house called my name ... and I have responded every weekday since. Swimming classes and water therapy classes don't spin my blender so during the 'free swim' hours [8-8:50; 1-1:50, 6-6:50], when guests can splash, dive, swim or just frog around, I sink into the waters to relentlessly plow furrows for 50 minutes. If I plow the waters for the full 50 minutes AND the others in my lane aren't out for just a lazy crawl, then I can swim 36 laps, the full mile, but when the music stops 50 minutes after the hour, guests are likewise to stop and clear the pool for the next onslaught of frivolous water babies. (Bummer - I've only swum the full mile 2 out of 5 times so far.) To best aim for swimming the mile, choosing a lane is important. Each lane is labeled beginners, intermediate or advanced swimmers but labels don't mean nada, so I choose a lane not based on the label but on the number of individuals in the lane (some lanes are ridiculously crowded) and the speed of the swimmers.

Of course the swimming culture is different here than that in the States - all guests must wear caps, (most wear goggles too) and take a shower in the nude with everyone else [hey, it's Korean jimjilbang (sauna) culture]. One BIG difference evidently is the 'guarding of the lives of the guests' by a very attentive life guard; I just shake my head at his diligence - he spends the majority of his time text messaging without a glance up!

Korean jimjilbang culture really takes over after the swim! Two large 'bathing' pools, one hot and the other quite cool, are in the shower room but are NOT to be entered until the body has been heated under a scalding shower and scrubbed free of bodily impurities. I love the sharing and conviviality of the women during this time, squatting or sitting on the floor scouring themselves and sometimes their neighbors while yakking away. Today one woman even came over and asked if I wanted my back scrubbed, which she did with such vehemence and force [hey, remember I have misplaced ribs!] that a couple other ladies told her to back off cuz she was hurting me. She did lessen the force, much to my relief, but the gesture of acceptance was really appreciated!

A New Chiropractic Office in Seoul
Ribs, ribs, never gave them much thought before. My little November-December surprise this year has been a real "treat" [heavy sarcasm here] - some ribs have popped off the sternum. Although I was going to one chiropractic clinic, when two more ribs abandoned ship last week while sleeping on my side, I abandoned that chiropractic clinic for another that held promises of specializing in rebellious thoraccics and wayward ribs.

SKY Wellness Center is the latest in chiropractic additions in Seoul. It opened in early December this year and treats clients more holistically than any other chiropractic office I've been to or even heard about .... and I've been to and searched out quite a few! Upon entering the office, the ambiance is simple, airy and inviting. OK, I'm partial here because the office is decorated around green, my favorite color, but also a color connected with healing, health and nature - in short, a great representative color for a more naturalistic type of healing.

Also, unlike ANY chiropractic office I've been to, a 10-minute massage is part of the treatment as the massage loosens and relaxes the muscles and makes the adjustment/therapy more effective. What's more, the chiropractic doctors don't build their exclusive and personal clientele but rather holistic care is centered around the clients needs, so clients could have two doctors treating them. For example, Dr. Sean the owner and the person who carefully did my health history to determine the best treatment for me will be focusing more on my back (and ribs) while Dr. Choi will correct my straightened neck and treat my scoliosis. [I've never heard of anyone getting positive results with chiropractics for scoliosis so am looking forward to this ...... and hey, I'm intensely fascinated with medical anthropology, so not only will I benefit physically but also mentally from this experience!]

Anyway, today celebrates treatment #3 and I have to say, I am VERY satisfied with the treatment, the atmosphere and extremely attentive staff, and most importantly the holistic care given to my very [strong emphasis on 'very'] contrary back. While many chiropractic centers are organized around a brisk pace and "efficiency", the primary philosophy at SKY Wellness Center is focused on the client and the efficacy of chiropractics!

A Hanji Exhibition

My great friend Heather invited me to her hanji (Korean traditional rice paper) exhibition. She has been doing hanji art for approximately 8 months and her single piece of painstakingly crafted hanji furniture was entered in the exhibition, a feat that she is proud of and rightly so. Many of the entries, especially those of the larger furniture items, are the result of individuals dedicating months and months of their time to craft the single item. Imagine in the "old days" when such exacting art was only possible for the nobility or richer classes of people. But then the commoners didn't need such frivolities as they just didn't have any extra socks or clothing items to put in the furniture.

Notice the bas relief detail on the round container, a rice container for keeping bugs and mice away from the precious staple. To achieve such a raised artistic application, the artisan had to carefully handcut the shape 5-7 times and then glaze-glue each layer individually onto the surface of the container [the base material is either made of cardboard, which becomes very sturdy with all the layers of hanji and rice-flour glue, or of wood itself]. Then after each was glaze-glued on, the shape had to be pounded very hard over and over again to achieve a strong denseness that would wear well over time and survive some battering in the household environment.


Next notice each of the boxes and their intricate design. For cutting such intricate designs, patterns were of course used but no cutting template, so the endeavor took hours and tremendous steadiness of hand. Many of the lattice-work detail evident on the surface are the repetition of symbols based on Chinese characters. Heather's art director had guided us "foreign" girls on a tour around the showcase room and explained the symbols and colors delicately combined in the artistic creations. Many of the symbols I was familiar with but the one which I had only seen in the Korea University Museum was the 'bat', which is very propitious is meaning!

Goryeo Dynasty Lacquerware

Image source

옻칠: 한국의 찬란한 예술 (Lacquer: Korea's Brilliant Art)
Carla Stansifer, Junior Fulbright Researcher, gave her presentation "The Mysteries of Goryeo Dynasty Shell Inlay Lacquer Ware" <고려시대 나전칠기의 신비> at the open Fulbright forum a couple of weeks ago. Her research has been centered around the Goryeo Dynasty lacquer ware for the purpose of making the first documentary on Korean lacquer ware in English.

Only 16 Goryeo lacquer ware pieces are extant worldwide with only 1 in Korea - the only one in Korea is a monk's whisk that had a wealth of horsetail strands on each end and was used for whisking evil impediments out of one's path as one proceded through life. 10 pieces are in Japan, 3 in the U.S. and Carla discovered one in England (I believe it was at the British Museum), but I didn't catch where the remaining one is. All of the 16 extant pieces are related to Buddhist rituals, which is really not surprising for Buddhism flourished in the Goryeo Dynasty. The following dynasty, Chosun, and its ideological purges of Buddhism and simplification of art due to the more ascetic demands of the new dynasty, demanded change. Therefore, through the remaining 16 Goryeo pieces, vital understanding of the philosophical changes between dynasties can be traced.

4 unique characteristics of the Goryeo dynasty lacquer ware are:

(1) inlay of wire and twisted wire - some pieces have delicate strands of twisted wire as small as .4mm
(2 & 3) mother-of-pearl (shiny, glossy and reflective) and tortoise-shell (most frequently red) inlay
(4) same motifs and patterns - most common examples: geometric patterns, peonies, chrysanthemums (9-petaled and sometimes more), clouds, turtles, c-shaped petals [many of these items seem reflective of the 10 eternal symbols (싶장생) but when I asked Carla about this, she said that the 싶장생 were first apparent in Chosun lacquer ware art, not in the 16 extant Goryeo pieces.]

However, with the change of dynasties, the changes in philosophies were reflected in the art. Functions of lacquer ware objects no longer were limited to Buddhist rituals but became more mundane and common - make-up holders for example. And designs became more naturalistic meaning you can identify the object but it was not a realistic reproduction. It seems that as Buddhism was forced from the towns and villages to secluded mountain retreats the 오상화 (the imaginary flower in Buddhist art) also disappeared as the philosophies of Buddhism were purged [an arguable statement] from the peninsula.

What exactly is 'lacquer'?
The lacquer is derived from the sap of the Toxicodendron verniciflua (Latin) tree or 옻칠, which is related to poison ivy and sumac and can cause a skin break out in some when in contact with it. That said, however, Toxicondendron verniciflua is believed to also have medicinal aspects obtained through its bark and leaves, and can be used to treat colds while it is currently being used for a cancer therapy. To create it into a symbolically rich lacquer for artistic purposes, the sap, which is deep brown in its raw form, has iron added to make a black lacquer or cinnabar to make red. Each color was representative of a purpose with black as the color usual for ritual ceremonies while red was for the nobility (commoners were prohibited from using red lacquer ware items).

The Toxicodendron verniciflua grows in China, the Koreas, Japan and parts of Southeast Asia; however, North Korea is deemed to have the best but unavailable sources and so Wonju in South Korea is known for its high grade tree specimens. In the Q&A session I asked about the affects of global warming on the Toxicodendron verniciflua, especially since there is concern that the pine tree will disappear from the peninsula if the temperature rises only 2 degrees Celsius more. The reply was that there is concern about the rising temperatures affecting the abundance and supply of the tree as the tree grows particularly well along the 38th parallel with the healthiest and best examples in China, the Koreas and Japan.

Lacquer in some form seems to have originated in Southeast Asia, but in transporting it along trade routes, lacquer evolved as did the art that corresponded with each country as it adapted lacquer to fit in with its own art. The lacquer in Korea is a time-exacting process for extracting the sap, coloring it appropriately and applying it with care as the final art process over an even more time-consuming process of carving, inlay of shells from all over the world (abalone however makes the finest and best inlay) and wire application. Lacquer is NOT shellac; shellac is cheap and tawdry in comparison. At present, lacquers are made from the cashew tree, other trees and plastic. Lacquer is to be touched, smelled, tasted, experienced! To identify the quality of "lacquer", stroke it, rub it, warm it up and you can smell and easily distinguish it from cheaper forms of shellac or gloss.

Although several artisans are on the Internet and show great skill in their lacquer ware application, 오형만 (Oh, Hyung Man) is one of the human resources who is famous for his inlay shell and lacquer ware art and is a nationally designated cultural property holder.

The 2 items below are more representative of Chosun Dynasty style of red and black lacquer ware as they are more domestic in purpose (2 styles of jewelry boxes) and certainly not related to Buddhism or religious purposes.

Herb Medicine Museum

The weather is bitterly cold but still I must walk to keep at bay the pinched nerves in my back and neck. Walk and freeze, walk and freeze. Was walking near Chegi-dong and remembered there was an herb museum that I had been meaning to visit ... didn't figure any of it was in English (and I was right) but needed to escape the brutal wind. I went inside and the elderly woman greeting the rare visitor grabbed my cold hands and warmed them as she led me to the entrance of the museum .... whereupon I was greeted by an elderly man who escorted me throughout the museum, all the while telling me in Korean, "I'm sorry I don't speak English" while I'm telling him "I'm sorry I need to study more". Ah, he was wonderful as he showed me what he thought I needed to know and as, when I had a question, he would zigzag me through the museum to a display that would visually explain more about my question which he furthered with a simplified explanation ... interspersed with Japanese! [Japanese is the language for group tourism now but he probably learned some in elementary school during colonial times.]

Heo Jun and the Donguibogam
Heo Jun (1539-1615), a royal doctor, is believed to be a father of Korean herbal/traditional medicine. He was commissioned by King Seonjo (1552-1608, Chosun's 14th monarch) to compile the traditional medical philosophies and treatments of East Asia of the time. His 25-volume compilation, Donguibogam, is based on some 80 Chinese medical books and took 10 years to compile; it then took another 3 years to engrave in wood blocks for printing and distribution purposes. The Donguibogam is divided into 5 categories: (1) internal diseases, (2) external diseases and somatology, (3) miscellaneous diseases in gynecology and pediatrics, (4) medicinal decoction [extracting chemicals from mostly plants through boiling], and (5) acupuncture (the body is charted as having 365 points for specific acupucture treatments!). While a vast majority is very enlightening on a very advanced medical system, some of the medical beliefs are certainly to be questioned in modern medicine - examples being, "becoming invisible", "how to see ghosts" and "how to change a fetus from a girl to a boy". There is one, however, I think I must try to alleviate my pinched nerves in my back and neck: "Stiffness of the neck, front or back, is often caused by humidity in the body. A Chinese quince is effective when you cannot move your neck due to tensed muscles."

The Donguibogam was designated in 1991 as Korean's National Treasure #1,085 and as of 2009 the Donguibogam has been accepted as another (Korea's eighth) of UNESCO's Memory of the World Registers. To understand about Heo Jun and his Donguibogam is important for understanding the purpose of the museum.

The Museum Itself
Because Heo Jun is instrumental for starting the theories of body types and what those bodies can eat, the human body has been classified into 4 categories: the taeyangin, soyangin, taeeunmin, and soeunmin. To understand a person's type, the body shape, skills and talents, constant state of mind, personality, mental desires and food affinities must be taken into consideration. The elderly man was a bit surprised I knew about this and asked me what my type was - I told him I THOUGHT I was was a soyangin but didn't know. He showed me a display but there are too many considerations for me to self-diagnose myself accurately. That said, however, according to a traditional medical doctor, nowadays with globalization and access to forces outside the traditional environment, it is very hard if not impossible to accurately categorize people now on the 4 sasang constitutional types.

Inside the museum are huge displays of plant products - 760+ - that have been identified for use in Korean medicinal therapies. Also are minerals and animal products of a much lower count. I noticed there was black rhino horn in one of the displays and that was an item that was very precious but had to be transported across continents to procure. Next to it was a bear's gall bladder, an item that is still used. Even now in Korea are bear farms where bears are caged with ducts put in their gall bladders to drain them; the bile from the gall bladder is very expensive and is regarded as a great restorative. I also asked about tiger parts (hearts, etc) but the elderly man said there were no tiger parts in this museum; when I asked again, he said there were no tiger parts used in medicinal therapies, but I have read about tigers as having great medicinal value, inspiring valor and bravery in men and having superior healing qualities. Anyway, tiger parts were nonexistent in this museum.

The wild ginseng display caught my attention. Wild mountain ginseng was contrasted with Chinese ginseng, domesticated ginseng and one other type. The wild (Korean) mountain ginseng was guestimated to be valued at around $5,000 and it was just a tiny little root! Seeing the ginseng led me to ask about the simmani, the people who petitioned the gods of the mountains for ginseng and prepared their minds and bodies for several days before going up the mountain in search of the wild ginseng. The man took me over to another display of people petitioning the gods of nature as they gathered their medicinal herbs from the mountain for healing their human ailments. The man thinks that the simmani still exist but not as devout mountain petitioners of former times.

Christmas Party at Samdong Boys Town

Every year the few people who regularly volunteer at the Samdong Boys Town (orphanage) organize a Christmas party for the boys. This year the Christmas party had probably as many volunteers as there were boys in the orphanage (66). The volunteers were to brings cookies, treats, presents, and games. One lady spent the whole previous evening and the morning of the party baking brownies and cookie-bars. She brought a whole backpack full of containers and a warm cake pan full of more: fig bars, apple bars, peanut butter choco-chip brownies, choco-chip brownies and lemon bars! Everyone contributed something AND was rewarded with a day of fun time with the kids.

Together the team of volunteers laid out a fantastic spread of food for the boys. After the food was laid out, the boys filed in and took their seats according to age - youngest in the front. To warm up the kids to all the activities, Christmas hats or antler head-pieces were randomly tossed out to the group followed by some small pieces of candy. Yep, the group was warming up! To kick off the program, some of the younger boys had prepared 2 songs to sing (not Christmas songs - Korea is only really starting to "celebrate" Christmas like westerners) to their foreign visitors and then all of us responded with 2 songs: Rudolph the Red-nosed Reindeer and Jingle Bells (the boys were given the printed words to sing along). Then those who volunteered for crafts stationed their tables. All told there were probably 16 little crafts and several of the boys were able to do 3 of them, which they proudly carried around the room. After the crafts got organized, the outdoor games were started and that's where the older boys quickly migrated to - many thought they were too old to do the little cutsie Christmas crafts although a couple of the larger boys did indulge.

Outside there were at least 10 little game activities set up, most based on dexterity and the ability to throw or balance. For boys who successfully accomplished the activity, a point ticket was awarded him and when he had enough points he could go to the prize table and redeem his points for a prize. All prizes were of different values but the one prize that many boys had their eyes on was a gigantic container of mixed popcorn treats. The boy who won it whooped around the yard holding the container high over his head with his friends dancing around him!

The weather was getting colder as the sun slipped low in the sky so the boys were rounded up and returned to the cafeteria where the festivities were to be concluded. When the boys were all sitting again in their assigned chairs, Santa came "Merry Christmassing" in, dressed in red and asking if any boys had been good that year. The younger boys seemed more familiar with the regular volunteers and seemed to know more English - they of couse shouted that they had been VERY good! Santa bellowed some more greetings and his little elf dressed in a red Chinese dressing gown came to help him distribute the gifts by age to all the boys in the orphanage. I'm not sure what the older boys got but the younger boys got giant coloring or picture books and a rubbery dinosaur ....... but the three little three-year-olds who didn't participate much (too young) seemed to have hung the moon when they got their little dinosaurs! The orphanage "mother" Lee Jong Won also was given a gift for appreciation of her years of love and care to the boys.

I spoke with Lee Jong Won afterwards and she has worked in this orphanage for 54 years! This particular orphanage was opened in 1952 by the American servicemen who organized a home for the huge number of homeless children they were always encountering. [Reported numbers of orphanages during/after the war were no less than 400; David Hyungbok Kim in his book Who Will Answer... suggests as many as 800.] The orphanage has moved 4 times since 1952 with the most recent move 4 years ago to its present site with new facilities. But actually, like all orphanages in Korea, Samdong Boys Town does not house "true" orphans - by definition, children without living parents or parent. The children here are victims of divorced parents who cannot take the child bearing another name or not having the blood of the other parent into a new marriage relationship; the children are victims of abuse, or from low-income families who cannot take care of their children's needs properly. When I asked how many "true" orphans there were at Boys Town, the orphanage mother didn't clearly answer my question. She said, "They are from families of divorce or abuse and so come here became they cannot stay in that situation, so they are all true orphans." Obviously the definition of "true orphan" varies based on perspective.

If the families would release the boys for adoption rather than put them in orphanages to grow up, the boys could have the much-needed family atmosphere. The orphanage system in Korea (like in many countries) is very controversial. Yes, it is better than children living on the streets, but in actuality, when parents just put their children in a home to grow up and do not sign for the children to be adopted into a family atmosphere and experience a real family through adoption (if Koreans are willing to adopt), then this system needs to be altered.

Some pictures of Boys Town back in the 1950s: 1st picture is a presentation ceremony, 2nd picture is of some boys enjoying the traditional ways of "skating" on wooden sleds propelled by strength via using wooden poles for pushing:

A Look at the Pines

The pines is one of the 싶장생 (10 eternal symbols according to ancient Chinese tradition), and as such are well-known in Korea for their strength and longevity. They are an acclaimed flora and are even marketing in pine-needle tea and carbonated drinks, used to flavor rice cakes and in other traditional culinary creations.

Korea has several kinds of pine (please forgive the Korean without translation - many of these simply translate as "pine" in my dictionary; it seems species and flora variation aren't normally entered):

2 needle type: 적송 (red pine), 해송 (black pine)
3 needle type: 리기다소나무 (?), 테에다 소나무 (?), 백송 (white pine)
5 needle type: 잣나무 (big cone or Korean white pine), 섬잣나무 (island white pine?), 스트로브잣나무 (strobe white pine)

And the pines have been typed according to their location within the provinces of Korea. Types vary by height, branch expanse, number of needles, straightness and bark.

The Namsan slopes have been designated as a Pine Habitat Conservation Zone, but Korean history is rich in protecting this tree in and around Seoul. As early as 1034 (the 1st year of King Jeongjong's reign) in the Goryeo Dynasty, the government placed a ban on felling pines in Seoul. In 1411 (the 11th year of the reign of King Taejong) in the Chosun Dynasty, the Annals of King Taejong record 3000 men from Gyeongido planting trees for 20 days. In 1467 King Sejo (13th year of his reign) prohibited unauthorized pine destruction and assigned mountain patrols on Namsan. In 1765 (the 41st reigning year of King Yeongjo) a decree was issued prohibiting the cutting of pines within a 24-mile radius of Seoul. Unfortunately for the long protected pine forests, during the Japanese occupation and the Korean War huge swaths of forest were decimated. The Seoul Metropolitan Government initiated a plan in 1991 to 2001 to conserve the pines on Namsan for future generations and so 18,300 pines were transported and planted on the mountain slopes.

Unfortunately, even though the Seoul Government is endeavoring to preserve the pines for the future, global warming is threatening their existence. According to environmental reports, the temperature in Seoul has risen 15 degrees Celsius since the Korean War. Seoul is a major heat island but the temperature outside of Seoul has risen probably 9 degrees Celsius since the war. The rising temperature is threatening the cooler-weather-loving pines. It is said that if the temp climbs 2 degrees Celsius more, the very existence of the pines at sea level will likely be defunct. Already there are fewer pines due to the environmental change while the warmer-weather-loving popular is thriving and spreading.

Pines have traditionally been so highly regarded that they were even lauded in the Korean National Anthem: "Eternally Namsan's pines stand like armor, through whatever tempest or storm, as our symbol of strength". With such associations through national music which entertwines the age-old concepts of pines perpetuating strength and longevity, the pine come to exemplify the strong spirit of the Korean people and their 5000-year history ... but will the pine perpetuate? and exemplify its strength and longevity continually on the Namsan slopes?

Windows to a Lost Culture

Every other Tuesday night the Royal Asiatic Society (RAS) Korea Branch holds a seminar which I strive never to miss. This past Tuesday night I had my first lecture on architecture. Peter Bartholomew is the President of the RAS, has lived in Korea more than 40 years, and is not only well-versed on the Chosun Dynasty architectural structures and their changes but is passionate about others realizing how history is depicted through the architectural lines. His lecture Windows to a Lost Culture: The Structure of Chosun Korea Interpreted Through Its Architecture was phenomenal and now when I see the hanok (traditional houses with tile roofs) and temples with their graceful curves and 90 degree angles, I can more appreciate the symmetry and strength of the nearly lost science of constructing buildings with harmony within its surroundings and reflecting the entire social structure of the age. As Peter puts it, the philosophies of the multi-disciplines of the Chosun Dynasty (1392-1910) are woven into all aspects of the structures and spatial relations, even in what is selected to go into the building itself. All is in harmony!


Even before a building could be constructed, the environmental surroundings must be taken into consideration as pungsujiri, the affects of wind and water in the geographic area and how that wind and water will affect the building itself is paramount. When this is done carefully, no wind will blow into the open doors chilling the house in the wintertime, no wind will blow rainwater onto the side of the house which is usually of mud or clay construction, and no rain will ever fall on the wooden maru (main floor) or splash on the huge structural beams causing water damage. The soil is tested for proper drainage and for previous flood circumstances and soil content itself. The more distant environment requires that the black turtle mountain (north) must be higher than the other mountains in the area and is a back or windbreak protection to the building site; the white tiger mountain (west) and blue dragon mountain (east) must be in place and offer encircling protection but not be overpowering to the northern slopes; finally, to the south is the very important red phoenix where the water flows. Positioned in the heart of such a portentious arrangement is the 잎수, the spot where the ki energy life force is concentrated. That is where the greatest building site is.

To clarify the major thought in contructing buildings during the Chosun Dynasty, buildings were to first have SIMPLICITY, a very important controling ideological factor of the Chosun Dynasty and Buddhism, although the Chosun Dynasty perhaps ironically (until you understand the history) placed much more emphasis on aestheticism than Buddhism did. This factor relates to MODESTY and the aversion to flaunting wealth. SPATIAL RELATIONSHIPS of buildings were a reflection of status (the patriarch occupying the best position), gender (the Chosun dynasty was patriarchal, patrilocal and patrilineal), generations (age) and function (family, servant, caretaker). Balance of SPACE between open/empty spaces and those filled, obvious inside the house as well as in the courtyards, was how the harmony of the construction was most exemplified within the natural environment it was set.


And therefore, the philosphies of the buildings showed:

architecture - unique floor heating system with flues (the longer the flue, potentially the higher the status of the owner of the house); choice of wood - only the finest with all structural pieces in one room having the same grain, coloration and flawless (without knots); all lines within the building were perpendicular to one another; the roof length and building height were taken into consideration to create an aspect of balance and harmony; the up-turned roof tile angles were a reflection of the graceful up-turned wings of the crane in flight.

furniture craftsmanship - furniture was of the finest design, woods, inlays, and fittings, all of which were chosen to reflect the style of the house or building itself.

art through paintings - the 갑창 (pictures beside the window screens), the window screens (which were carved to depict a Chinese character like 'harmony', 'happiness', 'wealth'); paintings of carp, mountains, scholarly materials to be hung on men's walls and paintings of butterflies, flowers, grapes and birds to be hung on women's walls (the majority of the male symbols were for depicting virility, manhood and erudition while symbols for women were for beckoning fertility). Even the porcelain and its quality, color, glaze translucence and overall shape was a reflection of status.

literature - under the eves were calligraphy paintings of philosophical passages reflecting the focus or attributes of the household; these were painted by the most skilled artists, signed by the artists and by witnessess testifying to the authenticity of the artwork and affirming the literary choice.

The present buildings that are recreations of those from the Chosun dynasty lack the same carefully considered height-length ratio, the up-turned swoop of the roof tiles is not as graceful, and the beams themselves are smaller as the heavy mud to pack up the first roof rafters from the second rafters, which add insulation and proper lift to the building, are no longer used; thus, the demands of straight stout logs are no longer necessary. With economy being a major thrust in building and not being aware of the fundamental harmony of buildings of the yesterage, those structures built to recreate the past fall short of their intent.

Elegance in Ink

Walking along Chongno Street more in the direction of Sinseoldong and Chegidong (where there's a concentration of older people and a lower amount of urban development) are street sellers, old people passing the time all bundled up, and even a rubber-squeegee name printer. The pedestrians are more leisurely in this area, old people typically with a lot of time on their hands, and they saunter past, many dawdling over fruit, lingering to chat with acquaintances, and also stopping to watch the rare artist in the area and his artistry that takes shape.

The local street artist paints words of fortune so people can hang these words in their homes and be recipients of attributes of what they seek. Many of these banner-like productions are sayings like "harmony", "wealth", and "happiness" painted in Chinese characters (some in Korean characters) and then decorated with stylistic animal and flower ornamentation. If a person wishes his or her name or even a saying painted, he or she just needs to tell the painter and the creation will be started.

This particular style of painting takes a lot of skill, calm hands and an artists vision of the outcome. The rubber squeegee, a rather unusual "paintbrush", is dipped in several inks - black, blue, red, green, and yellow - to different depths creating a layered look of color on the squeegee, and then the squeegee is rapidly applied to the paper is swishing artful arcs and lines. The outcome is swift and amazing. I've tried something similar but have no idea how the artist prevents the colors from bleeding like water colors do - these colors are certainly not oil or acrylic based as they dry quite rapidly. And shortly after being painted, they can be carefully scrolled and transported home for hanging on the wall to beckon the targeted fortune.

Orange Juice with Soymilk - Oh Yum

What goes on the shelf nowadays is mind-boggling, especially as the new items are marketed with vivid colors, the strong suggestion of 'health', and with labels obviously portraying fruits and vegies and other health-favorable items. One brand of soymilk now is sold with nuts (at least walnuts are on the label); another brand of soymilk and milk itself is sold in banana, strawberry, chocolate and coffee flavors; but when I happened across the fruit juice section in a convenience store and saw "orange juice with soymilk", I thought that marketing had stretched beyond the unpalatable in mixing two drinks that seem to me to be so uncomplimentary: an acidic fruit drink with a creamy bean in liquid format!

As yet, I have seen no one drinking this perhaps superior health drink [surely everyone knows that orange juice and soymilk are both body health builders!!] but then I only noticed it in the market for the first time yesterday. Somehow I don't think this will be an export item any time soon .... but as a participant observer I suppose I should give it a try and give my honest opinion rather than base my judgments on pure nutritional ethnocentrism.