Dating back almost 1700 years, the Baekje Kingdom at its height was the center of arts and culture on the Korean peninsula and beyond.
About the Baekje Kingdom
Baekje
(18 BC - 660 AD) was one of the Three Kingdoms of Korea—along with Goguryeo (37
BC - 668 AD) and Silla (57 BC - 935 AD)—and its people were descendants of
Buyeo tribes people of Manchuria. Baekje tribes migrated southward to what is
now Seoul where the Baekje leaders set up a capital, asserting control over the
local tribes people and beating back pressure from the northern kingdom of
Goguryeo.
Baekje
flourished in the 4th century, trading with Japan and the Chinese
kingdom of Chin. Goguryeo then forced Baekje south from Seoul to Ungjin (now
Kongju) in 475, so for the next 63 years Ungjin became the Baekje capital. Ungjin
was near water—the Geum or “Brocade” River—and well defended by the Kongsan
fortress, but it was too far from the sea and too surrounded by mountains to
allow easy communication with the outside world.
Click to enlarge |
King
Song-wang (ruling 523 – 553) moved the capital downstream to Sabi (now Buyeo)
to a place on the Geum River now known specifically as Paengma or “White Horse”
(the name explained later). Sabi was nearer the sea, had a large, rich farming
area, and also had the nearby riverside Sabi fortress at Puso-san.
Cultural
Sharing during the Baekje Kingdom
Baekje
made many contributions to the Japanese culture in the 6th century—most
obviously, the teachings of Buddha and Buddha temple architecture, some of
which can be still seen near Nara, Japan, at the Horyuji Temple (the world’s
oldest wooden building).
Baekje
also benefited from the direct importation of Chinese culture. The Baekje upper
class knew the Confucian classics, Chinese medicine, and divination.
Baekje
artifacts speak of a society that was interactive with a wide range of tribes
people and cultural interactions. Baekje tombs remain distinct from other tombs
of contemporary kingdoms. Burial urns now housed in the Buyeo National Museum
hark back to tribal culture, while Buddhist temple objects and figures testify
to a strong religious flavor and the import, assimilation and development of
Buddhism. The tombs give some indication of the society and economy—elite clans
which evolved from tribal holdovers as well as elaborate ranks and grades of
salary for officials and military leaders (as can be seen through Chinese
imports used by military elites). Farmers paid taxes in silk and rice. In
battles, prisoners were taken as slaves.
The
Demise of Baekje
Baekje
came to an end in 660 when it was overcome by combined forces from T’ang China
and the neighboring Silla Kingdom, which was based in Gyeongju. The
interference of Chinese forces came after a long hiatus (220 – 589 AD) during
which China had been fragmented into many small kingdoms. Prior to 220 the Han
dynasty had claimed large parts of northern Korea (the Lolong colony) but the
fall of Han allowed the Koreans (or proto-Koreans) to develop their own
kingdoms—Goguryeo, Silla and Baekje. In the early 600’s, China was reunified by
the Sui (581 – 618 AD) and then the T’ang (618 – 907 AD). T’ang, which was the
greatest empire the world had seen, naturally aimed to recapture the glories of
the long-gone Han empire, and gaining control over Korea was part of this
design.
Overcoming
one of the Three Kingdoms in the Korean peninsula was not so easy as the
kingdoms were adept at alliance politics, manipulating each other and foreigners
in China and Japan. Koguryeo in particular was armed, and it beat back the
repeated Sui and T’ang invasions in Manchuria. Since force was ineffective, the
T’ang government combined forces and political manipulation with the Silla
kingdom, knowing that Silla and Baekje were at odds. T’ang struck an alliance
with Silla, and their combined forces destroyed Baekje in 660 AD.
Modern
Buyeo Reveals the Denouement in 660 AD
The
T’ang forces, purportedly numbering 130,000, approached Sabi from the north.
The commanding general, Su Ting-fang, stopped when he reached the river facing
the Sabi fortress on Puso-san. The diviners said that he couldn’t cross the
river until he got rid of the river dragon which protected the Sabi fortress.
Knowing that dragons were pushovers for white horses, General Su went fishing
using the head of a white horse for bait. As the story goes, he lured the
dragon to the surface, killed it, and then led the army across the river to
assault the Baekje capital. Another version of the story is that a storm caused by the protective dragon raged, and so Su Ting-fang using the head of a white horse which dragons have a special attraction to, fished for the dragon amidst thunder and lightning and was able to lure and capture the live dragon, who, in exchange for its life, stilled the storm so the general's army could safely cross the river.
The
Chinese were not alone in their assault. Kim Yusin, the great Silla general,
had fought his way through the Baekje army led by General Kyebaek (see statue
in Buyeo) and had laid siege to Sabi fortress all around the south wall. The
Chinese assault across the Geum river and directly into the fortress left the
Baekje people nowhere to flee. 3,000 court women unable to flee and preferring
suicide to being taken captive by the horny hordes flung themselves over a
cliff, now called the Nakhwa-am or “Falling Flowers Cliff”. Though King Uija managed to get away to
Ungjin (Kongju), his kingdom was crushed.
Mural on one of the walls of the Goran-sa. The mural faces the healing medicinal waters of Goran-sa. |
Buyeo Town
The name Buyeo comes from the ancestral home of the Baekje
people in Manchuria, and for a while it was called Nam-Buyeo or “South Buyeo”,
but it is universally known as Baekje, the “Hundred Tribes”.
Cheongnim-sa was once an elaborate temple, but now all that
exists is a site marked in downtown Buyeo and two important stone relics—a
weathered stone Buddha (National Treasure #108) and the five-storied stone
Baekje Pagoda (National Treasure #9), which is only one of two pagodas that have
survived since the Three Kingdoms period. Su Ting-fang added insult to injury
when he carved the story of his victory over Baekje on the base of the pagoda,
hence the “Pacifying Baekje Pagoda” name which is sometimes attached to it. The
shame of this inscription was such that the survivors buried the pagoda and it
lay buried—and therefore better preserved—at Mireuk-sa some kilometers away
until the 1890’s.
The five-storied stone Baekje pagoda (National Treasure #9), sometimes shamefully known as the "Pacifying Baekje Pagoda". |
Strangely, this Buddha looks very much like the Easter Island moai at Ahu Tahai ... |
Puso-san has a hiking road from the Baekje museum that goes
up the mountain and into the forest on what used to be the Sabi fortress. At
the top of Puso-san is Yeongil-lu (“Greeting-the-sun” Pavillion) and the
Songweol-lu (“Seeing-off-the-setting-moon” Pavillion), and the Nakhwa-am
(“Falling Flowers Rock”).
One of the pavillions at the top of Nakhwa-am. |
Goran-sa is the "Korean Orchid" temple below the Nakhwa-am near the water’s
edge. Its name is derived from the Gorancho plant (Crypsinus hastatus), which is something like an
orchid and which grows in profusion near the adjacent spring of medicinal
water. This spring is where the Baekje kings got their drinking water, and the
temple site was constructed to commemorate the “Falling Flowers” of Nakhwa-am. According to legend, the king enjoyed drinking water from Goran-sa and sent someone to fetch his mineral water every day. Before drinking, court ladies floated leaves on the water to prove it came from the temple. Legend also has it that if a person drinks a cup of Goran mineral water, he or she will become three years younger. [It didn't work. Several of us tried it.]
For those interested in a boat ride on the Geum “Brocade” River,
the boat will take passengers past the Choryong-dae, or “Fishing-for-the-Dragon
Terrace”) where Su Ting-fang is said to have caught the dragon.
King Munyeong’s Tomb in Kongju
Kongju, capital of Baekje from 475 to 538 AD, lies upstream
from Buyeo on the “Brocade” River. As the Middletons point out in their Some Korean Journeys (RAS, 1975), Kongju
has twice had its status as capital taken away—it lost out to Buyeo in 538 and
then to Daejeon in 1931 under the Japanese Government-General.
Kongju also has a mountain (Kongsan) on the river, a
fortress larger than the one in Buyeo on the mountain (Kongsan-seong), a
Chinese connection (the Ming helped fight Hideyoshi’s Japanese invaders here in
the 1590’s), a set of royal tombs, and a branch of the National Museum.
dragon on the tilework in King Munyeong's tomb |
fanciful tilework inside King Munyeong's cave |
Kongju’s greatest treasure is the Baekje tomb of King
Munyeong (also spelled Muryeong) and who ruled 501 – 523 AD. Munyeong’s tomb is
in the tomb complex near the river. Over the centuries the other tombs were
picked clean by thieves and scrofulous antique dealers, but Munyeong’s tomb
remained undiscovered until, by accident, government restorers happened on it
while working on a nearby grave in 1971. Excavations revealed an undisturbed
Baekje royal tomb, guarded in the entry chamber by a little stone pig and
containing hundreds of jewels, decorations, pots, and a very diverse assortment
of artifacts. Discovery of the tomb was to Korea what the discovery of
Tuthankhamen’s tomb was to Egypt, or like the discovery of Ch’in Huang’ti’s
terra cotta army was to China.
Outstanding among the tomb objects is Munyeong’s gold crown
ornament, in a flame-shaped pattern hung with gold decorations and sewn,
apparently onto a silk cap which did not survive the centuries. In the Kongju National
Museum along with the guardian pig and the crown ornaments, are bronze mirrors,
gold earrings, jade, hairpins, pots, headrests, figurines, and decorated bricks
and roof tiles. Where Baekje studies prior to that time had relied on the likes
of Su Ting-fang’s carved account on the Baekje Pagoda in Buyeo, Munyeong’s tomb
opened up new vistas for comparisons and studies of the transmission of culture
among the kingdoms and peoples of East Asia. Until recently, visitors could
enter the now emptied tomb but which has intricately designed tile work;
however, now that a replica of the tomb has been included in a nearby viewing
room, the tomb, having survived centuries is being preserved and removed from
the influx of visitors so that it can continue to survive and breathe the
presence of the past to the present and future generations.
Imagery of King Munyeong wearing his Baekje crown ornaments. |
The mythical, mystical creature - the guardian pig of King Munyeong's tomb |
Royal Asiatic Society Korea Branch detailed printout (take the tour of Buyeo and Kongju)
Visit Korea. "Gongju: The Glory of Baekje Lives On" by Robert Koehler. June 27, 2008.
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