Nurimaru APEC House

On Dongbaek Island, a promontory of land between Korea’s most famous beach—Haeundae Beach—and the Pusan Yachting Center, the Nurimaru APEC House stands. From the windows overlooking Suyeongnam Bay one can see Korea’s longest marine bridge of 7.42km long—Gwangan Bridge—off to the right (west). The opposite shoreline has the scenic Igidae Coastal Walkway which ends at the Oryuk Islands (literally “5 or 6 islands” as the number of islands visible is based on the direction from which one sees them); these islands and shoreline offer a spectacular view from Haeundae Beach or this promontory of land where the new APEC House stands.  Then gazing out over the East Sea on approximately 60 days of the year one can see the distant Tsushima Island with the naked eye. (Seeing the island is thought to be a mirage when temperature and refraction of light are right.) Further to the east is the famous scenic area Dalmaji Hill, known for its moon viewing. Thus was the setting for the 13^th APEC Economic Leader’s Meeting in 2005.

The Nurimaru APEC House was built for the sole purpose of holding the meeting. By building the house exclusive for the reception of state dignitaries, Korea endeavored to show its wealth and ability to host on a magnificent scale. The APEC House now functions as a museum to show how well Korea hosted the conference. Host countries for previous meetings were:

1993 – Seattle, USA
1994 – Bogor, Indonesia
1995 – Osaka, Japan
1996 – Manila, Philippines
1997 – Vancouver, Canada
1998 – Kuala Lumur, Malaysia
1999 – Auckland, New Zealand
2000 – Bandar Seri Begawan, Brunei Darussalam2001 – Shanghai, China
2002 – Los Cabos, Mexico
2003 – Bangkok, Thailand
2004 – Santiago, Chile
2005 – Busan, (South) Korea …. finally!

What is the APEC?

Asia-Pacific Economic Cooperation (APEC) was originally inaugurated in Canberra, Australia, as a ministerial meeting for 12 member economies including Korea. The purpose of the meeting was for realizing sustainable economic development and common prosperity, most particularly about trade and investments. Since 1993, the APEC Economic Leaders’ Meeting has been held annually, and in 2005, it had grown to include 21 member economies.

The origins of APEC, however, can be traced back to events involving the end of the Cold War and the accelerated integration of the EU in the late 1980s which promoted regionalism. Common consent that government-level cooperation was required to enlarge cooperation among non-governmental organizations in the Asia-Pacific region, such as PECC and PBEC, led to the establishment of APEC in 1989.

Upon entering one is greeted with a rich symbol of ancient Korea—a lacquer ware and mother-of-pearl inlay of the 십장생 (the 10 natural symbols for longevity) but actually in this picture there are 12 symbols of longevity—the sun, cloud, mountain, rock, water, crane, deer, turtle, pine tree, herb of eternal youth, bamboo, and the mythical peach. There are actually 13 symbols (the missing item is the mushroom of immortality) but the translation for the collection of symbols is “10” as a few of them like the peach, the mushroom, herb of eternal youth and the bamboo most frequently get switched out. I believe the message by presenting the 십장생 was that Korea was invoking their ancient history, concepts of nature in a modern techno world, and conjuring concepts of long-lasting durability.

The 2^nd 2005 APEC Leader's Meeting was held in this room. The interior was designed as a round table, with every member clearly seeing all other members and symbolizing equality for all. Members were to sit, however, in designated chairs in the round-table design while the media was relegated to viewing rooms above where whisperings, rustling of papers and cell phone distractions would cause no interference whatsoever to the members below. As far as beauty of design goes, the ceiling was a motif from the famed Seokguram Grotto, and the walls were decorated with natural silk thought to emphasize traditional Korean beauty.

for the commemorative photo which included all the participating members of the meeting, I was amused to see a small platform with name placards affixed to designate where each member of the conference was to stand for the picture. What amused me was the thoughtful political considerations employed in assigning the photo designations. Most interestingly, the Korean representative stood exactly in the front row and middle just as heads of organizations position themselves with all their "family members" gathered around. The US representative, Bush, also had center-stage although in the back row. Hmmm, it would be very interesting to give political considerations about why each person representing their respective countries got assigned their particular positions!

Looking out to sea, as I'm sure the representatives often did during the conference, my friend and I saw two traditional 해녀, sea diving women, with their orange float balls and nets of abalone and other sea catches. They were swimming just beyond the rocks below the APEC House. If the APEC representatives got the same sight, then not only were they graced with a rich view of natural scenery, but also a rare snippet of traditional society now going extinct.

Mermaid on Haeundae Beach

The Legend of Princess Hwangok

The placard that gives a synopsis about the mermaid is a cultural comparison to another famous mermaid statue. 

I’m always perplexed why a culture would want to compare their own culture to another to the extent that Korea does; it’s almost like Koreans want to be seen as famous, as credible and as historically great as other cultures, but in their comparisons, they come across as having an inferiority complex. And by comparing themselves to something so famous, they put themselves into second-class citizen situations. Korea is unique with a rich history all its own, so the cultural marketing should be to reflect the peculiar differences in Korea to make people want to see and experience something original, exotic, and other-worldly, not something that’s an imitation of something Western of all things. Korea is an Eastern society (which I find very fascinating in its rich Eastern-Western differences), and therefore, with its distinct characteristics, it can market those singular attributes and be very viable in doing so!

Anyway, the mermaid statue is a representation of Sea Princess Hwangok (Topaz), who gazes into the open sea from the point of Dongbaekseom Island off to the west of Haeundae Beach. The sea princess came from the land of Naranda, a mythical sea kingdom of mermaids and tritons, to marry King Eunhye of Mugung, another legendary kingdom. However, estranged from her beloved Naranda where mermaids danced in the waves and dove deep below for pearls and shells, Sea Princess Hwangok missed her home-sea and so the waxing of every moon when her heart was at its heart-breaking fullest, the princess would sit on a rock and mourn the loss of her homeland while clutching a topaz bead given to her by her mother-in-law.

Right after I came to Korea (April 1991) a bunch of friends
and I visited the mourning Sea Princess Hwangok.

14 years after sitting on the shoulders of Sea Princess Hwangok I return to see her. She still eternally mourns the loss of her sea kingdom, but now she is sadder than ever as even visitors are not allowed to go near her mourning presence.

In reference to the legend, the mermaid princess was installed on the rocky shore of Dongbaek Island in 1974. However, after a particularly powerful typhoon in 1987, the statue was destroyed although the upper body was recovered and now is kept in the Busan Museum. Then in 1989 the 2.5m bronze replacement weighing 4 tons was installed on the escarpment, where she still sits in mournful silence clutching her topaz bead.

Walking Dalmaji Hill, Pusan

Dalmaji Hill is a leisurely 3-hour walking course that roughly starts at Haeundae Beach and meanders all the way to the next beach to the north, the beautiful and still somewhat secluded Songjeong Beach. There are plans in the making for the subway to extend all the say to Songjeong Beach and the artsy coffee shops springing up in that town will be extensively patronized. The beach area, in anticipation of the coming subway, is already under construction. One shop I found intensely amusing there was a two-floor cat supply shop stuffed with tons of cat towers, cat carriers and cat supplies. A person shopping in Songjeong, however, would absolutely have to have a car, so I'm wondering why such a large shop can successfully operate in the at-present rather small-town area.

a modern hotel but still using some of the architectural lines of the traditional tile roof

the hotel is hosting a conference and for the opening ceremony,  real flower arrangement displays
are prepared to demonstrate the high status of the conference

a rather unusual Zen-style tree being stylistically "sculptured"

another view of the "sculptured" tree

Dalmaji Hill is an artsy place, or rather, a street of art. Along the 15-curved winding road lined with cherry blossoms and pine trees, tasteful coffee and tea shops, art boutiques, fine hotels with grassy patios and Confucian-styled gardens line the snaking road. The road is a pleasing escape from the typical metal and glass modern-day structures as many of the buildings are creative in experimental architecture designs. Dalmaji Hill was considered one of the Eight Wonders of Korea from ancient times, and this reputation of scenic beauty—although in a modern sense—remains today.

Songjeong Beach, which still has very much of a small town feeling
(just wait until the subway line is completed ...)

Dalmaji Hill was and still is much lauded for its grandeur of fading sunsets and striking moonrises. On the hill is a trail called Moontan Road. Moontan basically means “absorbing the moonlight” and following the trail among the pine trees and moonbeams at night, one can feel soothing peace and at harmony with the natural environment.

a pavilion built out over the rocks with the sea lapping at its base;
popular for sunset and moon viewings

Gwangalli Beach, Pusan

Gwangalli Beach is particularly known for its fine sand and the conveniences of a yacht club where yachting excursions, banana boat experiences, jet skis and other water fun experiences can be enjoyed.

Near the yacht club is a raw fish market for sushi-enthusiasts.  The waterfront is a line-up of cafes and coffee shops, giving Gwangalli Beach the nickname of Café Town. The cafes and coffee shops do a thriving business at night when Korea’s longest marine bridge, the Gwangan Bridge, is displayed in an artistic display of dancing and colorful lights romantically viewed from the Gwangalli Beach waterfront. The scene is particularly attractive for couples, but residents and tourists also flock to the evening light show.

unfortunately, my night-time shots were pathetic, so I borrowed a picture of
Gwangalli Bridge during the firework festival. source

During the Busan International Fireworks Festival, taking place every October, the whole Gwangalli Beach is packed. Cafes, coffee shops and restaurants are at their busiest, but for the want-to-be-fireworks viewer, tables must be arranged in advanced and at costly setbacks. During the festival, however, fireworks are intertwined with amazing high-tech laster light show effects. Over a million spectators are guestimated for this highly popular event every year.

RAS 2014 Book Fair

Every summer the Royal Asiatic Society Korea Branch hosts a party for all its paid members. The party has traditionally been held alternately at the British embassy and the American embassy, and this is the year for the American embassy to be the host. However, the US has just made some new policies in regard to its embassy: no more parties at the embassy. The security has been getting tighter and tighter at the embassy so this really didn't come so much as a surprise, but it does seem rather odd that the US embassy didn't inform the RASKB office till the RASKB contacted them to settle on a date for the annual RASKB garden party. With that venue no longer a possibility, the RASKB asked the British embassy if they can now impose on the good will of the British for an annual party ... and we were graciously welcomed. So once again, we're back at the British embassy and their beautifully landscaped garden.

Of course the garden party is an event for selling books on Korea, and members can get a sizable discount if book purchases are made during the garden party. 

The book sale lasts through the entire party, and after words from the British ambassador, there is typically some kind of traditional music. This year we had pansori singers as well as some instrumentalists. Brother Anthony, the president of the RASKB, was even encouraged to dance to some of the traditional beats. (Unfortunately, I missed the photo moments.)

And no garden party is a party without food, and this year there was tons of simple finger foods elegantly displayed. An amazing selection eye-tasty as well as gustatory tasty variety!

grapefruit and orange flavored makgeolli - Doesn't sound too appealing but some people really liked them.